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Got my notice...

Nunyas

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I have 'til August to get my 'B to jump through California's Emissions hoops. It just burns my hide to know that I wouldn't have to smog the car this year if the "rolling 30" was still in effect... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif
 
And on the emissions note:

Bret- where'd you snag those hoses you have attached to the different emissions parts? The last time I went to Pep Boys, they didn't have any oil/fuel resistant hoses big enough to connect to the large fittings of the valve cover breather or the crank case breather.
 
What's the last year that doesn't have to pass emissions?
 
1975 is the last year that does not have to pass emissions in California now days.
 
oh yeah, I'm gonna have a list of parts for ya pretty soon too Tony... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
No problem....I'll be home fromHawaii in a few days...why don't you just reregister it using a '75 VIN?
 
[ QUOTE ]

Bret- where'd you snag those hoses you have attached to the different emissions parts? The last time I went to Pep Boys, they didn't have any oil/fuel resistant hoses big enough to connect to the large fittings of the valve cover breather or the crank case breather.

[/ QUOTE ]

NAPA has a pretty good selection of hoses - that’s where I got mine.

Also how do you dial your’s in? I still use a gas analyzer and have had great luck not having to return for retesting. Assuming everything (cat, air pump etc) is in good shape and working properly. It should be a simple tune up (valves, timing, idle etc) and perform an oil change. Then I simply shoot for that 5% using the tail pipe snuffer.

I'm lucky I guess as I don't have to jump though those hoops in March next year. But feel free to let me know if I can help in any way?

Good luck! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
hmmm... I suppose I could, but to do that wouldn't I have to find a '75 parts car to trade VIN's with? Sounds like an idea to keep in mind for the long term, but for the short term, I'm sure I can get through emissions testing with little effort; well a lot less than the last time I did it anyways.
 
I was waiting for parts at Team Triumph in Warren Oh. & sort of wondering around the parts piles.

I saw the most depressing label on a shoe box......
MGA CHASSIS PLATES

Inside the box were DOZENS of the tiny little tomb stones /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/angel.gif
 
Here we have a product called 'guaranteed to pass'...it's a fuel additive that guarantees you passing or double your money back, their still in business so I assume it works.

BTW: I've got a number of MGA plates myself....back when you could find many MGA's sitting in scrapyards or just abandoned, I used to go pull them off, along with most other useable parts
 
There should be a moment of respectful silence like before separating dog tags.
 
[ QUOTE ]
No problem....I'll be home fromHawaii in a few days...why don't you just reregister it using a '75 VIN?

[/ QUOTE ]
Hmm isn’t that a little illegal Tony /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
There should be a moment of respectful silence like before separating dog tags.

[/ QUOTE ]
They'll live on in my memory....and in some of the parts that are still alive in my car today......
ahhh, the good ole days....when a trip to the gravel pit could result in finding a perfectly good MGA in the bottom of the pit, or when you asked the junkyard guy for an MGA dash pad he knew what you were talking about.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]

Bret- where'd you snag those hoses you have attached to the different emissions parts? The last time I went to Pep Boys, they didn't have any oil/fuel resistant hoses big enough to connect to the large fittings of the valve cover breather or the crank case breather.

[/ QUOTE ]

NAPA has a pretty good selection of hoses - that’s where I got mine.

Also how do you dial your’s in? I still use a gas analyzer and have had great luck not having to return for retesting. Assuming everything (cat, air pump etc) is in good shape and working properly. It should be a simple tune up (valves, timing, idle etc) and perform an oil change. Then I simply shoot for that 5% using the tail pipe snuffer.

I'm lucky I guess as I don't have to jump though those hoops in March next year. But feel free to let me know if I can help in any way?

Good luck! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks for the tip. I'll have to swing by NAPA on my way home from work later this week to see if I can find the right size hoses.

I have one of those green box gas analyzers too. I tried using it the last time I smogged the car but it seemed like I had problems getting reliable readings out of mine. However, that might be because I did not block the air injection rail before analyzing the exhaust.

Also, I had a smog pump that seems to have been gutted out (spins but pumps nothing). So, even if I did achieve the right mixture setting, I would have popped too rich at the station, and I did. In the end, I leaned out the carb as far as it would go to get it to scrape through the testing last time.

