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Good upgrades to a stock BJ8

Legal Bill

Jedi Knight
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Now that my car is all restored to original and I've driven it around a bit, I am formulating a list of upgrades that I think I will want to make to the car if I choose to drive it more than just look at it in the garage. All items are easily reversible if I want to return the car to bone stock. Here is my list so far. Any thoughts, good or bad about the items listed? Anything I missed?

1. Petronix under cap electronic ignition.

2. Spin on oil filter adapter.

3. In line gas filter (already done).

4. Negative camber shock bushings.

5. Slightly wider 72 spoke wheels and 185 tires (already done).

6. Texas cooler fan.

7. Coolant recovery tank.

8. Convert car to negative ground (not easily reversible due to the fuel pump and tach changes that are needed here).

9. Instal an alternator kit (kinda goes with number 8 above).

10. AM/FM stereo radio with two speakers mounted somewhere under the dash ( will probably not be doen until I convert the car, but who knows).

11. Numerically lower rear gears.

12. Pedastal for rear view mirror, probably the one with a clock in it.

13. Wing mirrors (already have them, just can't bring myself to drill holes in the fenders and yes, I know it is not easy to reverse this).

14. Wood steering wheel and gearshift knob (already done, but I need a different shift knob because the one they sent me is redish rather than walnutish in appearance).

15. Lucas Sports Coil (already installed).

16. Gear reduction starter (probably a long way off as the original one seems to do the job just fine at the moment).

17. Seat belts for the back seat if I can figure out how to mount them without drilling more holes in the car.

18. Halogen sealed beam headlights (already installed).



That's my list. Fire away!!!
 
Interesting list. I had a slow starter until I replaced the brushes. Now it works extremely well (as long as the battery is charged reasonably full). I also just read on the forum of a broken mount for a gear reduciton starter.

Drilling holes inside the car for rear seat belts should not be a problem. (different than drilling holes in fenders for mirrors). Especially if you give children rides in the back seat, you should have seat belts. (I have a two seater so don't face that issue).

Question: What 185 tires do you have and how do they fit within fenders? I have Michelin X 175 tires (on 72 spoke 5 inch wheels) no longer made that fit perfectly, but they are now 21 years old.
 
Legal Bill said:
...
17. Seat belts for the back seat if I can figure out how to mount them without drilling more holes in the car.
...

I have them, installed by previous owner.
Only negative aspect is they don't close with the hood down.
 
If you're going to drive it a lot, esp. on long road trips, consider installing an electronic SU fuel pump--if you don't have one or an aftermarket already--and carry your points pump for a spare. I put around 5K miles/year on my BJ8 and over the years the fuel pump has caused the most problems.
 
Hey Bill,
I'd go for the spin on oil filter adapter as the first and easiest thing to put on that really makes that job a snap versus the original oil filter set up. I put in the Petronix module and very happy with the results. Some recommend carrying an extra module in your "tool kit" in case the first one goes out but they are super reliable from everything I have read about them. Then I would go with the electronic fuel pump as Bob recommended. If you want it to look original go with the SU version but that is pretty pricey. Otherwise go with a facet pump. Have used them for over 30 years in various LBC's. If you have any running hot issues definitely go with the Texas Cooler fan. Works well.
Good luck and love your articles in AHCA Marque magazine.
Mike
 
Legal Bill said:
Now that my car is all restored to original and I've driven it around a bit, I am formulating a list of upgrades that I think I will want to make to the car if I choose to drive it more than just look at it in the garage. All items are easily reversible if I want to return the car to bone stock. Here is my list so far. Any thoughts, good or bad about the items listed? Anything I missed?

1. Petronix under cap electronic ignition.--YES

2. Spin on oil filter adapter.---OPTIONAL

3. In line gas filter (already done).

4. Negative camber shock bushings.---YES

5. Slightly wider 72 spoke wheels and 185 tires (already done).

6. Texas cooler fan.---YES or an upgraded one

7. Coolant recovery tank.----YES

8. Convert car to negative ground (not easily reversible due to the fuel pump and tach changes that are needed here).--
-YES can do it yourself.

