• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

handy ramps

AweMan said:
Quote from previous post
Thirdly, If I make myself one I will anchor it to the floor.
Ah! I glazed over that section. Makes sense to me now. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif
 
*Smile* I find that sometimes even I don`t read what I read.
Usualy when it comes {especialy to reading directions} it takes multiple attempts to finally sink in my brain Hahahahaha

Believe me I do have Moments to my maddness.

Even if I am the only one that knows what they are! Hahahahah
 
AweMan said:
*Smile* I find that sometimes even I don`t read what I read.
Usualy when it comes {especialy to reading directions} it takes multiple attempts to finally sink in my brain Hahahahaha

Believe me I do have Moments to my maddness.

Even if I am the only one that knows what they are! Hahahahah

You are not alone Kerry
 
Willie:

Not to mention .... the older you get the less you retain.
I wonder if I could stand the crawling around on the ground it would take to build a set of ramps anymore. Oh id get er done, but may take a good long while hahahaha. Mabe I could teach Drew how to weld! I`m sure he could run some 7018 or 7024 stick HUH?
Then I could just cut parts and supervise hehehehehehe.

My M.I.G. is too little to do anything structural like I would want those ramps to be.

Thinking I might buy a new a/c d/c Stick/T.I.G. combo. The one I want will be well over $4,000.00 by the time im finished outfitting it. Bottles, water cooler, torch, cables rod holder and gnd clamp, collets, colet bodies, cups, tungsten assortment, regulator ETC.
I would eventualy like to start a casting repair buissness Cast Iron, Aluminum and Magnesium.
There I go .... on and on and ..... !
 
I made a welding table out of some steel shelving I had that was 2'x4' and made it about 30" tall I can stand or sit while I weld
 
Kerry, doing it the way you are thinking of would mean the ramps would need to be about 25' long depending of course on how high off the ground you want to build it
 
Willie:
Yea roughly 15'- 25'. I`v gotten the car {TR} on a fairly high trailer with 10' ramps but it was slightly dragging the underside so I know for a fact the ramps will have to be at least 15'.

I`m thinking for me, I can`t reach above my head very good anymore, so I might want to be just high enough off of the ground so I can crawl under and lay on my back.

Im not to keen on sittin on my buttox either. I can barely ride the 100 or so miles to Grandmas house hahaha. But that`s sittin for two hours in one place where as turning wrenches will be more of an up and down situation.

I`ll have to measure and see if I can go high enough in my garage to accomodate a small stool of some sort.

It`s about sixes as of now which way I might go tho.
BTW. my garage is 40' deep and 24' wide I think the cieling is at or near 10'
 
[/quote I made a welding table out of some steel shelving I had that was 2'x4' and made it about 30" tall I can stand or sit while I weld [/quote

Willie:
I prefer sittin, anytime I can where welding is concerned.
the key to sucess is comfort. Especialy something to lean on hahahahaha. And two handed torch control too!! *SMILE*

Oh .... and don`t forget a good clean lense in yer hood.

I`v never liked to weld one handed freehand with nothin but air to lean on much. {it`s what was required to do the P.V. {Pressure Vessle} cert. 1/8 ER-9018. Three positions, vertical up, overhead, and horizontal. All stringer beads, no weave beads allowd. 1 1/2 boiler plate 45 degree bevel/w 2"x8"x1/4" backup or some call it a chill strip. Xrayed, and bend test. No inclusions, no perosity, no undercut on the caps, no slag entrapment allowed, no break away from the chill strip. I did that test 16 times, once each year, never had to do a retest!
The Aircraft Cert. was much more diffacult.
 
Kerry -- I took a welding class last year, covered torch and stick, with a bit of MIG. Don't have much experience, but at least I've heard the basics once. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

In all seriousness, you ever need help or a helper, let me know. I'd love to learn more from someone with real experience. I've got enough skill and knowledge now to be truly dangerous, and there is some welding work to be done on the Tunebug one of these days.
 
Drew:
I surly will keep you in mind, although you might have to fight my boys for a turn on the stinger hahahaha. Either that or referee them! But then again it seems lately when I have something other than working on the car or welding I need their help with, they have somewhere to go and something that needs doing.
 
That's the way with kids (of pretty much all ages). Interested when the work is fun, but when the work is work... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
beaulieu said:
...how would you improve on this idea?...

Look at a standard roof truss, and observe the difference in triangulation when compared to these units.

The taller you go, the more unstable side to side things become. Especially when it's two units acting seperately. As shown in the pictures, you'd be unpleasantly surprised at how easily the cars can be knocked over. Btdt. Tie the two sides together. You can still make it adjustable with slip joints and pipe sections.
 
The taller you go, the more unstable side to side things become. Especially when it's two units acting seperately. As shown in the pictures, you'd be unpleasantly surprised at how easily the cars can be knocked over. Btdt. Tie the two sides together. You can still make it adjustable with slip joints and pipe sections. [/quote]

If you look closely at the pics it looks to be tied together where you jack the ramp up but personaly I would tie the front and the back together also
 
If I build it, it wouldn`t be portable in any sense if the word IT WOULD BE ANCHORED TO MY GARAGE FLOOR! AND TIED TOGETHER BOTH FRONT AND REAR {boxed}. The only movable parts will be the ramps. To allow for more room to park other vehicles closer to it.
BTW .... 2x2x1/8 angel is OUT of the question!
I WOULD USE 3X3X1/4 OR EVEN 3/16 I DON`T WANT ANY CARS FALLING ON ME ANYTIME SOON!
 
I will be using 2x2x3/16 which I think should be substantial enough for the max weight I want to use them for (a midget and a mini)and not both at the same time.lol
 
Structure integrity would come from the upright and cross bracing of the boxed sections, Given enough bracing, even 2x2x1/16 would work. However, I intend to make storage space out of the boxed sections, therefore excessive bracing would be a hinderance for my purposes. It`s a fine line where material size and design fit together. I may even go to square and/or rectangular tubing for some of the structure. Once you start using your "ramps" you should be able to determine where aditional stregnth might be needed and add it accordingly. That bieng said, I would aproach the first few times using the ramps with caution. If something looks weak or distorted, by all means shore that section up.
 
I have some square tubing left over from an abandoned locost project that I was going to use for the tread section and was thinking about putting some expanded metal on those also as I am always dropping stuff lol
 
Back
Top