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godda have tunes!

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i just installed a cd\receiver in my bj7,didnt take long to figure out why my radio stations wouldnt hold.(no juice)so the question is-were can i safely pull the required 12v (pos earth) from to keep the radio hot when both the ignition switch and battery main switches are off? i know i can run a seperate line from the battery all the way to the cockpit(not fun since i just removed and replaced the carpet to install the rear speakers,any sugjestions would be appreciated,im a musician,godda have tunes!
 
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There is an always hot wire going into the ignition switch and the headlight switch, why not there? None will work with the battery switch in the trunk except direct to the battery.

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If your battery kill switch is turned off there will be no ground circuit and even if the radio's Constant Power lead is wired directly to the battery you will still lose memory, etc.

Sony's hardwired Rotary Commander controls both a radio and separate CD without using an infra-red (line-of-site) device so units can be mounted separately and/or in the boot, etc. I've tried several different mounting configurations and presently I have the thumb-sized controller mounted inconspicuously on the face of my heater fan motor which allows me to turn units off and on, change volume, station, disk, track and source with my hand on the gear shifter. I recently moved the radio head to the parcel tray so that I could read the radio station display while driving--the CD shuttle is mounted vertically in the trunk.
 
Hi Anthonny777. Oh you can have your tunes and maintain power on the radio with the Battery Cut off switch OFF and IGN off. Go to the starter solenoid feed for power. Now add a small buss inlign fuse in parallel with the ground strap in the boot. You will require a battery maintainer or the memory will drain the Battery if stored for a long time.---Fwiw---Keoke
 
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Now add a small buss inlign fuse in parallel with the ground strap in the boot.

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That's a pretty cool idea. The only downside is if you forget that your battery switch is off when you start the car, you just lost the memory on your radio. I hate that battery switch! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif
 
Well yeah, but if someone else goes to start your car Greg, he just ran out of juice! an you still gotta car so go reprogram the radio and /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif while you are doing it.---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
me culpa!negative earth as it were,i simply cannot for some reason think in the negative,i find this trait to be consistant with each individual connected to this sight,as usual you all are willing and able to be generous with your knowledge and experience, cosidering a simple solution not a complex problem,i thank you all for your insightfull and timely responces,i opted to remove the carpet and run a seperate line,though all your solutions were briliant!in short i love you guys!now can anyone tell me how to fit a comlpette set of drums into my healy?thanks anthony 7777
 
Hey Guy's don't wake him leave him slep on.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
for anyone interested,i did pull the carpet,used nice heavy duty aircraft connectors at the batt,and installed a 15 amp aircraft type braker on the bulkhead just in front of the batt,contained in a small insulated metal box to prevent a jack handle or a cymbal stand (keoke)from shorting it out,then past the wire through the bulkhead just next to were the batt cable goes over the rear end using an appropriate size rubber gromet,secured with rubber clamps,drilled a hole in the area just above the rear floor in the corner were the bottom of the right rear side panel fits against the wheel well so the wires are hidden behind the panel,then under the carpet passing between the pass,seat and the door /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif,up the kick panel r/s,and up under the dash,to the radio,all secured with plastic clamps and tie wraps,very tiddy and well consealed,what do you guys think about the 15 amp breaker?think i could have used a 5 amp or 10 amp?we all know the radio doesnt pull much,and i just dont need a dc welder in the cockpit,i need the room for the drum kit(keoke)thanks all!!!!!!!
 
Wow! the bypas fuse is looking better all the time ---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
my dear friend keoke,as allways a pleasure to hear from you,how i handled the radio power situation sounds more complicated or labor intesive than it actually was.the bypass fuse is a great idea!but im sure with my failing memory i would forget to turn on the master switch, try to start the car and loss my settings,then there is the issue of a (battery tender).as is im assured of allways powering the radio,wont have to worry about what the batt. switch position is,and have readely available access to power for other comfort items such as entry and or door marker lights,a much needed map light,drum ampifiers,siren aaoogaa horns,search lites,purple wheel well lights etc etc.i dont know the level of sofistication of the common british car thief,but realy is this master switch a deturant for anyone who wants to steal your car? perhaps it is only a novel idea at best,maybe designed to keep a jellous girlfriend from joy riding your car while shes in a fit of rage!or to prevent a contankerous nephue from driving it through the back wall of ones garrage,but you must realize they would have to have your keys to do this!the point is the darn master batt switch was a sophmoric design to begin with,in my humble opinion totally useless!as far as stopping a car thief from liberating your car?not in america we bread the best car thieves in the world bar none.anyone who parks thier healy at the mall or any puplic parking space,is foolish to believe the car will still be there when they return because they 'turned off the master batt switch'im not saying your foolish for going to the mall, i just believe the switch is more trouble than its worth!hence the radio power question.im going out to my garrage now and cut the darn thing right out!dah should i turn the switch off first? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
Hi Anthony,
I agree with you. The battery disconnect switch is an unneeded bit of fluff. Additionally, the switch is so poorly designed that it is prone to failure or partial failure which causes all sorts of problems. The one thing in it's favor, if it's working correctly, is that in the off position, it places a ground on the points side of the coil which prevents simple hot wiring of the ignition switch. (Otherwise, Healeys can be hot wired by placing a simple jumper on the readily accessable fuse block.) A small hidden switch would disable the ignition just as well. Sometimes the battery switch also places a ground on the coil when you are trying to drive the car. Other times it develops high resistance & causes mysterious failures to start. However, there are other points of view & numerous folks think the switch is wonderful. We shall probably incur their wrath.

You might want to consider putting a fuse in the wiring going to the rear lights on the car. This is a somewhat vulnerable spot in event of a rear end collision. Especially the number plate lamp. Some, separately fuse the overdrive as well as the fuel pump as these are somewhat succeptable to failing or having the wiring damaged. A few folks will probably disagree with this remedy also.
D
 
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