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Hand brake for late drums on a Bugeye

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drooartz

drooartz

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Okay, I've got the late style backing plates installed on the Tunebug. I know I'll need to run new brake lines (I have them handy), but what do I do to make the hand brake work? I've got all the bits from the donor car (a 74 Midget), all the way back to the Midgets handle.

So what's the plan?
 
Hay wait. It is you that has to have a plan. No clue, can a combination of the old and new work?
 
I have done it a few times. The rods will not work due to the orientation of the later back plates on the Bugeye axle banjo. I do not recall the exact specifics but once I cut the E-brake rods, threaded each end and used a union nut (female threaded each end) to make up the difference. I also remember buying some rod and heating up the ends, mashing them flat and drilling a hole for the pins.
 
I made mine work by cutting the ends and re-orienting them, but I added a little extra length that I did not need, so I'll have to redo them. I think a better solution would be to use the late rubber bumper cross style cable.
 
Would it be possible to cut the rod at one end, thread each side of the cut, and use some sort of connector to lock them together? I don't have welding gear handy, though I do have a couple friends with the tools and skills.

<span style="font-style: italic">Edit: Now I see what spritenut meant, and he answered my question already...</span>
 
Another thought: could you use a simple cable setup, or do the levers need the push from the rods to retract? It would seem that the springs on the shoes would retract them once the pull pressure was off the lever. Cables would be easy to setup... Hmm...
 
The later 1500 models had a "floating" rod that the cable attached to. Pulling the cable shortened the rod. This has the added advantage that it equalized tension between the two drums. I'll see if I can find a diagram.
 
I'm watching this thread closely to see what the final solution will be...I'm gonna need it too!!
 
I can't find a diagram.
Maybe someone on here with a late model 1500 can post a picture.
 
is '76 late enough?
 
I have a possible solution that I spent a while tonight playing with. When I stripped the 74 midget for parts, I kept the entire hand brake setup. The rods from that setup are different than the Bugeye rods -- the angles are almost right. With a little slop in the pins holding them together they should work. I've got them roughed in right now (pictures tomorrow) and I think they'll work, maybe.

Should there be any pressure on the levers at the backing plates? Any tension in the rod system with the brake off?
 
Pictures of my first stab at this. You can see in picture #2 that the rod ends at the center of the car are not quite at the proper angle, but they're really close. With some slightly undersized pins to hold them in place, they may work as is (these are the rods from the donor 74 Midget).

Otherwise, I like the idea of cutting the rods, threading the cut ends, and joining them back up.

brakerods1.jpg


brakerods2.jpg
 
In my humble opinion that's close enough. Now get em cleaned up and painted.
 
I dunno. I'd be concerned about binding. Is there enough metal to angle the holes.

I think the 1500 handbrake changed in late '78.
 
Trevor Jessie said:
I dunno. I'd be concerned about binding. Is there enough metal to angle the holes.

I think the 1500 handbrake changed in late '78.
Click to expand...

I doubt binding will be a problem as the whole (centre) unit pivots. However, just angle the holes some and go play. Neat solution!
 
I'm going to take a look tonight and see if there is enough metal around the holes in the rods to angle them a bit. If it looks sketchy, I'll look into cutting each of the rods in half and inserting a coupler of some sort to allow the proper angle and length.

It's nice to have this spare set of rods to experiment with.
 
drooartz said:
Pictures of my first stab at this. You can see in picture #2 that the rod ends at the center of the car are not quite at the proper angle, but they're really close. With some slightly undersized pins to hold them in place, they may work as is (these are the rods from the donor 74 Midget).

Otherwise, I like the idea of cutting the rods, threading the cut ends, and joining them back up.
Click to expand...

Drew, if I were you I'd heat about an inch length of each rod about an inch from either (not both) end and give the rod a little twist to line things up. Heat the rod to medium red with a propane torch should do nicely.

I would not leave things as they are or go with undersize pins. With the offset you currently have, you will encourage wear at the rod ends and the pins. Contact will be at the top on one side of the hole and at the bottom on the other side of the same hole.

One more little step, that being a little heat and a twist and you are there. Less work than cutting, threading and coupling back together, and less prone to "uncouple" at an inopportune time too. :banana:

Tim
 
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