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good quality bias ply tire

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LuckyLuke

LuckyLuke

Senior Member
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After a bad experience with the 15 X 6.40 Bias ply tires made by Excelsior I’m now looking for a good quality bias ply tire of a different brand. My goal is to find a drivable tire with a diameter of 27” and relative narrow width. The handling of the Excelsior was fine with its thick side walls, the problem was a poor cast quality and being out of round by ¼ inch. Please spare me with the recommendation to use radial tires unless you know of one with the size of 15X195-80.
Thanks
 
Do not just go by diameter, go with circumference. As the Jags use 185/15, a 205/70/15 has the same circumference and the speedometer is still accurate. Measure your circumference and go to Coker Tire or Tire Rack and find something that matches. Radials will give you more mpg and some handling but only if you have a newer bushed suspension. Most Concours accept any replacement tire now. Not many bias tires out there any more. I have the 6.40/15 on my Mark 1, Remington and Uniroyal. They have been on the car for 35 years, but no I do not drive on them, haven't researched the correct equivalant. Plan on using radials as it will be used for some competition events.
 
Thanks for your input. Cocker has a lot of bias ply tires in the size I want (15X 6.40 or 6.00) , but I like to find which one is the most drivable based on someone's experience.


By the way the tire diameter and circumference are directly proportional by 3.14 (∏).
 
I am trying to make a tire and wheel decision for my XK 120 replica project. I really want a steel wheel, so that part of the decision is cut in granite. I'm looking for a correct period look. The original rims for a XK 120 were 16 x 6. The replica platform is a 94 XJS so the wheels need to fit that hub. I have no reason to exclude either 15" or 16" tires or rims, other than long term cost and availability. The distance from the face of the hub to the centerline of the ball joints is 4 1/2". I think that limits the offset/rim width but have not figured out what that leaves me with. Any advice is appreciated.
 
Chevy rims fit the pattern, specifically Camaro. Remember seeing a 1988 XJS with the camaro sport wheels.
 
equiprx said:
I am trying to make a tire and wheel decision for my XK 120 replica project. I really want a steel wheel, so that part of the decision is cut in granite...... Any advice is appreciated.
Click to expand...

Try Diamond Racing Wheels for steel wheels.

I got them to build skinny (3.5" X 15") steel wheels for my Austin Seven Special Replica. They can build almost anyting with any bolt pattern and offset. Prices are decent too.

https://www.diamondracingwheels.com/TOC.htm
 
Thanks to both Larry and Nial for informative responses.
I had heard that some Chevy wheels fit but didn't know if it meant all models. I have seen Jaguar wheels installed on one corvette, but as you know what goes one way may not go the other. Does that inter-changeability include the center hole? I went to the Diamond Wheel site and it looks as though that is going to be the only way for me to get all the variables I need. and they don't seem to be very expensive for the basics.
As it stands now, I'm looking at a 16x7 solid steel wheel.
It needs the mounting arrangement of an XJS/Camaro.
Offset to the centerline of contact patch is +1.0"
It needs to accept a 10 3/16" I.D. original hubcap.
I have it in the back of my mind somewhere that 16" tires are easier to get or cheaper than 15". Is there any reason to believe this? I don't want to travel down a road I don't need to go, if I can make that decision with some authority now. I don't think I'm married to the 16" size other than it would be period correct for the XK120 and that is the wheel size I have on everything else so tire circumference is consistent. The other question involves offset. Someone explained to me that the offset puts the center of the tire contact patch over the centerline of the turning axis of each wheel or at least that was the way I understood the concept. I measured this on the XJS and I have a hard time believing I got the concept right. That would mean the C/L of the wheels are 1" outside of that axis. I also won't know if this arrangement will conflict with the fender wells of the replica, until I get the suspension and panels mounted on the frame and I won't expect that to happen in the near future since the kit is just leaving Michigan as of yesterday. If I need to, I don't have any problem going with a narrower wheel with a zero offset as it should just make for a neutral wheel response if I am not assuming too much.
Thanks again to all for some very useful information.
Steve D'Angelo
 
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