GT6 GT6+ Project on a Student budget.

[Deleted member 11174]

I'm looking to build a mild track car with about 170-200Bhp, the problem is I have no idea where to look for performance engine and suspension parts. I have found PRI but anyone know of any others?



Pictures! and if this forum is anything like the last one I was involved in I don't have nearly enough.

Any advantage to mounting the shock here instead of on the frame?

Could I use these axles and hubs to replace the rotoflex joints while retaining the mag wheels?

There will be many updates to come (On my budget they will be spread out over a year or so)

Thanks,
James

 

[tdskip]

Good morning James.

That horsepower range will require a lot fo engine work and is probably not in a "budget" range. They are certainly capable of cranking out more than stock, but those numbers you reference are not easily achieved. Maybe someone has some secrete sauce that I don' know about.

As far as suspension parts go, SpitBits is pretty local to San Jose (as-in NorCal) as is Moss Motors. Victoria British and others also carry parts.

Ted at TSI in Ohio is also worth a call, he carries a lot of stuff and knows his cars. I'm not sure if he's got a lot for the GT6 but if he does it will be top quality.

The green shell looks pretty straight - nice find.

Classic Motorsport has been doing a build on the Group 44 GT6 they found, work tracking down the articles or going to their web site.

Changing the shock locations requires more knowledge of the GT6 suspension geometry than I have, but you should be careful about putting stress on a location that wasn't designed for it. If the geometry works you;ll seem some serious reinforcements at a minimum.

Keep us posted!

 

[UltimateQuestion]

James,

Make sure you get a copy of Kas Kastner's GT6 Competition Prep book, either the re-print of the old Triumph pamphlet (available from the big 3 parts houses) or his new updated books available from his website. The new books are wonderful, they have great stories from back-in-the-day and a lot of updated vintage racing stuff.

https://www.kaskastner.com/

 

[Andrew Mace]

Any advantage to mounting the shock here instead of on the frame?

The shocks were mounted there by the factory because that frame mount (used with swing-axle GT6s and Spitfire) allows the shock to clear the Roto-flex coupling on the drive axle.

Could I use these axles and hubs to replace the rotoflex joints while retaining the mag wheels?

Yes, but it would be a definite step backwards! Overall, the Roto-flex setup is much better for handling. Some of the wider "mag" wheels don't have sufficient offset to clear the shock mount, but it's possible that a thin spacer might be used. That's a much better solution than reverting to a generally inferior suspension setup just to accommodate wheels. But yes, the older swing axles will pretty much bolt up to the car, albeit not without some needed modifications, most notably in the mounts for the radius arms.

Beyond that, anything's possible in terms of engine output, although in some respects it might be easier to start out with the TR6 engine (longer stroke for more torque but a less rev-happy engine). But you'll almost certainly be looking at gearbox and differential upgrades to have any sort of reliable use of the extra horsepower you desire.

Especially since you note being on a "student budget," it might be best to get one of those cars and make it the best it can be in stock form, see how you like it, and then map out a plan from there.

As others note, Kas Kastner's competition preparation writings are pretty much "Bible" for performance upgrades on any Triumph, and there's an awful lot that can be done to get reasonable increases in power without sacrificing drivability, reliability...or the entire contents of your wallet/savings account/inheritance! :laugh:

 

[Deleted member 11174]

I'm planning on this project to take a year or so before it looks anything like a track car. Right now I have a running engine in the car and an engine on the stand that's going to be torn down and rebuilt. So thanks for the replies and I definitely have a lot of reading to do sine I'm very new to Triumphs.

 

[UmmYeahOk]

Unfortunately if you want a respectable "mild track car" with that kind of HP, and with a tight budget, Id suggest buying a used focus engine as your starting point, and then suping that one up from there. Youd need the wiring harness and computer. But then it would be a GT4. Id be against it, but its not like people never threw ford engines in british cars to make a race car before.

Id also get some maglites, the wider the better. Youd also need a roll cage to reinforce the structure as Im pretty sure they didnt exactly design the car to handle flexing at twice the stock HP.

 

[HerronScott]

Hey UmmYeahOK (Niki?).

How is the engine rebuild going? Did you get the issues (bearing/crank?) worked out?

Scott

 

[Deleted member 11174]

Currently I'm working on getting the body rust free, I probably won't start work on the engine till next season (Theater work is slow during the summer). But what crank issues do you speak of? I figured I would just get it reground and knife edged. By the way, I have always wanted to rebuild and engine so this is going to be my first. I will have many, many questions.

Thanks,
James

 

[sabot]

Can anyone give me more info on the alum. rim in his post. The one with the goodyear tire on it. When, what, where?
I have a set of 5 and no info other than if I want to put them on my 76 Spitty
i have to change the wheel studs to a longer length.
thanks tom

 

[3798j]

Can anyone give me more info on the alum. rim in his post. The one with the goodyear tire on it. When, what, where?
I have a set of 5 and no info other than if I want to put them on my 76 Spitty
i have to change the wheel studs to a longer length.
thanks tom

They appear to be Ansen Sprints (although as I learned on this forum, there were other wheel manufacturers making similar slotted aluminum wheels). These wheels actually used shouldered wheel nuts. To fit yours, rather than going with longer studs, it would be simpler to drill out the holes to fit later model Spitfire shouldered wheel nuts. Or, what I did, was have a machine shop turn down the shoulder to fit the wheel opening.
Here is an old original:

 

[sabot]

Thanks Jay for the picture. Thats the one thing the car did not come with, lugnuts, know where I can get some of the originals?
Tom

 

[Andrew Mace]

... rather than going with longer studs, it would be simpler to drill out the holes to fit later model Spitfire shouldered wheel nuts....

Technically, the later model Spitfire wheel nuts aren't really "shouldered" in the same sense as lug nuts for aftermarket wheels. The only real "shoulder" per se is there simply to clear the plastic wheel center; the base is still tapered (or however you wish to describe it) as with any other typical lug nut for a steel wheel. Whether that would make any difference on a wheel such as an Ansen Sprint, I don't know....

 

[3798j]

Andy - you're right my terminology was incorrect. The word I should have chosen was "shank" not "shoulder". Tom, I purchased these (#17 in the left hand drawing) VB part no. 12-128, without the flat washers and had the local machine shop turn the shank down to the size of my wheel stud opening. There is no taper beneath the head of these lug nuts - to use them with your alloy wheels, washers would be needed.

 

[sabot]

ARRRG, I bought, (wife), a 68 spitty in pretty bad shape with wire wheels on it.
Those rims are in pretty bad shape,look just like the one's in the above picture,the car also came with the aluminum rims in the other above picture.
I also have new studs and lug nuts from "Vicky" from the right side of of the
above order form, the spitty side.
Guess I'm going to have to buy some GT6 lugs?
Tom

 

[Andrew Mace]

Guess I'm going to have to buy some GT6 lugs?

Not to worry; they're the same as Spitfire!

 

[alfred2]

Check out the last couple of "Classic M0torsports" mag for articles on rebuild of an old group 44 racer. It is full of ideas but not always on the cheap.

 

[Deleted member 11174]

A small update:

- The body is off the frame.

- I got the motor is came with running.

- I have no idea how to work on the body now.

Have any of you guys built a rotisserie or something similar so you can weld in new floors while the body is off the frame?

Also I thought this picture was great. I drove to the Santa Cruz Boardwalk today and found the perfect spot to park:

 

[UltimateQuestion]

Great parking job until you have to pull out - no way to see around those behemoths without a spotter!

 

[Reh]

Thats awesome. Makes me want to get a TR10 estate and park it between 2 SUVs.