9. Instal an alternator kit (kinda goes with number 8 above).
Nice but I have never needed one-----optional

10. AM/FM stereo radio with two speakers mounted somewhere under the dash ( will probably not be doen until I convert the car, but who knows).---YES simplified by # 8

11. Numerically lower rear gears.-----Optional

12. Pedastal for rear view mirror, probably the one with a clock in it. :rolleyes:

13. Wing mirrors (already have them, just can't bring myself to drill holes in the fenders and yes, I know it is not easy to reverse this).-----YES Talbot Bullet type

14. Wood steering wheel and gearshift knob (already done, but I need a different shift knob because the one they sent me is redish rather than walnutish in appearance).

15. Lucas Sports Coil (already installed).---Absolutely

16. Gear reduction starter (probably a long way off as the original one seems to do the job just fine at the moment).----NAH Never needed one ----NO!!!

17. Seat belts for the back seat if I can figure out how to mount them without drilling more holes in the car.

Car is already provided fastening points for seat belts-????

18. Halogen sealed beam headlights (already installed).

19. Electronic SU Fuel Pump.



That's my list. Fire away!!!--------BOOM !!!--Keoke--- :laugh:
 
My thoughts:

1. Petronix under cap electronic ignition. - I have heard that the trigger plate for the Petronix is thick enough that it lifts the rotor, causing the carbon pin(brush in the center of the cap to get pushed too far up. Perhaps it's a simple as shortening the carbon pin. I have the Crane system that doesn't have this problem.

2. Spin on oil filter adapter. - Absolutely.

3. In line gas filter (already done). - Absolutely.

4. Negative camber shock bushings. - Yes, but I would also fit a heavier front anti-sway bar. With negative instead of positive camber, the rear end will become limiting in cornering and you will tend toward oversteer. The heavier anti-sway bar will bring the handling back to neutral and you will corner flatter and better. Use poly bushings on the end links for the anti-sway bar so it has an immediate effect. Moss now sells black ones.

5. Slightly wider 72 spoke wheels and 185 tires (already done). - Yes.

6. Texas cooler fan. - Yes.

7. Coolant recovery tank. - Absolutely.

8. Convert car to negative ground (not easily reversible due to the fuel pump and tach changes that are needed here). - Absolutely.

9. Instal an alternator kit (kinda goes with number 8 above). - Yes, I have one and it makes running lights a much better experience.

10. AM/FM stereo radio with two speakers mounted somewhere under the dash ( will probably not be doen until I convert the car, but who knows). - Personal preference; I couldn't hear one anyway.

11. Numerically lower rear gears. - Then you would have to change the speedometer. Only if you drive a lot.

12. Pedastal for rear view mirror, probably the one with a clock in it. - I understand these are necessary. Just make sure the clock is a good one.

13. Wing mirrors (already have them, just can't bring myself to drill holes in the fenders and yes, I know it is not easy to reverse this). - I have wing mirrors, came with the car, flat on the left and concave on the right. I don't find them that useful because they are so far away. I would mounting on the door(s).

14. Wood steering wheel and gearshift knob (already done, but I need a different shift knob because the one they sent me is redish rather than walnutish in appearance). - I have a Moto-Lita wood wheel covered with leather and a rally knob with the OD switch on it. I prefer having the switch on the knob knob to the switch on the dash, which I now use to dip the headlights. My panel switch now has high, low and flash. I like it better than the foot switch. I use the foot switch mount to attach a left-foot dead pedal which makes cruising more comfortable.

15. Lucas Sports Coil (already installed). - Yes.

16. Gear reduction starter (probably a long way off as the original one seems to do the job just fine at the moment). - I have one and it works great.

