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TR2/3/3A Hand crank misalignment

Got_All_4

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Went to try my newly purchased hand crank and when I put it through the hole in the radiator it didn't hook up to the crank shaft bolt. Looking through and aligning the 2 holes I can see that the engine crank isn't in line with the hole in the radiator. Do I need to shim it over and up a bit. About over a 1/2" and up 5/16". Or what?
 

TR3driver

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That's apparently what the factory did, the shims are P/N 109582 used "as required".

But I would suggest changing the motor mounts first. They do sag with age, sometimes quite a bit.
 
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Got_All_4

Got_All_4

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I suppose they could have sagged a bit but it's only been 2 years since I put new ones in. I may have only put 1 shim on top as I didn't have a hand crank then and not thinking about alingment. Now the shims would raise the engine but what about right to left?
 

DavidApp

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Had the same problem a few weeks ago.

I ended up lifting the motor and removing the mount bolts in the frame. Then shifting the engine sideways and up to align the holes. Noted where the bolt holes were and filed one mount holes to get them to line up.
Hanging the motor from a hoist worked better tha a jack as there is some wobble.

Lines up great now with the extra shims and the sideways mover.

David
 

Geo Hahn

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...Do I need to shim it over and up a bit. About over a 1/2" and up 5/16". Or what?

I had to shim a bit when I got the radiator re-cored but not as much as you describe -- that may be a challenge.

One issue you will encounter is that this is going the throw off the alignment of the thermostat housing and top radiator connection. Ideally those should be in line - some tolerance is offered by the accordion hose, hopefully that will accommodate the change.

Is the side-to-side ½" misalignment clearly the engine or could the radiator or guide be shifted at all?
 

DavidApp

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When lowering the motor/gearbox assembly onto the frame there seems to be some wiggle room side to side and it only becomes a problem when you try to align the radiator hole and of course the thermostat hose connection.
I noticed the crank misalignment before I attempted to do the hose connection. When I got the crank hole right the hose connection was good as well.

David
 

TR3driver

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I've not had a problem with motor mounts (don't even have a hole in the radiator); but I've certainly had other rubber aftermarket parts that fell apart in less than 2 years.

If worst comes to worst, you may have to chase down which parts are bent (frame, engine front plate, etc) and either bend them back or replace them.

There may also be some wiggle room in the radiator location; especially if you use Bob Schaller's modification
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffMmE1YTU0YzctMTQyOC00MmJmLWFiZGItNTI5ZjI3N2NjZTIy

I suppose they could have sagged a bit but it's only been 2 years since I put new ones in. I may have only put 1 shim on top as I didn't have a hand crank then and not thinking about alingment. Now the shims would raise the engine but what about right to left?
 

DavidApp

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Hopefully everything will still be in line when the front cowl goes on and the guide is in place.

I always had problems with the guide moving on my old TR2 in England. That one had a fiberglass cowl and I did not realize how much the cowl supports the guide. The rods only do so much to position it.

David
 

CJD

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I suppose they could have sagged a bit but it's only been 2 years since I put new ones in. I may have only put 1 shim on top as I didn't have a hand crank then and not thinking about alingment. Now the shims would raise the engine but what about right to left?


Right to left is controlled by using different number of shims left side or right as necessary. Because they are on an acute angle, a thin shim makes a much larger change at the crank. In general add shims to center the crank first. Once centered, then add equal to both sides to lift the front as necessary.
 
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