H6 carb jet bearing assembly

[NutmegCT]

OK - thanks. I wondered if that hole is "worn" - sounds like it's ok.

Here's a link to closeups of the linkage:

https://www.mgexperience.net/journal/tmorehouse/1263

I just tried the whole thing again. Sat in driver seat, pulled choke knob with one hand - pulled out about 1/2 inch. At that point the jets haven't moved - only the "play" in the levers.

Pulled with two hands, knob pulls out another 1/4 inch or so. Jets are just beginning to move down. Knob won't go any further unless I brace my foot on door hinge and pull with all my strength. Then knob moves another 1/2 inch. At that point the jets are equally down about 1/2 inch, and front jet lever is parallel to stationary arm.

Choke operates a *bit* more easily if the two return springs are removed from the jet levers.

Tom

 

[sp53]

Hi Tom take a look at your linkage and see if part number (Moss) 370-980 part 24 is not flipped around. If it is, the part will lock against the body of the carb and not let the choke come out all the way.

Sp53

 

[NutmegCT]

sp53 - I've got a TR3A with H6 carbs (AUC878), so it would use part 21 on page 24, Moss 370-630. Unless I'm way off, 370-980 is for the TR2 (AUC721).

But mine is attached in the same direction as the Moss diagram of either the 370-630 or the 370-980; The "flat" (the part that connect the inside and outside where the holes are) faces the firewall.

Is that what you mean? Do you feel the "flat" should be on the front of the link?

Thanks.
Tom

 

[sp53]

Yes Tom that is part. I was in a hurry and did not see the sub-listing. Anyways I had that in wrong once and could not get the choke to work. If you were to reach in with your hand and grab the choke arms, can you pull them back together easily? Tr3 chokes are tuff/tough to pull out, but yours sounds a little too hard. Perhaps the little cam lobe that you were working is binding. Or perhaps there is not enough cable sheathing pealed back from the center cable and the little crimping bolt/ pin bottoms out before the jets come out; I saw that once. The jets need to come out at a max of about 3/8 for those things to start when it is really cold, so make sure you have enough travel. It has been my experience that choking problems on a tr3 account for a lot of other problems so spend some time with this one and try and get it right. Anyways try that.
Sp53

 

[Don Elliott]

In your photo, you have the yoke that connects the two choke rods on the wrong side. See my photo. The yoke goes on the other side (nearer the block) that where you have it.

Also I have about 1.5 to 2" of stranded cable showing between the clamp where the sheath is secured and where it's attached by the nut in the choke rod under carb #1. In your photo, you have no more free cable to let you pull the knob any further. Your brass choke bar that pulls down on carb #1 is already bottomed out by the clamp position.

 

[sp53]

Hi Tom another thing you might check is part 370-550. Yours looks kinda beafy and the ones you get from Moss are a little weaker. It seems to me that years ago I went down to local parts store and bought some of those beafer springs and had a similar problem with my choke. Later I tried some lighter weight ones and they help a lot. After I looked around the post some more, I saw your pictures and could not see if the jet actually came out enough, but it looks like you have the part in question right.
Sp53

 

[sp53]

Nice picture Don that is what I was trying to put into words.

Sp53

 

[NutmegCT]

In your photo, you have the yoke that connects the two choke rods on the wrong side. See my photo. The yoke goes on the other side (nearer the block) that where you have it.

Also I have about 1.5 to 2" of stranded cable showing between the clamp where the sheath is secured and where it's attached by the nut in the choke rod under carb #1. In your photo, you have no more free cable to let you pull the knob any further. Your brass choke bar that pulls down on carb #1 is already bottomed out by the clamp position.

Don - moving that yoke to the other side is something I'm going to do tomorrow to see if it changes clearance and "pull" of the cable.

You mention I have no more free cable in the photo. That photo page in my link has three photos. Which picture are you referring to? In one picture the front carb choke is off; the lever is fully vertical and there's 1.5 to 2 inches of open cable showing. In the other picture of the front carb, the choke is fully down (about 3/8 inch). That's why there is no cable showing? Did I not understand you?

Tom

 

[NutmegCT]

Hi Tom another thing you might check is part 370-550. Yours looks kinda beafy and the ones you get from Moss are a little weaker. It seems to me that years ago I went down to local parts store and bought some of those beafer springs and had a similar problem with my choke. Later I tried some lighter weight ones and they help a lot. After I looked around the post some more, I saw your pictures and could not see if the jet actually came out enough, but it looks like you have the part in question right.
Sp53

I've been wondering about those springs. When theyr'e disconnected, the choke pulls perfectly. Of course then the levers don't retract when I push the choke knob back in. You mention lighter weight springs. Are those the Moss springs? Or just some springs you found locally?

Thanks.
Tom

 

[Don Elliott]

Tom - I was looking at the wrong photo. Sorry. I see the other photo which shows the 1.5 - 2" of cable. That's fine. With the yoke on the far side, the cable lays straighter and doesn't seem to have an abrupt twist in it near the end where it is secured to the nut on the cross rod. This should make it easier to pull. BTW, I still have the original return springs on mine. 49 years for these springs now, and hardly ever been used. I rarely use the choke. I have pulled it on occasion and found that the springs don't always pull the choke rods back up. Then I'm running rich.

 

[NutmegCT]

Just thinking out loud here -

If the choke pulls back easily (and properly lowers the jets) without the return springs attached ... and the choke pulls back with only moderately increased resistance using only one spring ... and that single spring properly pulls both jets completely back up ...

Will I be banished from the Triumph Family if I just disconnect one spring?

Is this a cop-out sell-out chicken-poop resolution?

Tom

 

[Harry_Ward]

Just thinking out loud here -

Will I be banished from the Triumph Family if I just disconnect one spring?

Is this a cop-out sell-out chicken-poop resolution?

Tom

Tom,

Absolutely not misery loves company! Only one chicken-poop cop out allowed per repair though. Will one spring pull both of the jets back to fully off? If not the carbs will run rich as Don Say's. I know that little anomaly for a fact. So does my wife when she followed me home in her car and had to deal with the fumes from a overly rich exhaust.

 

[NutmegCT]

One spring does fully retract both jets back up into the shaft. It's certainly the most likely (sane?) work-around I've found.

I also want to try changing that connecting rod to the engine side of the levers, as well as scouting around for two other return springs with a "lighter" touch.

Tom

 

[sp53]

Hi Tom the springs you get from moss I believe will be weaker than the ones you have on there now. I am actually not sure where the ones I am using now came from because I have a couple of old parts cars. Over the years I have seen some that are even too weak, but I do not know where they came from for sure. I suggest trying the springs from Moss and see where that takes you. If they are still too strong, and if you live in big city, you should be able to find something that fits the bill.
Sp53