This time ought to be a bit easier, IMO. Once I get the emissions parts I need on the car, I'm hoping it'll be a breeze. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
Ok the Gas Analyzer is a bit of a finicky chunk of hardware. But I’ve had great success with it once I got the hang of it.

My recommendation would be to rig up an independent 12V power source for the gas tester. That will speed things up for you & allow better flexibility in-between test runs and makes it really easy to zero the thing. Without relying on the car’s battery as the power source and waiting to re-zero the thing each time you turn it on & off. This one step will really improve the accuracy of the analyzer.

Also - I’d have that air pump checked out and if it is bad – replace it. Believe it or not they “do work” a simple test to determine if it’s working or not would be to take another tail pipe measurement after you've completed your adjustments & re-connected the pump. If you’ve done everything correctly you should read about zero or less (CO%). Anything over “0.0%” & you’ve probably got a problem with the air pump, the catalytic converter or both.

Good luck!
 
Rob,

Make sure that they run it through a pre-test first.
That way,if you fail,it won't be on the record.
If you fail,you'll have to go to the referee,& possibly have
to retest every year for the next 5 years.
Our TR6 failed,& I had to take it to the referee (we're in a non-smog county.we only smog when you sell a car).
We turned down the carbs so that it would barely run,
but it passed - & no retest!.

- Doug
 
Doug's got a point. While, my B hasn’t failed a smog test in the last 8 years (4 tests). I continue to be flagged to be tested at the State run “SMOG TEST ONLY” facility. Where they won’t give you any sort of feedback or advice and will only tell you if you failed or passed. So if you fail you have to either fix it yourself or take it to a mechanic, but you have to take it back to the test only station to get a re-test.

I suspect this is because after I first purchased the B – I tried unsuccessfully to get it tested myself for title transfer & registration. Now I didn’t know as much as I do now about the interworkings of the B’s emissions setup so I failed. And adding insult to injury I failed two more times before throwing in the towel & taking it to a local mechanic who “made it pass”. Ran like it was on its’ death bed when I got her back – but she passed.

Well it wasn’t until two years later that I discovered that he took a few “shortcuts”. Not wishing to cry over spilt milk as I was a little better prepared than I was the first time. Had her humming like she was brand new - but I failed again because the stupid tech didn’t check my timing correctly? Now I was PO’d because I knew better having set the timing myself that morning. So after going round & round with the tech & his boss – I finally got them to admit that the tech checked the timing at idle (850rpms) not at the 1500rpms as it says in the manual and on the emissions sticker under the bonnet. But while I won and got them to agree to a free re-test – it was too late because they’d already entered the failure into the system and that I’d have to come back the next day. Not knowing any better I brought her back in the next day and she passed with flying colors. Still wish I’d fought it a little harder because I still think this was the reason I have to take her in to the test only stations as I find it hard to believe that my vehicle has been selected randomly each time.
 
I had the same problem as Bret at a test only station. The tech read the timing at idle instead of 1500 rpm. Once they enter the info into the machine, there's no going back. The tech asked me if I did my own tune-ups and when I replied yes, he suggested that I put a timing light on it. I said I had just an hour earlier and after a short "discussion", he re-tested and the car passed.
I've been paying to have cars smogged since 1970, first just at transfer time, then every 2 years. I have usually had more than one car in the family, so for quite a while there's been at least one car that needs to be smogged every year. I've had 3 cars fail in all that time and all 3 failures were due to the testing tech making an error.

-Jim Brown
 
My DD's are coming up due soon...even number one year, odd the next....95 and 99 both being odd I have to do two this year...Not worried yet though, these cars will pass no problem....everything else 87 and old is exempt.
 
[ QUOTE ]
No problem....I'll be home fromHawaii in a few days...why don't you just reregister it using a '75 VIN?

Hmm isn’t that a little illegal Tony

[/ QUOTE ]

No, not a 'little'.....hehehehe

&, who's to know - it might actually be a '75 that was sold new in '76 & the dealer just made it a '76 on paper so he could sell the 'latest model' - dealers did that all the time regardless of the actual VIN....was that illegal?
 
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