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Going for a little walk

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Well another day another 20km. Weather was dramatically warmer so now I am missing cooler weather. Basically walked 4 km climbed a hill ( called a Meseta - the whole area is called the Meseta) walked across the plateau- down the other side- 5 more km and then lunch and then 8 or so more till we stopped.

No shade, one town and lots of sun.

In today’s pics you will see the path up the Meseta- at the top you will see the post there as well as bizarrely, a Land Rover. Looking back you can see - on the horizon a hill and on top of the hill you can just see the castle ruins I posted the pic of yesterday. Then finally the path ahead coming down. And finally a happy peregrino with his reward at the end of the day.
 
JPSmit said:
Well another day another 20km. Weather was dramatically warmer so now I am missing cooler weather. Basically walked 4 km climbed a hill ( called a Meseta - the whole area is called the Meseta) walked across the plateau- down the other side- 5 more km and then lunch and then 8 or so more till we stopped.

No shade, one town and lots of sun.

In today’s pics you will see the path up the Meseta- at the top you will see the post there as well as bizarrely, a Land Rover. Looking back you can see - on the horizon a hill and on top of the hill you can just see the castle ruins I posted the pic of yesterday. Then finally the path ahead coming down. And finally a happy peregrino with his reward at the end of the day.
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Next set.

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Today’s dispatch. Had a lovely dinner last night in the albergue next door - Americans New Zealand Germany France and Austria at the table.

this morning we left an hour earlier and it really paid off weather wise. We spent the first hour or so walking along a lovely canal- one that is apparently being restored. Then through a town and along a brand new highway. After a few km came the opportunity to continue along the highway or walk off the highway “along a tree lined shady path alongside the river.” WE chose this option- the book lied. Mostly open and hot. However (see pic) walking through a tiny hamlet we met this older man who was giving out fresh almonds- cracking them in their shell! He gave us a lovely blessing in our “credentials “ and off we went. “Love God, Love others and it will come back to you.” Of course we have no idea what he was saying it this kind of unexpected encounter is one of the blessings of the Camino. After lunch it was a straight walk down the highway to Carrion de los Condes, tonight’s stop. We thought we were doing awesome until we realized we were one town off in our reckoning. So we stopped- had a coke to explore our options. As we sat a cab rolled up for another exhausted pilgrim. Sometimes the solution is obvious. And 6 euros and 10 minutes later we were in our hostel. (We have about 20 km per day in these feet - over that makes everyone miserable- so there have been/will be a couple of cab rides or bus trips to make this possible.)

blessings all!
 
Oh and I should explain. When you start the Camino you start with an empty Credentials folder. Everywhere you go - and I mean everywhere (hotels/restaurant/stores/even the guy with the almonds) you get stamps added. Part of this is a record of the trip (badges we need our stinkin badges) but when you get to Santiago they want to see an uninterrupted list across the Camino (we are using the same one as we started with in 2012. ) technically they need to see two stamps per day for the last 100 km to receive the certificate- and an indulgence (or one per day if you have traveled longer)

so a lovely part art of the trip.
 
Two days ago at supper, Amanda (from Phoenix) said “you have to walk your own Camino.” Interesting how true this is. Today we didn’t walk we rode - the bus that is from Carrion de los Condes to León. This partly to get us back on schedule but mostly because the Meseta is really boring (like walking across oklahoma). And because the next days had long distances with no bathrooms - not so bad for boys but for girls...

so with only a little guilt we boarded the bus. Of course there were other peregrinos some hobbling because of injuries. One woman (typical Camino story) retired a year ago with plans to travel the world with her husband- the day the money from her business went into the bank he came home from work said “it’s cold, I’ll make a fire and then I’m leaving you.” And he did- she has been crying almost the whole trip- and already knows she will walk it again.

our day then was Churches- specifically the cathedral in Leon. Basil will post two sets- the first Romanesque in Carrion and the second gothic in Leon- it is barely possible to imagine them being only about 100 years apart in age. The cathedral was magnificent! Basil also has a pic of the pregnant Madonna which I have never seen before. All in all a restful day but ready to walk again tomorrow.
 
