Good time for engine tuning principles?

[2wrench]

I'm not sure about Sears.

I already have a quality dial gauge but it has no magnetic
arm attachment. I'll be buggered if I can figure out how
to use my gauge to measure my thrust washer's end float.
They worry me constantly.

Any suggestions?

d

Dale: If you want to go cheapo on the dial gauge, let
me know. I'll order and ship one for you.

I'm gaining a better understanding of how it is used, I
think. When I get one in my hands and work with it, I'll
post some pics.

My cost was only $23.15 including shipping. Great deal.
I swear, we'll work together on this thrust washer thing.
It just seems to be nagging you so. The blind leading the
blind, eh? I think I understand, though.

 

[2wrench]

Easy enough. Check your email for pdf file.

Brosky: Was this note meant for me? You mean to send a
pdf file to me? I didn't get it. Ohhh, hmmm, maybe I better
check my "junk" e-mail file. It could have gotten redirected
there. I'll let you know....or maybe you were speaking to
another Forum member?

Anyway, thanks for that g-r-e-a-t picture of the dial
indicator. I ordered the cheapo, cause I figure I ain't gonna
be using it that much. Should hold up for my demands.

 

[70herald]

Randall: Also visited the cranecams.com web site
on finding TDC. I found it a bit confusing. It
seems to address degreeing (finding TDC?) of the cam.

My read of the Bently Manual describes a method of
finding TDC on the flywheel first utilizing the dial
indicator, measuring twice the movement to the top the
number one piston by first rotating right, measure and mark;
rotating left, measure and mark; splitting the difference
and finally placing the final TDC mark right between
the two (and is this split measurement done with a
tape measure or some other method?)

A tape measure would be just fine.
On the Herald engine, I just went back and forth a number of times and eyeballed it with my dial indicator. I can assure you that this was more accurate than what the factory did.

My understanding is now once this mark is found and
noted, the cam is then installed and oriented per
the manual (for sake of brevity).

So, it seems as if crancame addresses degreeing the cam
in situations other than an engine rebuild. Am I
wrong? Does degreeing the cam have to be done as
well after this first step of finding TDC is done
as described in the Bently Manual on the flywheel/backplate?

Well since you are trying to put this back together, the next step is going to be positioning the cam at the correct angle. The Bently manual is fairly clear as to how to do this. Of course they assume that you already have the head on, but the procedure is fairly simple. Your last step is going to be orienting the cam gear which has the holes drilled such that each different position gives a slightly different relation between the crank and the cam. You have to fined the closest. I set mine so that as the chain stretches it will move closer to "perfect". Perfection is not really possible with the stock system.

 

[TR3driver]

Randall: Also visited the cranecams.com web site
on finding TDC. I found it a bit confusing. It
seems to address degreeing (finding TDC?) of the cam.

The entire article is about degreeing the cam, only the short section on finding TDC is relevant to finding TDC. But accurately finding TDC is part of accurately degreeing the cam.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]My read of the Bently Manual describes a method of
finding TDC on the flywheel first utilizing the dial
indicator, measuring twice the movement to the top the
number one piston by first rotating right, measure and mark;
rotating left, measure and mark; splitting the difference
and finally placing the final TDC mark right between
the two[/QUOTE]That's effectively equivalent to the procedure on the Crane Cams site. The only real difference is that Crane suggests using a piston stop rather than a dial indicator ... removes one potential source of operator error.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] (and is this split measurement done with a tape measure or some other method?)[/QUOTE]A tape measure used with care will do. A degree wheel might be a little bit better, but not worth it for a stock setup IMO. (You don't get that much control over cam timing anyway.)<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]So, it seems as if crancame addresses degreeing the cam in situations other than an engine rebuild. Am I
wrong? Does degreeing the cam have to be done as
well after this first step of finding TDC is done
as described in the Bently Manual on the flywheel/backplate?[/QUOTE]For an ordinary 'street' rebuild, no need to 'degree' the cam, IMO. But racers like to be sure they are getting every last 0.1 horsepower, and so like to double-check cam profiles. Sometimes mistakes are made when grinding cams, and checking each lobe for timing and lift is the way to be sure yours is just right. Also, many performance cams aren't supposed to be set "straight up" the way the Bentley assumes.

But for a stock cam and a street motor, the Bentley procedure is fine.