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Hard to pull Choke:
- Thread starter PlaidMan
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Don Elliott
Obi Wan
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Tom in New England went through this ordeal a few months ago. Check the archives.
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I had that problem after I rebuilt my HS6's. Not sure what you have.
Here was the fix for me: The problem was that when I tightened the cinch screw onto the choke cable under the carbs, I hadn't first taken up the slack in the return springs. If you don't first take up the slack, the force to pull the linkage all the way up, and then to drop the jet assembly, was too great.
I hope that makes sense.
Here was the fix for me: The problem was that when I tightened the cinch screw onto the choke cable under the carbs, I hadn't first taken up the slack in the return springs. If you don't first take up the slack, the force to pull the linkage all the way up, and then to drop the jet assembly, was too great.
I hope that makes sense.
G
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PlaidMan said:
More importantly, where did you get the Cuban food?
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If you can focus your eyes yet after that Mojito ...
Here's what I did to make my choke action work smoothly:
Replaced bent needle in front carb (H6)
Replaced all throttle linkage
Rebuilt jet assemblies (and lubed jets)
Replaced choke cable (was slightly kinked inside)
Moved jet connector linkage forks to engine side
Reset fast idle cam (was actually preventing movement)
Remember - the first 1/2" or so of choke cable pull should only activate the fast idle cam. Once that's set, the rest of the choke "pull" should slowly drop the jets.
I had to remove lots of slop and "lost action" in the jet assembly and throttle linkages.
What a pleasure to have a working "choke" on the car.
Good luck!
Tom
Here's what I did to make my choke action work smoothly:
Replaced bent needle in front carb (H6)
Replaced all throttle linkage
Rebuilt jet assemblies (and lubed jets)
Replaced choke cable (was slightly kinked inside)
Moved jet connector linkage forks to engine side
Reset fast idle cam (was actually preventing movement)
Remember - the first 1/2" or so of choke cable pull should only activate the fast idle cam. Once that's set, the rest of the choke "pull" should slowly drop the jets.
I had to remove lots of slop and "lost action" in the jet assembly and throttle linkages.
What a pleasure to have a working "choke" on the car.
Good luck!
Tom
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PS - Just realized you say your jets are hard to move (and not that your choke is hard to move).
If you just rebuilt the carbs, did you use cork seals or "rubber" o-rings in the jet assemblies?
Edit: must be too early for me ... the topic is "Hard to pull Choke:", but the first post says "jets are hard to move". So are the jets only hard to move when using the choke? Or hard to move when moved by hand w/o using the choke? Is the choke smooth and easy to pull when disconnected from the carbs?
T.
If you just rebuilt the carbs, did you use cork seals or "rubber" o-rings in the jet assemblies?
Edit: must be too early for me ... the topic is "Hard to pull Choke:", but the first post says "jets are hard to move". So are the jets only hard to move when using the choke? Or hard to move when moved by hand w/o using the choke? Is the choke smooth and easy to pull when disconnected from the carbs?
T.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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There's a great Cuban place in Manhattan Beach :
https://www.versaillescuban.com/locations.html
Some quick suggestions on the carbs :
1) New jets need to be polished. They originally came polished so the books don't mention this step, but new ones are too rough, causing both stiff operation and short seal life.
2) The TR3 linkage goes together in a strange fashion. The link between the two carbs goes entirely behind the levers, not straddling them. Geo Hahn posted a nice scan in a previous thread
TR3 Choke cable driving me crazy
3) Some people are tempted to stretch the spring inside the jet housing, which is a strict no-no. If anyone but you has had them apart, I'd replace that spring. While you're there make sure there is one and only one seal at each end, and that the little brass cup washers are turned the right way to cup the seals.
4) The pivots in the choke linkage are supposed to be loose and floppy. If you're replaced any of the pins with bolts, be sure to leave them loose. (Better yet, put the proper pins in there. Bolt threads will act like a file and wear away the pivot points.)
5) Some aftermarket cables just don't work very well, especially the ones with solid centers instead of stranded.
6) If the (unmodified) return springs will pull the jets back into position against the mixture nut, then likely the jet motion itself is not the problem. But obviously, it's important that they do pull the jets back up, every time, or you're going to be driving around with the mixture way too rich.
https://www.versaillescuban.com/locations.html
Some quick suggestions on the carbs :
1) New jets need to be polished. They originally came polished so the books don't mention this step, but new ones are too rough, causing both stiff operation and short seal life.
2) The TR3 linkage goes together in a strange fashion. The link between the two carbs goes entirely behind the levers, not straddling them. Geo Hahn posted a nice scan in a previous thread
TR3 Choke cable driving me crazy
3) Some people are tempted to stretch the spring inside the jet housing, which is a strict no-no. If anyone but you has had them apart, I'd replace that spring. While you're there make sure there is one and only one seal at each end, and that the little brass cup washers are turned the right way to cup the seals.
4) The pivots in the choke linkage are supposed to be loose and floppy. If you're replaced any of the pins with bolts, be sure to leave them loose. (Better yet, put the proper pins in there. Bolt threads will act like a file and wear away the pivot points.)
5) Some aftermarket cables just don't work very well, especially the ones with solid centers instead of stranded.
6) If the (unmodified) return springs will pull the jets back into position against the mixture nut, then likely the jet motion itself is not the problem. But obviously, it's important that they do pull the jets back up, every time, or you're going to be driving around with the mixture way too rich.
Thanks for the replies.Bill,my first time at this restaurant, was treated to a free meal by the guys at Cajun Customs of which two of them are of Honduran descent, they could talk the talk with the waitress, really made me feel like I was on vacation. I ordered one of the combo platters,awesome,IMO(www.cafehabanacity.com). NutmegCT, the jets are hard to move by hand fully disconnected from the linkages. The choke cable moves freely by itself. I used cork seals that came in the kit from Moss. I believe they are the problem. I did not polish the jets. What is a good way to do that? Randall, I'll follow those suggestions you posted especially the part about the link between the carbs. Thanks again everyone, Charlie
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I used a buffing wheel on my bench grinder and jeweler's rouge, since I happened to have them on hand.PlaidMan said:
https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46261
(The rouge also came from HF, but doesn't seem to be listed on their website.)
However, I think you could do an adequate job with toothpaste and your fingers, or brass polish (eg Brasso but not Tarn-X) from the grocery store. The smoother (shinier) you get the outside of the jets, the easier they will slide through the seals and the longer the seals will last.
Of course no matter what you use, be sure the jet is perfectly clean of all abrasive before reinstalling. I used a wooden Q-tip shaft to clean inside, so no chance of damaging the metering bore. And if you happen to have some "dry moly" spray on hand, that wouldn't hurt either.