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grinding noise....
- Thread starter zimmy
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Hap Waldrop
Yoda
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There is a inner hub seal as well, if the shoes were covered in gear oil, not brake fluid, it came from somewhere rear end/hub related.
Oh and if you're using solvent as a cleaner, just make sure to keep your cigarette a safe distance away :wink: solvent is solvent guys, I don't use gas very often, because it doesn't keep well, I mostly use kerosene (in my part washer),laquer thinner, and mineral spirits, it all catch you on fire if you're a knucklehead, but they haven't made anything yet that cleans parts as well. And yes I cleaned brake shoe before, with race cars you do it or you'd be buying brake shoes every weekend, I use brake clean and scuff them up with 180 grit sandpaper, you may want to check again after using, and clean agin, but it works just fine, not to say buying a new set is not acceptable, just stating what I done many times sucessfully.
Zimmy, the rear hub bearings are lubes by the rear end's doping. ,m alittle gease would be ok as a intial lube, until the doping reaches the hub, but be neat, you don't want anything that would compromise the axle/hub seal, I use Permatex Utlimate Black RTV, the best stuff I've ever seen to seal up a axle, I use the o-ring but not the paper gasket. AS a Sp[ridget racer I done this job more time I care to think about, a few tips:
Drain the axle housing if you have not already
Spray brak clean into the bearing if re using, get it where no more rear end dope drools out of it, this will compromise your seal.
The Black RTV is worth it's weight in gold, don't let anyone talk you into that halomar crap.
Bolt the wheel on torque to specs, this gives you a 360 degree seal
After the silicone has competely sealed a few hours, overnight, then refill the rear diff.
Don't fill the diff until dope runs out the fill hole, sneak up on it, use your pinky and your pinky's first joint to check the level, once you can get dope on the end of your pinky, you filled, too much dope will just flood the hubs, and cause the inner seal to fail.
Hope this helps.
Oh and if you're using solvent as a cleaner, just make sure to keep your cigarette a safe distance away :wink: solvent is solvent guys, I don't use gas very often, because it doesn't keep well, I mostly use kerosene (in my part washer),laquer thinner, and mineral spirits, it all catch you on fire if you're a knucklehead, but they haven't made anything yet that cleans parts as well. And yes I cleaned brake shoe before, with race cars you do it or you'd be buying brake shoes every weekend, I use brake clean and scuff them up with 180 grit sandpaper, you may want to check again after using, and clean agin, but it works just fine, not to say buying a new set is not acceptable, just stating what I done many times sucessfully.
Zimmy, the rear hub bearings are lubes by the rear end's doping. ,m alittle gease would be ok as a intial lube, until the doping reaches the hub, but be neat, you don't want anything that would compromise the axle/hub seal, I use Permatex Utlimate Black RTV, the best stuff I've ever seen to seal up a axle, I use the o-ring but not the paper gasket. AS a Sp[ridget racer I done this job more time I care to think about, a few tips:
Drain the axle housing if you have not already
Spray brak clean into the bearing if re using, get it where no more rear end dope drools out of it, this will compromise your seal.
The Black RTV is worth it's weight in gold, don't let anyone talk you into that halomar crap.
Bolt the wheel on torque to specs, this gives you a 360 degree seal
After the silicone has competely sealed a few hours, overnight, then refill the rear diff.
Don't fill the diff until dope runs out the fill hole, sneak up on it, use your pinky and your pinky's first joint to check the level, once you can get dope on the end of your pinky, you filled, too much dope will just flood the hubs, and cause the inner seal to fail.
Hope this helps.
Hap Waldrop
Yoda
Offline
jlaird said:
Yeah, Jack, I'd be real dangerous, if I could type
You're right, I'm thinking of double bearing hubs, single baring stock hubs don't have a inner seal.
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OK, I feel like we've entered might as well territory. I did the bearings on mine and frankly I think it was overkill. We started with wet brakes and now we're building a space shuttle. I doubt very much that the bearings are a problem - as lots have stated, they are very durable. At this point you have 2 issues
1. Your brakes got wet.
2. Your brakes are wet.
#1 Is likely a gasket/ O-ring sealing issue which can literally be solved with pocket change.
#2 Is a little more serious even though you can wash your brake pads and reuse.
I just looked at Moss and a set of pads is about $20. the springs are also about $20. I wouldn't worry about anything else. The cylinders were working as were the hoses so why change them?
In other words, $40ish, some permatex and some grease and Bob's your uncle.
My 2 cents anyway. (Oh and check your PM)
1. Your brakes got wet.
2. Your brakes are wet.
#1 Is likely a gasket/ O-ring sealing issue which can literally be solved with pocket change.
#2 Is a little more serious even though you can wash your brake pads and reuse.
I just looked at Moss and a set of pads is about $20. the springs are also about $20. I wouldn't worry about anything else. The cylinders were working as were the hoses so why change them?
In other words, $40ish, some permatex and some grease and Bob's your uncle.
My 2 cents anyway. (Oh and check your PM)
G
Guest
Guest
Guest
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You're not any fun at all! LOL! The 4 most expensive words pertaining to automotive repair and home improvement are "While you're at it!". Remember Steve Austin (Lee Majors) Heck, they spent 6 million dollars on him... now don't tell me those scientist/doctors didn't have fun!
jvandyke
Luke Skywalker
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I'm finishing up my rear hub rebuild as fell into the "might as well" a little, but I don't know any better either. I had drained and refilled the differential earlier this year and, not knowing any better I filled it up till it started coming out the fill hole, apparently this is considered too much and leaving it a tad lower than the fill hole is better, so that's what I did last night.
I did bearings, oil seals, o-rings, cylinders and shoes, rubber plugs and boots, took apart and greased the emergency brake linkages, lubed the cable, rebuilt the MC AGAIN,
Now if I can just get some wrench time during normal hours (I never seem able to work on it when any other human is awake) I can get some serious bleeding done. I'm a bit concerned that the drums are still in spec, they go on and off too easy and with brand new shoes I'd think it'd be a snugger fit prior to adjustment. Also wasn't sure just how far to push the hubs back on. With any luck, I'll be back on the road and able to stop well and then I can back to important matters such as oil and exhaust leaks.
I did bearings, oil seals, o-rings, cylinders and shoes, rubber plugs and boots, took apart and greased the emergency brake linkages, lubed the cable, rebuilt the MC AGAIN,
Now if I can just get some wrench time during normal hours (I never seem able to work on it when any other human is awake) I can get some serious bleeding done. I'm a bit concerned that the drums are still in spec, they go on and off too easy and with brand new shoes I'd think it'd be a snugger fit prior to adjustment. Also wasn't sure just how far to push the hubs back on. With any luck, I'll be back on the road and able to stop well and then I can back to important matters such as oil and exhaust leaks.