17. Seat belts for the back seat if I can figure out how to mount them without drilling more holes in the car. - Yes, I use mine to tie stuff down so it stays put. I don't want my lunch cooler hitting me in the back of the head.

18. Halogen sealed beam headlights (already installed). - Did you install relays to activate them and take the heavy electrical load off the panel switch? I consider that more important.

Fog/Driving Lights and badge bar?

Fuses for the fuel pump and overdrive.
 
Bob_Spidell said:
If you're going to drive it a lot, esp. on long road trips, consider installing an electronic SU fuel pump--if you don't have one or an aftermarket already--and carry your points pump for a spare. I put around 5K miles/year on my BJ8 and over the years the fuel pump has caused the most problems.

Good catch. I should have included a back up fuel pump.
 
John Turney said:
My thoughts:

1. Petronix under cap electronic ignition. - I have heard that the trigger plate for the Petronix is thick enough that it lifts the rotor, causing the carbon pin(brush in the center of the cap to get pushed too far up. Perhaps it's a simple as shortening the carbon pin. I have the Crane system that doesn't have this problem.

2. Spin on oil filter adapter. - Absolutely.

3. In line gas filter (already done). - Absolutely.

4. Negative camber shock bushings. - Yes, but I would also fit a heavier front anti-sway bar. With negative instead of positive camber, the rear end will become limiting in cornering and you will tend toward oversteer. The heavier anti-sway bar will bring the handling back to neutral and you will corner flatter and better. Use poly bushings on the end links for the anti-sway bar so it has an immediate effect. Moss now sells black ones.

5. Slightly wider 72 spoke wheels and 185 tires (already done). - Yes.

6. Texas cooler fan. - Yes.

7. Coolant recovery tank. - Absolutely.

8. Convert car to negative ground (not easily reversible due to the fuel pump and tach changes that are needed here). - Absolutely.

9. Instal an alternator kit (kinda goes with number 8 above). - Yes, I have one and it makes running lights a much better experience.

10. AM/FM stereo radio with two speakers mounted somewhere under the dash ( will probably not be doen until I convert the car, but who knows). - Personal preference; I couldn't hear one anyway.

11. Numerically lower rear gears. - Then you would have to change the speedometer. Only if you drive a lot.

12. Pedastal for rear view mirror, probably the one with a clock in it. - I understand these are necessary. Just make sure the clock is a good one.

13. Wing mirrors (already have them, just can't bring myself to drill holes in the fenders and yes, I know it is not easy to reverse this). - I have wing mirrors, came with the car, flat on the left and concave on the right. I don't find them that useful because they are so far away. I would mounting on the door(s).

14. Wood steering wheel and gearshift knob (already done, but I need a different shift knob because the one they sent me is redish rather than walnutish in appearance). - I have a Moto-Lita wood wheel covered with leather and a rally knob with the OD switch on it. I prefer having the switch on the knob knob to the switch on the dash, which I now use to dip the headlights. My panel switch now has high, low and flash. I like it better than the foot switch. I use the foot switch mount to attach a left-foot dead pedal which makes cruising more comfortable.

15. Lucas Sports Coil (already installed). - Yes.

16. Gear reduction starter (probably a long way off as the original one seems to do the job just fine at the moment). - I have one and it works great.

17. Seat belts for the back seat if I can figure out how to mount them without drilling more holes in the car. - Yes, I use mine to tie stuff down so it stays put. I don't want my lunch cooler hitting me in the back of the head.

18. Halogen sealed beam headlights (already installed). - Did you install relays to activate them and take the heavy electrical load off the panel switch? I consider that more important.

Fog/Driving Lights and badge bar?

Fuses for the fuel pump and overdrive.

Thanks John, great points. No, I did not add a relay for the headlights. Do I need one or two and where does it go?
 
