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TR2/3/3A Grease cap

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Jayplum

Jayplum

Jedi Hopeful
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This may be a dumb question but is there a trick to securing the grease cap on a TR3 rotor.
There is a hole in the center, assuming for a grease fitting but the cap is not designed to be secured.
I can make it out of round and hope it stays in but not sure.
 
The grease cap in its original shape should have a rounded edge that is inserted into the opening. That edge then holds the cap in place. If your cap will not hold in place by itself , you may need a new cap.
The hole in the cap is not for a grease zerk. It is used by many of us to help remove the cap. The traditional way to remove the cap is to insert a screw into that hole and turn the screw in. It will come in contact with the axle and "push" the cap off the hub. Unfortunately after several times doing that the hole gets enlarged and the screw no longer works, even with larger screws. When I bought a new cap I welded a small nut onto the top of the cap over the hole. Now I use a small bolt instead of a screw to "push" the cap off.
 
I've had the same problem, some new caps aren't made right. Fortunately I had some old ones that were still usable.

BTW, original tool kit included a 10-32 screw for forcing the caps off. Apparently originals were sterner stuff than the repros, that trick has never worked for me unless I weld or glue a nut inside.
 
The new caps that don't work were part of my wasted money during my restoration. Repro parts are getting worse.
 
If TRF does not have something that will work, perhaps some crimping tool for sheet metal. Many years ago I put down spouts on homes and we had this crimping tool to put little pleats on the edge of the metal; it would only need a few. Heck you could probably do something with light chisel, try to not cut through, and hole in a board; the hub cap or knock off will be there also.
 
If you can find a piece of pipe or socket that is close to the size of the ID of the cap, slip the cap over it and make a few center punch marks around the OD. This might raise the metal around the marks enough to make the cap a tight fit in the hub.
Berry
 
tried several items to secure to include a cold chisel, block of wood, several mallets and hammers, etc.
problem appears to be the lip is curled under which will not push out the band to tighten the fit.

titanic said:
If you can find a piece of pipe or socket that is close to the size of the ID of the cap, slip the cap over it and make a few center punch marks around the OD. This might raise the metal around the marks enough to make the cap a tight fit in the hub.
Berry
Click to expand...
 
Jayplum said:
bought two from TRF. Both the same. Just ordered two from Moss; will check them out.
in dealing with AM parts it can be hit or miss. Don’t blame TRF just a miss
Click to expand...

We all understand that the suppliers like TRF and Moss keep getting new stocks of parts. And anyone of those new stocks can contain a bunch of faulty parts. So it is best to notify the supplier of the problem so they can work to get it corrected. It is how they deal with you from that point that makes the difference in a supplier that you want to continue to order from.
 
charleyf said:
We all understand that the suppliers like TRF and Moss keep getting new stocks of parts. And anyone of those new stocks can contain a bunch of faulty parts. So it is best to notify the supplier of the problem so they can work to get it corrected. It is how they deal with you from that point that makes the difference in a supplier that you want to continue to order from.
Click to expand...
Indeed. And TRF's response to me has always been to replace the defective product as soon as they can.
 
Same here. However some times that seems to be a bit of a wait. But they do make good on the replacements.
 
I have had excellent responses and assistance from TRF and Moss over the years. No reflection on either.
As to that, I believe the current problem is the loose nut behind the (steering) wheel - i.e. me.
Measured the hub at 41.83mm; measured a salvage hub I had and had 41.37mm. May not be totally accurate at this time of morning but enough to show perhaps a different hub put on by PO. Caps fit on salvage hub but PO also had to use sealer to hold cap in place.
Submitted question to Moss Tech to see if there is another cap that may fit. Hubs seem to be working even if they are incorrect.
FYI, I am changing from wire to disc wheels. Have not found where the hub needs to be changed as well; just the studs.
 
Jayplum said:
FYI, I am changing from wire to disc wheels. Have not found where the hub needs to be changed as well; just the studs.
Click to expand...
That's right; the hubs only had different part numbers because they came with the studs loaded in them. Only the studs are actually different.

Changing the rear studs is lots of fun, though. The studs are threaded in from the face, then peened over in back like a big rivet. On the later cars (with front disc brakes), the hubs tend to "become one" with the shaft; even having the special factory puller is no guarantee of success in removing the hubs without ruining them.

My suggestion is to remove the hubs and shafts as an assembly (locktabs & 6 bolts behind the axle flange) to get access to the back of the studs. Then you can see what you're doing as you grind away as much as you can without damaging the hub; then unscrew the stud as far as it will go. Turn it back in and grind some more. Repeat as necessary.

The good news is you can leave the brakes in position and don't have to open the hydraulic system. The bad news is that you should recheck the axle end float (with a dial indicator) once you've got it back together. This would also be a good time to change the inner oil seals.

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