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TR4/4A got the Tr4 running, however.....Breather tube leak normal?

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Zitch

Zitch

Jedi Hopeful
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So I got the 63 tr4 running with some help. Brakes fixed, carbs rebuilt/synced. I've taken her to the Gas station and around the town I live. Wow she's fun to drive and you get some looks.

However when I park her in the Garage there is a 2" oil drip puddle under the breather tube is that normal? What causes this? I'm new to the British cars.

Thanks
Zitch
 
Not "normal" but unfortunately not that uncommon either. Most likely it indicates that the rings are not sealing well; either not seated after a rebuild or just worn out. Those steel wool air filters let a lot of dirt through, which can cause the rings & cylinder walls to wear out quickly.

Sometimes it will help to leave the oil level a bit low; halfway between the marks instead of right at the top mark.
 
Out of interest, my set up is not the breather tube but rather the set up with the rocker cover "feeding" oil vapor into the carbs (can never remember the correct term for that, closed?). Is there any alternative to the wire mesh filters I have?
I'd much prefer something that actually filters "stuff" better...

sorry if I'm diverting this thread!
 
JimTR4 said:
...Is there any alternative to the wire mesh filters I have?
Click to expand...

There are paper elements available but I just use foam sleeves:

ACKoozies_zps798b44d6.jpg


For the late TR4 (like yours & mine) the filters are smaller and I found the foam filter made for a ShopVac could be sliced into covers for those.
 
The Car sat for a year or so, not driven that often. Maybe she just needs to be run. I've maybe put 10 miles on her since I got her in January. Could a ring be stuck? Would a compression test tell me for sure?

Thanks,


TR3driver said:
Not "normal" but unfortunately not that uncommon either. Most likely it indicates that the rings are not sealing well; either not seated after a rebuild or just worn out. Those steel wool air filters let a lot of dirt through, which can cause the rings & cylinder walls to wear out quickly.

Sometimes it will help to leave the oil level a bit low; halfway between the marks instead of right at the top mark.
Click to expand...
 
My TR3 has a TR4 engine in it thus it does not have the breather tube. However, I'm getting oil coming out of the breather cap on the top of the valve cover. Is that the same worn ring indicator as when oil comes out the breather tube on the TR3 engine? Is there any way to stop that other than new rings? Can I put some foam under the breather cap to "catch" the oil?
Regards,
Bob
 
Zitch said:
The Car sat for a year or so, not driven that often. Maybe she just needs to be run. I've maybe put 10 miles on her since I got her in January. Could a ring be stuck? Would a compression test tell me for sure?
Click to expand...
Could be a stuck ring; but a compression test won't tell you the difference between a stuck ring and a worn-out one.

One thing you could try (although it would have been better before you started it) would be to remove the plugs and pour 1/4 cup or so of Marvel Mystery Oil down each plug hole. Let it sit like that overnight, then spin it once with the starter before putting the plugs back in (just in case the MMO hasn't drained completely into the crankcase past the rings). Of course it will smoke like crazy when you start it, but the MMO might loosen up the rings.

Then take a nice long drive, not just 10 miles, to get the oil thoroughly warmed up.
 
TuffTR250 said:
My TR3 has a TR4 engine in it thus it does not have the breather tube. However, I'm getting oil coming out of the breather cap on the top of the valve cover. Is that the same worn ring indicator as when oil comes out the breather tube on the TR3 engine? Is there any way to stop that other than new rings? Can I put some foam under the breather cap to "catch" the oil?
Regards,
Bob
Click to expand...
The early TR4 engines did have a breather tube. And the later TR4 engines had no tube and a valve cover with a cap that sealed ( like a radiator cap) to allow the venting to be directed to the intake. Sounds like you have a combination of each, which is one reason why you are getting the oil at the cap rather than breathing from the tube.
Charley
 
Sorry to hijack this thread! I'v only had my TR3 for a year. It appears the previous owner(s) did various "upgrades" like TR4 engine block and head, but retained the TR3 intake and exhaust manifolds, and the H6 SU carbs with metal screen air breathers. I did not realize the difference in valve covers but it looks like the PO also used the original TR3 valve cover with the big breather cap that sets on a stem at the front of the engine. I also have a TR4 transmission, which is nice since it has first gear syncho. Not sure what other hybrid mix I might have.
Regards,
Bob
 
Bob, did you have another question?

There are lots of mixes running around; my 56 TR3 is currently wearing the carbs from my 59 TR3A, plus a TR6 gearbox with a TR4 overdrive and a TR3 top cover. TR4 temp gauge, TR6 wheels (with TR3 covers), the list goes on. It's all part of the journey!

Someday, I would like to actually engineer a positive crankcase ventilation system for the TR that would work, with filtered fresh air being sucked into the crankcase most of the time, and the crankcase fumes always being routed where they will get burned. Somehow, Triumph never did quite get it right, IMO, even though they re-arranged it at least 5 or 6 times before finally inheriting a GM engine that had it right (TR8). But I'm a long way from even starting that project, so for now I've still got the ole road draft tube (and the attendant puddle underneath).
 
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