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got a tool set! Now a sandblaster question = ]

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timbn2

timbn2

Jedi Hopeful
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well, got me a tool set...most likely more than i will need but o well... here it is:
https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...83798%26fvi%3D1

any one have experience with one of those home cabinet sandblasters, whether free-standing or bench top? what size is your compressor. Any issues?

i have an old Curtis 3x1-7/8x3 two piston pump with a 3hp Baldor motor on a 55 gal(?) tank. Im told it will put out about 12-14 cfm, but is to old to have any info on it about specifics.

thanks
 
Hi Tim,
There was a discussion on blast cabinets in the tool forum that may help.
 
I've a 3 HP compressor with a 100 Liter (I suspect its much smaller than your 55 gal. tank- if that's as big as a oil drum) Tank.

When I got it I believed that a 3 HP compressor producing roughly 14 CFM (9 free) would be adequate. In fact it was, but just barely. A skeptic may be excused for thinking that compressor manufacturers are optimistic when rating the output of their equipment- and the output produced may not be quite as much as advertized, and that air tool manufacturers match that optimism in estimating the demands of their equipment- and the input required may be rather more. So, I suspect I was comparing the absolute maximum available compressor output to the absolute minimum required tool demand, and was just managing.

For a cabinet you should be OK, for that was the main use I had for my set up, but for "big" jobs the compressor ran constantly and even then the pressure sometimes wasn't as much as I would have liked.

You might look at my website:

https://www.healeyjournal.com/pages/workshopandtoolspages/toolspages/airtools.html#Air%20Compressors

and

https://www.healeyjournal.com/pages/works...pers.html#Media
 
Tim,
You might look into a unit called a Barrel Blaster. I don't know if they are still made, but the fellow had a web site and sold blast cabinets made from 55 gallon drums. I've had mine for about 4 years and have used it quite a bit. I've run plastic media as well as glass and it works really well. I've got a 5hp 2stage compressor with an 80 gallon tank. He had the specs for what you need. What ever you get or build, be sure and have a vacuum outlet near the top of the box to pull out the dust. A $50 dedicated shop vac works well enough. Otherwise you won't be able to see what you are doing. I also take the window (most are made of lexan) and wrap it with kitchen plastic wrap on the inside, before I install the window. That makes the window last much longer, when the plastic gets etched or dirty you just change the wrap, not the whole window. I thought about buildig one myself, but for the price I paid for mine it was a "no-brainer".

Jon
'56 BN-2 (painting any day now)
 
I bought a cabinet top-blaster from harbor freight for about 100 bucks. It works ok on a compressor that puts out less than yours. You may have to stop and let it catch up. I blasted parts up to the size of brake drums. You will need to get a cheep shop vac to use with it as it is hard on the bearings. I put a light in mine to improve visability.
 
Your Curtis probably will keep up with a sandblast cabinet. 12-14 cfm (presumably at 90 psi) should be enough to handle most hand held air tools or the sandblast cabinet.

If you get a sandblast cabinet, you will also want to hook it up to a vaccum unit to keep the cabinet clear of dust while you work. Be sure to get a vacuum that does not put the electric motor in the path of the incoming dust. Otherwise, it will ruin the motor in short order.
 
Personal opinion. Anything under 5 hp isn't worth the price. At 5hp you can run a hose outside and blast something a little larger with reasonable results. You can count on a cabinet being too small at some point in time. The most important aspect of a blast cabinet is the vacuum assembly. The best is a cyclone style reclaimer. This is where the money is but it is worth it because it keeps your media clean and reusable. Unlike silica, which is good for knocking off crud, or beach sand which is better for all around blast etch, commercial blasting media can cut effectively as its size gets smaller, right up to dust. Look for a cabinet that has glass windows that can be covered with plastic sheet. Plastic windows are too expensive to replace every hour. Make sure that replacement tips are readily available for your gun. Everybody sells cabs and guns but nobody seems to pay mind to tips. Finally don't overlook a water filter for your air line. A humid day will plug everything up and rust your steel within seconds. Watch out for dust from cabinets. It will destroy everything in your garage or shop. Buy a cabinet for life, it's worth the money. 24 x 48 is a good size with double gloves. Get one made by the pros like Econoline etc. cjc
 
[ QUOTE ]
...beach sand which is better for all around blast etch...

[/ QUOTE ]

But there are serious issues involved with using beach sand. I wouldn't advise anyone to use it.

First issue is the silica content of the sand, which may lead to silicosis. I doubt that a reputable media seller would recommend using it.

The second problem with beach sand is the salt content, which, if used raw, leaves a deposit, which rusts under the shiny new paint.
 
Do not use sand, for the reasons stated by James Wilson. If you are prepping ferrous items, use aluminum oxide. If you use any silica based abrasive, you may have paint adhesion issues later on. Paint hates silica. If you are cleaning up aluminum or pot metal, use glass bead. It will make the surface dull, so consider cleaning polished items some other way. Aluminum oxide is a very aggressive abrasive, not suitable for cleaning soft metals.

For items that won't fit in the cabinet, you can use a sand pot, but you will need a hood and clothing that covers all of you, and you wind up with sand all over your body. Sandblasting is slow work, which is why I take most of my large items to a commercial blaster.
 
I have used fine dry bagged blasting sand for over 20 years on both cars and airplane fuselages and have never had any problems. NEVER use beach sand for obvious reasons. Go to a supplier and get a good grade of fine blasting sand. I have a 15 hp 2 stage compresser with a 100 gallon tank and use 115 lbs of pressure with a 100 lb pressurized blaster not a cheap suction blaster. I use glass beads in my cabinet and it is run by a 5 hp 2 stage on a 60 gallon tank. I used about 1,000 lbs to blast my Healey chassis and another 4 or 500 lbs for the body panels. I have never had any distortion or warping. After I get to white metal I hand sand with 220 aluminum oxide paper, wipe clean with reducer and epoxy prime. Get a good respirator (not a paper cheapie) and a hood. A Coors Light and a shower afterward complete the job. Skip
 
thanks for all the replys. all of my "big stuff" will go to a commercial blaster. I only want a small cabinet for all the little things so that i could feel like im making progress on this car. (and for only $170 shipped, i don't think i can go wrong)I know its a bit "out of order" but i have to pay off a $7000 new back yard first before any major work gets done, so anything small will feel like progress!
 
So how about a link or whatever to your blasting cabnet.
 
Wow, nice, and no reserve on them and he has a bunch, Hmmmmm.
 
I have the exact same cabinet. I've used it for a year. It works great but the interior light is really weak. Improvements (?) so far: put it on casters and fabricated a second screen from window screen to keep from losing small parts in the bin. Planned improvements: a brighter interior light and hinge the window to make it easier to replace the plastic blast protector.
 
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