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%*!##! Handbrake part two

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So much for using the TRF Blue book as a source. And it was a year ago that I did this so lots of brain cells have fallen out since. I just went out and checked.......even though the drums are off the car. It is a push to release. To set it, I just pull the handle up and it clicks into one of the notches. To release it, I push the button and hold it in while lowering the handle. So the rod must go into the top hole of DR5 so a push pivots the bottom away from the engagement? Better yet.....I'll quote Haynes....."reassembly is the opposite of assembly" :wall:
 
Nope. np hole for positive traction!!

A lame design, at best.
Edit: Just confirming, there is no hole for the spring
arm to lock into.

I gave some thought to drilling a hole and installing
200# braided fishing leader ro pull the ratchet arms
away from the teeth.

I have a functional hand brake now - it just will not lock
into position. Life ain't perfect and I live in the middle of nowhere!!

D
 
Ray's pic shows how it needs to go back together - the loop on the rod goes 'over' the cam piece (DR5).
 
Bobby- go to your room an stand
in the corner for 45 minute. Contemplate
the lost work day you caused Dale.

Then you are welcome back into BCF but
not before!!

d
 
I find it so difficult to conceive that folks actually
purchased new TR6s and drove them further than the
entrance to the dealer's lot before they broke down.
Not to downgrade the hobbiest but these Triumphs should
never been sold to the public. Too expensive to maintain/repair.
Too unreliable, too prone to breakdowns.

I have never owned such a $$ cost intensive, maintenance
prone vehicle, breakdown prone vehicle in my life. And
remenber, I owned a Lotus Europa.

My goodness, I've lowered my cost to $4,000. per mile cost
from $7,000 per mile. $4,000 frigging dollars to drive around
the block. I'm just venting today at the almost $50,000. this
POS car has cost me and I do not even have a fully functional
hand break..

Does it ever end and cost like $1.25 per mile driven?
Or does it remain at $$ tens of thousands per year for a few hundred
miles driven?

dale in the dumps today!!
 
Well, it probably helps that most people don't buy them as unsuccessfully assembled kits !
 
Dale try to put the handbrake deal aside for awhile. You've got the most important function, the ability to help stop the car.
As far as rolling from a parking spot, seems like you got that licked. too.
Forget it. Grab a shot of something.
 
TR3driver said:
Well, it probably helps that most people don't buy them as unsuccessfully assembled kits !
Click to expand...

<span style="color: #660000">Sorry for the "poor me" post randall. The car repairs
kinda crept up one me one $500 a pop at a time until I've got a $50,000
non-reliable Triumph 1969 TR6 parked in the garage.

Maybe if I wasn't so darned ill with this cardiac virus my attitude
would be better. I do so enjoy driving the car when it is not on
jackstands.

It is certainly a love/hate relationship.
I hate DPO Pedro with a passion.

dale</span>
 
Dale, measure the distance between the bottom of the handle(when the brake is engaged) and the top of the driveshaft tunnel. Cut a block of wood to hold the parking brake handle up. You now have a functional parking brake that you can walkaway from. Easy/dirty fix until you kick that virus and have more time to devote to it. Also gives us some time to scrounge up the right parts/advice for you. Do you have all the right parts? Maybe some one can find a complete/assembled handle to send your way. I'll see what I can find.
 
Tinster said:
Bobby- go to your room an stand
in the corner for 45 minute. Contemplate
the lost work day you caused Dale.

Then you are welcome back into BCF but
not before!!d
Click to expand...

I'm old and working from memory here :crazy: All I remember for sure is that I had trouble getting that bolt back through the whole thing. I'll just shut up, move to the back of the room and sit in time out for a while. :cryin:
 
Dale,
If I ever counted the dollars spent on the multitude of cars I've owned for fun, not that I needed but for fun, I'd have myself committed.
But hey, you can't take it with you and I do love the sport...it is a sport by the way and not a hobby. There are win/loss columns, injuries, bad plays, time outs, and poor choices of players (autos to care for).
We've all been there but often don't like to admit it.
Here are some pics of a MBz 190sl I 'restored' that cost me enough money to buy the Senatorial seat in Illinois, with enough left over to rent the Gary Harts boat for a cruise.
I did enjoy it though and met a great many folks of like mind in the MBz circles that I am still in contact with.
Sometimes it's best to just let 'it' sit for awhile and do something else.

https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC00055_1.jpg
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC00059_1.jpg
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC00060_1.jpg

p.s. I did not recoup my investment upon sale....the car looked so much better than it was, unibody problems, mechanical issues etc....sound familiar
 
I'd give anything to have my original "Ropa
parked in the garage instead of my brokekdown, POS TR6.

One of the major blunders in my life was selling the "Ropa.
Dang, that car would corner the daylights out of a a Porsche!!

Only sex was betten than banging 2ng gear in a "Ropa
going out of a tight radius turn.

d
 
From what I see, there is NO WAY that arrangement works. With the pivot point in the upper hole of DR5, and the "hook" of DR3 in the lower hole of DR5, the spring DR4 will push DR3 away from the ratchet plate DR7, pulling the "teeth" end of DR5 AWAY from the teeth of DR7.