JPSmit said:
Two days ago at supper, Amanda (from Phoenix) said “you have to walk your own Camino.” Interesting how true this is. Today we didn’t walk we rode - the bus that is from Carrion de los Condes to León. This partly to get us back on schedule but mostly because the Meseta is really boring (like walking across oklahoma). And because the next days had long distances with no bathrooms - not so bad for boys but for girls...

so with only a little guilt we boarded the bus. Of course there were other peregrinos some hobbling because of injuries. One woman (typical Camino story) retired a year ago with plans to travel the world with her husband- the day the money from her business went into the bank he came home from work said “it’s cold, I’ll make a fire and then I’m leaving you.” And he did- she has been crying almost the whole trip- and already knows she will walk it again.

our day then was Churches- specifically the cathedral in Leon. Basil will post two sets- the first Romanesque in Carrion and the second gothic in Leon- it is barely possible to imagine them being only about 100 years apart in age. The cathedral was magnificent! Basil also has a pic of the pregnant Madonna which I have never seen before. All in all a restful day but ready to walk again tomorrow.
Click to expand...


Unfortunately, my wife and I are preparing to depart ourselves for a trip (not as exciting as JP's) and I didn't have time to post today's images in the forum. However, they are still updated with the latest on the Flickr Album I set up for JP:

https://flic.kr/s/aHsmf7rCKh
 
Hey friends just getting caught up. My phone charger died and while I haven’t got a new one at least it is now charged. It has been a slightly odd couple of days as the last two nights we have stayed at what are essentially truck stops on the edge of town. Not on purpose mind but Booking.com is not always clear. They have been fine but not exactly the Camino experience . We have left Leon and tonight are in Rabanal del Camino- much nicer and quieter. We are in a new province and it is amazing what changes- here houses are stones not stucco and we are noticeably closer to the mountains.

since Leon more people also- tours- they have a service where for 5 euros they will transfer your pack to your next night accommodations- we did it today as it was a long hike - 25 km and Tori had some new blisters. So not unusual but in the lobby where we had breakfast there must have been 20 suitcases waiting for the same service-suitcases! A very different clientele. That said still a lovely walk and we are really enjoying it now. We realize the first week is agony the second week is work but now it is a pleasure. It is hard to believe we are in the second half of the journey- it seemed so long 17 days ago and so short now.

When the pics come they are a medieval bridge and the cathedral as well as the Bishop’s house from Astorga. The Bishop’s house- the really “light “ pics - was designed by Gaudi and was astonishing both for its brightness and its style. In the basement was a display of roadside cairns and signs and symbols going back to when it was a Roman road- makes you realize how old this area really is:

cheers all
 
Quick update. In this town, the church has been here since the 12 century- reputed to have been built by the knights templar- it was closed for a while but has reopened under the care of Benedictine monks from Austria- went to vespers tonight- in six languages but mostly Latin- Gregorian chants. It was lovely. The Church has been stabilized but was missing bits of plaster etc - a remarkable end to a lovely day
 
Still in awe of your wonderful journey. Especially took note of your comment first week - agony, second week - work and now pleasure. Kudoes to the two of you. P.S. Wonderful photos and thanks Boss for posting them.
 
Thanks for the feedback- it is nice to know people find this all interesting. Speaking of interesting a very interesting day. Got up and the temperature was one degree over freezing- and only got about 5’deg warmer. Today we climbed another mountain- the actual steepness wasn’t so bad but almost the whole day was walking up or down in the equivalent of a shale washout. Very uncomfortable walking. Tori messed up her knee some so is resting with Advil.

so the first town we came to we stopped for coffee and in the tiny shop bought gloves and a toque! In Spain in may. We came out to snow and on and off through the day had ice pellets- and a lot of wind. On the plus side the views from the top of the mountain were astonishing and we came to the iron cross.

the iron cross is basically the highest point on the Camino and people bring stones from all over the world to leave there. I have had a stone sitting in my seashell on my office shelf since 2012 waiting to be left there - so today felt very much like a promise kept. Not sure if I mentioned that the name of the destination is Santiago de Compostela- seashell so most pilgrims tie a seashell to their packs - ours aren’t tied but are inside.

once over the mountain we stopped for lunch- and who should walk in but friends from Edmonton- we thought we were a day apart- always amazed how that works!

So camino one Tori’s knee zero but other than that a pretty good day and tomorrow should be a
much shorter walk. When Basil gets to the pics they will be the iron cross - the vista- and the vespers Church from yesterday.

onward! (And Tom we were high enough that we were briefly onward through the fog! :smile: )
 
Uploaded the rest from yesterday in post 70 above. These below are pics I received this morning.



