• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Handbrake 2

Share this page

M

Member 10617

Guest
Guest
Offline
On the topic of handbrakes, can someone give me instructions on how to adjust the ebrake? The rear brakes were very recently adjusted in the shop where I purchased the car, but the ebrake lever has to be pulled almost to its extreme position to engage. The brakes, otherwise, are working fine.
 
LexTR3 said:
On the topic of handbrakes, can someone give me instructions on how to adjust the ebrake? The rear brakes were very recently adjusted in the shop where I purchased the car, but the ebrake lever has to be pulled almost to its extreme position to engage. The brakes, otherwise, are working fine.
Click to expand...

You'll need to adjust the cable by undoing the locknut at the end of the sheath at the rear of the transmission tunnel. Take up the slack until you can lock the brakes at around 3 clicks.

Screen Shot -brake cable.png
 
Gerard,

Could you match the locknut with the numbered items in the illustration. I'm not sure which one of the various bolts you are mentioning.

Also, some instructions say that I have to tighten the rear drum brakes before I adjust the cable? Is that not necessary?

Many thanks.
 
That is necessary. Rear brakes should be properly adjusted first.
 
Under the car it works just like the brakes on a 10 speed bicycle, if you've ever done those. It'll take two 9/16" wrenches tho. One to hold the barrel and the other to turn the adjuster nut.
 
In Gerards picture the lock nuts [2] are not numbered and are on the cable. If you crawl under the car I think they will be obvious.

Kurt.
 
Many thanks. It is becoming clearer to me.

Bayless: My rear brakes have been adjusted properly, so can I leave them alone and just adjust the ebrake?
 
Like was said, 3 clicks up. For Bat-turns and stuff..:encouragement:
 
Thanks leecreek.

Sorry to be so dense, but I'm still not clear. I assume the three clicks up means three clicks up on my ebrake handle. And then tighten up the slack in the cable with that setting.

But what about the rear drum brakes. They have been set properly. In adjusting the ebrake, do I need to tighten the rear brake drums down all the way before I adjust the ebrake and then back them off? Some instructions imply this.

Also.... I don't know what a Bat-turn is.
 
LexTR3 said:
Thanks leecreek.

Sorry to be so dense, but I'm still not clear. I assume the three clicks up means three clicks up on my ebrake handle. And then tighten up the slack in the cable with that setting.

But what about the rear drum brakes. They have been set properly. In adjusting the ebrake, do I need to tighten the rear brake drums down all the way before I adjust the ebrake and then back them off? Some instructions imply this.

Also.... I don't know what a Bat-turn is.
Click to expand...

There's no harm in locking the shoes first if you like, but adjusting the cable with the brake handle at 3 clicks may not give you the result you seek.reason being that there is some stretch to the cable. The way I do it is the set the shoes first; i.e. lock them and back off one click. This is done with the handbrake fully off. Next, I step on the brake pedal to make sure the shoes are centered. Next, adjust the cable and test the handbrake periodically during adjustment until 3 clicks securely keep the car from rolling. Then test each wheel by hand with the handbrake off and make sure that the drums turn with relative ease. That does not mean that you shouldn't feel some slight drag on the shoes, just that each wheel can be turned by hand. Next, drive the car and make sure that the wheels are not heating up excessively (indicating adjustment is too tight) or that you small the linings heating up.

Once you become more familiar and adept and making this adjustment, you can abbreviate the steps a bit. If you do lock the rear shoes first, remember to back of the adjustment one to two turns on the adjuster.

A "Bat-turn" is something done in events like auto-crosses to lock up the rear wheels to bring the back of the car around, hopefully in a controlled fashion.
 
Gerard,

Many warm thanks for a complete explanation and run-through on adjusting the ebrake. I'm sure that once I have done it, it will be relatively easy, but you know how it is the first time. Now if I can only dig myself out from the Bilzzard of 2016 and wait until all the salt has been washed off the roads so I can take the little Bug out.

Best wishes.
 
Gerard. When you say that I should adjust the cable with the brake handle at "3 clicks," and back off the rear shoes adjustment screw "one click" that you are talking about an actual sound or, as in the military, a specific unit or units of measurement (a mark, or a notch, or a stop, or some other indicator). Does the term "click" apply both to the ebrake lever and the brake drum adjustors?
 
Yes. sound. Make adjustment with handbrake OFF... test periodically with where it locks until you get to 3 clicks. You can start with it one to get a reference, but because cable will stretch when pulled, you will likely still need to fine tune it.



LexTR3 said:
Gerard. When you say that I should adjust the cable with the brake handle at "3 clicks," and back off the rear shoes adjustment screw "one click" that you are talking about an actual sound or, as in the military, a specific unit or units of measurement (a mark, or a notch, or a stop, or some other indicator). Does the term "click" apply both to the ebrake lever and the brake drum adjustors?
Click to expand...
 
Gerard,

Many thanks. As soon as we get some warm weather and I've put 1000 miles on the car, I will set to work on adjusting the brakes and setting the ebrake at 3 clicks.

I don't know if it is really necessary to check and readjust the Bugeye brakes every 1000 miles, but since the manuals call for it, and I always try to follow the manuals, I'll perform that check and adjustment as recommended. With my 58 TR3, the front disc brakes needed no periodic adjustment and the manuals didn't call for periodic adjustments to the rear drum brakes (larger than the Bugeye brakes, so I understand). In the six years I owned the Triumph, I didn't have to do anything to the brakes... and so my unfamiliarity with the procedure.

Many warm thanks.
 
Back
Top