I notice in the drawing that the rod of DR3 seems to have a slight bend in it. What I suspect is that the "hook" end of DR3 should actually press against DR5 above the pivot point DR6 and that there should be a spring in the lower hole of DR5. This spring would pull the "teeth" of DR5 into the teeth of the ratchet plate DR7 and then DR3 would push on the top of DR5, disengaging the teeth. And, based on the shape of the ratchet plate (DR7) that explains the hook shape on the bottom - the spring should run from the lower hole in DR6 to the slot in the bottom of DR7.

And you do have another resource, the newly arrived TR6! Take a look at his car and see how that one is done! :smile:

I hope this helps.

Peter
 
If the tr6 handbrake is anything like the Spitfire handbrake...

I will try to explain how I did mine.

Pull the clevis pin out that holds the cable assembly to the handle.
Handle out of the car, upside down on the bench for the first part.
Install the cam dr5 and it's pivot dr6. Making sure the teeth are toward the large end of the handle, don't ask me why I make this point.
Slide the button and spring assembly dr3/4 into the handle with the open side of the loop facing toward you. This loop goes over the top of the cam. You need to accomplish two things here, getting the button centered to go into the handle, and rotate the cam into the half circle as the assembly comes into position.

Another way would be to install the button/spring/actuator wire assembly first, held in with a strip of duct tape, and then put the cam in, with it's rounded top nestling into the half circle, and then put the cam pivot in.

There is no direct connection between the cam and the button assembly, the wire just lays on top of the cam, held there by the fact that there is no room inside the handle for it to slip off the cam. This might be the point that is the confusion.

Now comes the part that you can't do on Sunday because it takes some cussing to get it done.

I used a strip of duct tape to hold the button in until the whole thing was safely installed in the car.

There is a little "wing" on the bottom of the ratchet assembly, dr7, that fits over a corresponding tang of sheetmetel sticking out of the handbrake mount on the car.

You must put the ratchet in the handle, start to slide the handle into position, put the wing over the tang, rotate the ratchet into position in the handle and put the pivot clevis into the handle capturing the ratchet.

I found it helpful to coerce an unwilling accomplice to put a loose fitting pin punch (a 1/4 inch drive extension would work too) in the pivot of the handle to hold everything sort of where it belonged while I got the pivot pin ready.

The ratchet "floats", captured by the pivot pin and sheet metel tang, resumably so that there is always a little "slack" in the cables so the cam doesn't bind on the ratchet.

Remove the duct tape installed in the previous step.

Once the pivot pin is installed, the cable clevis can be put back on the handle.

and tada, one functioning parking brake. Piece of cake. :rolleyes:

Buck up Dale, the pictures show a car that would be welcome at any gathering of LBC's. You have something to be proud of there. Don't let your discouragement over this one aggravation drag your whole view of your hobby down.

If I may be so bold, from what I see in some of your posts, perhaps your percieved machanical ability causes you to replace parts that are not necessarily needing to be replaced. Notice that I said "percieved" because no one, no one, gets to the point you are at, especially with a car that was as buggered as you say this on WAS, without some innate mechanical ability.
 
A year ago last spring I fired my Spit up after a long winter. With a few spins and much choke it started. I was a happy camper. When it warmed I backed it out of my garage. Now comes the exciting part. After about ten feet my drive is on quite a slope. That being said, I backed out and pushed the brake and nothing. Right to the floor. The MC blew. My hand brake wasn't gold but it did stop me. Till then I always felt that "it's good enough." First thing after fixing the MC was to adjust my hand brake. It works now..
 
Thanks Steve-

Here is as far as I got before I gave up
and put everything back together without the spring and
button: I have a functional hand break, I just cannot lock it into position.

d


Pull the clevis pin out that holds the cable assembly to the handle.
Handle out of the car, upside down on the bench for the first part.
Install the cam dr5 and it's pivot dr6. Making sure the teeth are toward the large end of the handle, don't ask me why I make this point.
Slide the button and spring assembly dr3/4 into the handle with the open side of the loop facing toward you. This loop goes over the top of the cam. You need to accomplish two things here, getting the button centered to go into the handle, and rotate the cam into the half circle as the assembly comes into position.

Another way would be to install the button/spring/actuator wire assembly first, held in with a strip of duct tape, and then put the cam in, with it's rounded top nestling into the half circle, and then put the cam pivot in.

There is no direct connection between the cam and the button assembly, the wire just lays on top of the cam, held there by the fact that there is no room inside the handle for it to slip off the cam. This might be the point that is the confusion.

I used a strip of duct tape to hold the button in until the whole thing was safely installed in the car.

There is a little "wing" on the bottom of the ratchet assembly, dr7, that fits over a corresponding tang of sheetmetel sticking out of the handbrake mount on the car.

You must put the ratchet in the handle, start to slide the handle into position, put the wing over the tang, rotate the ratchet into position in the handle and put the pivot clevis into the handle capturing the ratchet.

I found it helpful to coerce an unwilling accomplice to put a loose fitting pin punch (a 1/4 inch drive extension would work too) in the pivot of the handle to hold everything sort of where it belonged while I got the pivot pin ready.
 
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