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Thanks again Basil.

so this afternoon we were at lunch (as mentioned) and I had the
most hysterical exchange trying to pay our bill - because we had changed tables as our friends came it. It involved sorting out the order and then getting the change right and so on. I start here because I feel like what I experience here is kind of the opposite of North Americans- we think if we talk slower and louder people will understand. In Spain it feels like if people talk faster and louder then maybe we will understand. I mention this because when we got to the hotel the woman who registered us had no English at all and did the same thing and just kept on talking- non stop- assuming I would eventually get it. However there was another couple there and he spoke a tiny bit of English. So, once we were
in our room and this guy was still around I asked him as best as possible if there was somewhere I could find a European plug with a USB adapter to charge the phone. Well the owner had one I could borrow but no none are available in a town of 700.

Not a problem tomorrow is a small city so I will find one there. Well just a minute ago there was a knock on the door and it was this couple. They had gone out somewhere and bought me an adapter somehow and brought it and gave it to
me - as a gift.

that for me is the particular wonder of the Camino!
 
JP, just to confirm: I find this highly interesting, and thank you for the updates and photos!!
 
Hello JP

This is a great story/journey. The photos are great. People in the US have a hard time comprehending buildings being in continuous use for 900 years.

I think that Oliver Schroer said during his interview with Canadian TV that it gives you great clarity. You walk and there are no normal daily life things to distract you.

How are you managing money? ATMs or cash?

David
 
Glad people are enjoying it- and I know what you mean about 900 year old buildings- today apparently we are to pass a Roman cistern still in use.

in terms of money it is mostly cash. We do hit an atm every few days which is only slightly challenging as we bank at an obscure bank in Canada so the card doesn’t work everywhere. That said we find it surprisingly easy and reasonable. Most albergues are 8-10 euros per night- last night supper (three course meal with wine and coffee) was 23’euros for two.
cafe con leche (latte) is one euro 30 and a chocolate croissant about the same. There isn’t really tipping here either as it seems part of the bill.

one good/bad thing is that we have pretty much completely switched to guest houses- we are past sleeping 24 to a room -‘so about 40 euros per night. Many take visa. The good is that we have reservations every night (Booking.com is amazing) the bad is that we can’t just walk till we stop anymore and do miss some of the albergue community experience.

i will say that the Camino is getting busier. In 2012 when we started 192000 people walked it - last year 300000. So reservations are becoming more and more important.
 
A different sort of day today- first off still cold and a short day so no rush. We met friends for breakfast and walked together into Ponferrada- a town of about 70000. One of our friends went to find a Mass and the rest of us went to the recently restored Templar castle. After that we started out of the city. It is weird walking in a city especially on a Sunday everyone is out and relaxing and it - and all the signs and traffic and noise make it very hard to focus on the walk. It can also be hard to keep track of Camino signs.

we walked some out of town though I think we are still in the suburbs to be honest. We came to the largish town where out Hostal was and walked all the way through without finding it. Turns out it was 2.5 km out of town in the wrong direction- so we finally took a cab to get there. Then the room was freezing so after a room change things finally settled. Had a nice supper and soon off to bed but we s remarkable how easily things get jangled!

one thing Of interest was that as we came out of the castle about a dozen plus antique and classic bicycles rolled up with riders in period costumes- it was awesome- kind of like a cruise day for bikes.

tomorrow I think we will taxi again to our starting point - and I have already confirmed that tomorrow night we are just n town!
 
Today was lovely. Kind of a short day which is still 20 km. Did taxi to the starting point- and the taxi driver gave us each taxi company key chains as souvenirs. We walked to the next village where while having coffee our friends walked in. It was a lovely walk through vineyards and fields- had a tiny bit of rain and got a rainbow. After lunch it was about 1 1/2 hours to our stop for the night. The last half next to a road but more importantly next to a lovely brook and whispering trees - and finally warm again!

In other news it might be of interest to see where we stay - so a poor picture of the room. Very lovely and quaint. Also a picture of our packs. These we carry pretty much every day and with our walking poles represent our current worldly goods. Tori’s weighs 12 pounds and mine closer to 18. I carry the clothes I wear (pants with zip off leg bottoms) and another set - so in total 2 pairs pants 2 t shirts 2 underwear 1 sweater 3 pairs of socks and an extra collared shirt for evening. I have my hiking shoes and a pair of flip flops. I have a very lightweight sleeping bag- sheet on bottom and padded on top and a hiking towel.Other than medicine and toiletries and a coat that is it - so while I have a 50 litre bag it is not much more than half full - plus the bulk of the coat.

One of the things you do is compare pack size if only in your mind and one of the things that infuriates me about the
movie “The Way” is that Martín Sheens bag is way too big and way too heavy.
 
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