Keoke said:
Legal Bill said:
Now that my car is all restored to original and I've driven it around a bit, I am formulating a list of upgrades that I think I will want to make to the car if I choose to drive it more than just look at it in the garage. All items are easily reversible if I want to return the car to bone stock. Here is my list so far. Any thoughts, good or bad about the items listed? Anything I missed?

1. Petronix under cap electronic ignition.--YES

2. Spin on oil filter adapter.---OPTIONAL

3. In line gas filter (already done).

4. Negative camber shock bushings.---YES

5. Slightly wider 72 spoke wheels and 185 tires (already done).

6. Texas cooler fan.---YES or an upgraded one

7. Coolant recovery tank.----YES

8. Convert car to negative ground (not easily reversible due to the fuel pump and tach changes that are needed here).--
-YES can do it yourself.

9. Instal an alternator kit (kinda goes with number 8 above).
Nice but I have never needed one-----optional

10. AM/FM stereo radio with two speakers mounted somewhere under the dash ( will probably not be doen until I convert the car, but who knows).---YES simplified by # 8

11. Numerically lower rear gears.-----Optional

12. Pedastal for rear view mirror, probably the one with a clock in it. :rolleyes:

13. Wing mirrors (already have them, just can't bring myself to drill holes in the fenders and yes, I know it is not easy to reverse this).-----YES Talbot Bullet type

14. Wood steering wheel and gearshift knob (already done, but I need a different shift knob because the one they sent me is redish rather than walnutish in appearance).

15. Lucas Sports Coil (already installed).---Absolutely

16. Gear reduction starter (probably a long way off as the original one seems to do the job just fine at the moment).----NAH Never needed one ----NO!!!

17. Seat belts for the back seat if I can figure out how to mount them without drilling more holes in the car.

Car is already provided fastening points for seat belts-????

18. Halogen sealed beam headlights (already installed).

19. Electronic SU Fuel Pump.



That's my list. Fire away!!!--------BOOM !!!--Keoke--- :laugh:

Thanks Keoke.
 
Hi Bill,

Two comments on your list and one addition.

Many years ago (too many to count) I worked for a local crash recovery company straight out of college. Those were the days with few seat belts and no passive safety (a little like a Healey is today). Anyhoo having been sent to pick up a crashed 60's sports car that suffered a massive frontender, we were faced with a buckled, shattered and splintered wooden wheel with a lot of the drivers' palms still stuck to what was left of the wheel. Secondly the guy had only a lap strap so his face hit the winscreen and did more more damage but not as much as the lap strap nearly cutting him in half. They had to rebuild his face, hands and remove about 20 feet of exploded intestine.

So my recommendation would be to stick with your leather covered wheel and if you haven't got 3-point or more seat belts then get them.

The addition is to consider is a better Healey seat that has a headrest. Discussing the subject with Pete Farmer in the UK he is of the opinion that most minor Healey accidents are tailenders (probably partly due to the dim lighting and signals) and the the most 'popular' Healey injury, apart from grazed knuckles and third degree burns to the feet, is whiplash. I've got Miata seats with removable headrests which are pretty good but not perfect.

Just my 5 pennorth'

Cheers,

Ian
 
John, thanks for the link. I printed it out, in color no less! Did you notice a significant difference in the brightness of your head light beams with the addition of the relays?
 
Bill,

You will notice an improvement in light emission of standard 65W Halogens, but even better, you will increase your electrical safety when installing the 65W, or even the 100W European Halogens, while reducing the draw on your aging switches. Additionally, the change is reversible with your original harness still in place.

Bill, before you do anything, examine the gauge of your original wiring and determine if you are comfortable (after you’ve spent so much money and time) putting your Halogens and driving lights through those unfused circuits.

Good luck,
Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
Thanks Ray. I do have a replacement harness, but the gauge of the wire is as original. The switches are mostly original, so they may have a problem. I won't be adding driving lights, but I do have the halogen sealed beams already in place. I felt the low beams looked no brighter than conventional sealed beams and I was wondering why. Perhaps it is the gauge of the wire??
 
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