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Grille Surround removal

Coastalman

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I want to have my grille surround re-chromed so I started to remove it yesterday. The bottom nuts are easy to get to from underneath, but I can't figure out how to get to the top bolts. Do I have to take out the hood release and/or the radiator to get to the nuts? I was hoping this would be easier than it now appears to be. Any insight would be appreciated.
Charlie
 
No you do not have to remove the hood release or the radiator. Just be very patient and you will locate two studs with nuts at the top of the grill. Removing these nuts should allow you to remove the surround.---Fwiw--Keoke
 
Hey y'all,
Similar question that maybe someone can help with - I am
replacing the steering wheel on my 100-6 and know I
need to pull the traffictor ( sp?) out to remove it -
how in the world can you get to the harness coming out of
the end of the steering column without removing the grill
which like the surround is only made to be removed with
a great deal of bending in ways I can no longer bend !!!
Thanks,
Mike , Big Healey Source
 
Hi Mike,
It's not too hard to pull the trafficator, just a lot of fooling around. This assumes that your car has the non-adjustable steering column. If it is an adjustable column, the lower inner tube can be left in place but the upper end is secured to the hub by small hard to find set screws which must be released to pull out the upper tube with trafficator.

Remove the left front wheel to get access to the front of the steering box.

Locate & unplug the wires coming out of the small metal tube in the end of the box. There should be connectors for the wires located about one to two feet from the box.

Tape the wire ends together in a staggered fashion & securely tape this end to a stout string or wire. Make the string long enough to easily go all the way through the steering tube & then some.

Place a drain pan under the steering box to collect the lube that will leak out.

Loosen the clamping nut/fitting in the end of the steering box. Under the end fitting nut is a split compression sleeve (olive). Work the entire trafficator & small tube back into the passenger compartment while carefully guiding the taped wire ends through the end fitting, string following.

When the wires & string end are clear of the inside steering hub, anchor the bottom end of the string & detach it from the taped wires at the top.

Remove & replace the steering wheel.

Reattach the string to the wires & feed the tube back into the steering column, while lightly pulling on the string to pull the wires back down as the tube goes in.

When the wires are fully back down, align the trafficator to the 12 o'clock position & tighten the olive nut.

Reconnect the wire end bullets.

Top up the steering box lube.

A couple of possible problems:
The olive may have been clamped so tightly that you need to remove the end nut & slightly spread the olive joint.
The wire ends with bullet connectors plus tape, may be too large to go through the steering box end hole. If staggering the bullets doesn't make them fit, remove the bullets.

Maybe someone will post a url to some pics of this process?
D
 
Hey Dave,
Thank you for the great detailed explanation. I have a late
100-6 so has the adjustable column so I can leave the bottom
half of the trafficator in place but was worrying about
the access to the bottom of the steering column. Should
have figured it might be something easy. Will try to get
this done tonight !!! Many thanks,
Mike
 
[ QUOTE ]
Thanks Keoke! I'll see if I can locate them. I am not as limber as I used to be.
Charlie

[/ QUOTE ]

Naw, the ground has moved farther away. I know this to be a fact because it takes longer to get back up now!----Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
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