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Glueing rubber end caps to bristleflex

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OK You got them all Roger.But now notice in Gregs ancient picture on the bottom of the wood piece with one cap on and one missing that sets just behind the rear of the door is a foam rubber pad that is affixed with a single screw into the wood.Lots ah bits on these BJ8's. Note the vinyl that encloses these wood pieces closes out over the ends of them too. Thanks for the Piccy Greg, nobody would have known what I was talking about otherwise. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif--Keoke
 
Ah yes, now I understand your comment.

Good call Keoke! And thank you Greg for posting that photo.

Anyone have a good picture of the foam rubber pad that is affixed with a single screw into the wood?

Keoke, what would you recommend I use there? Something I can make, or get at the hardware store? Not sure I see this part available in the Moss catalog.

I do have the correct vinyl on all my wood. Thanks for pointing that out too, for those who don't have it.

I am trying to keep on top of this restoration. Thanks again for asking to see that part on my car.

Cheers, Roger
 
So the plastic end cap doesn't go on the top of the windshield seal? Keoke, now you've got me completely confused. Why you do this to me? How long do I have to stand in the corner?
 
endcap inventory:

a. top end of both windshield pillar seals (2)
b. both ends of long hood seal (2) (the one that seals top of windshield and top of both side windows.)
c. both ends of short hood seal (4) (the two seals that seal the rear edge of the side windows)

Is that clear?
 
Hey Scott,
Your in the corner, I'm in the shed.
Interesting how confusion starts with one question.
My first question, how to attach the rubber end caps.
Lead to which pieces get them.
Lead to where's the foam rubber pad.

Keoke, let's see if Jedi Trainee has learned from Yoda.

Scott, the end caps are really soft rubber, not plastic.
The seal, aka furflex or Bristlefex, should have the soft rubber end caps glued on.

Basically, the only piece of furlex/Bristleflex that does NOT get the end caps is the left and right door channel seal.

The door channel seal starts under the dash area, just presses on, no end cap, continues down, runs along the bottom door opening, up the side where the interior trim panel meets. Then continues from the top of the door channel onto the top of the interior panel. Runs along the top some where around 3" in length. At the end of the furflex/Bristleflex, a U-shaped clip presses over the end. No rubber end cap there either.

Well gang, that's what I've learned in class yesterday. Yoda will correct anything I've mislead you on. Cheers, Roger
 
so before I only need 2 end caps for the windscreen furflex/bristleflex. Now, I need another 4 for the hood (and just to be sure, we mean English hood, not American hood which would be the English bonnet, which would be unecessary if you were wearing a hood).

The rubber-like caps (as opposed to the plastic caps, which have no place on a Healey) are attached by glue to these six exposed ends of furflex/bristleflex. But how does that explain how you get the cap to fit on the end when the furflex/bristleflex is a different shape than the cap? And what is the fully loaded weight of a Boeing 747 on its way to LA making a stopover in Pittsburgh?

I'm so confused, I'm beginning to think I'm Anthony--
It isn't pretty.
 
Hey Scott,
Dam good question.
Guess what? Read my very first post on this tread.
Have your people get back to my people on this. Cheers, Roger
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif
---Ole Yoda Speaks, Roger on the door trim pieces make certain that the front part of the seal is inserted in the small apperature just under the dash pad at each end of the dash to hide the ends.--Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif

SHG,look at John's post on the location of these end caps.Also go back and carefully read this thread it will become apparent what goes where.Further, there is no room for legal interpretations of empirical facts---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
"Is that clear":

OH John!, You forgot to tell SHG: 2+2+4= 8!!--Not 5 ---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
But how does that explain how you get the cap to fit on the end when the furflex/bristleflex is a different shape than the cap?

[/ QUOTE ]

Scott,

Sorry for the confusion with my first post. The furflex/bristleflex for the hood/pillar seals fit o.k. into the rubber caps. It's not a perfect fit but it will work. Here's a photo showing the orientation of a bristleflex seal to the cap. Note the slit on the cap to allow the steel core to install fully onto the sheetmetal (Keoke mentioned this earlier). As to the 747 question it depends on which model. The initial 747 model has a 340.2 ton max. take off weight, the current version (747-400ER) is 412.8 ton max and there is a future version (747-8) that will have a 435.4 ton max. If you have one of these later ones, I suggest getting the higher capacity jack stands before going underneath it.

Hey Keoke .. I flunked advanced math and must use a calculator for everything /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

endcaps.jpg
 
And John, the Airbus A-380 apparently weighs too much to ever get off the ground. But then I am from Seattle.
 
[ QUOTE ]
And John, the Airbus A-380 apparently weighs too much to ever get off the ground. But then I am from Seattle.

[/ QUOTE ] /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif They do seems to be having a fair bit of trouble with that one!
 
Thank you John. Finally, all cap/seal issues are clear, not to mention 747 and the ocassional airbus issues. Now why couldn't keoke do that?

Aside to John, any word on a better version of the seal? I haven't ordered the windscreen seals from Martin yet. Not that this stuff is bad, but I still find it a problem when he adds $20 handling to his $20 order (without telling you) and then takes 3 weeks to ship it.
 
"Now why Couldn't Keoke do that" Cuz Keoke told you how many there were and you were not listening. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif About the $20,00 bit that may not be Martin if he is shipping UPS they put a surcharge on everthing that crosses that border either way.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]


Keoke, what would you recommend I use there? Something I can make, or get at the hardware store? Not sure I see this part available in the Moss catalog.



[/ QUOTE ]


Well Maybe, you know those sponge rubbery interlocking pads that you put down in the garage to keep your feet off the concrete sold by Pep-Boys and others,it is just about the right consistency,thickness and can be shaped to fit. Hows Zat!---I have been walking on the stuff for years and never thought about using it here. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif---Keoke
 
[ QUOTE ]


"Now why Couldn't Keoke do that" Cuz Keoke told you how many there were and you were not listening. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

pfffft. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazyeyes.gif

[ QUOTE ]
About the $20,00 bit that may not be Martin if he is shipping UPS they put a surcharge on everthing that crosses that border either way.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Nuh uh. There's the ship, the handling, the 3 week wait before he ships, and the difference between the price on his website and the price he actually charges because he "forgot to tell you that we increased the price" so your $20 bit costs $100. Hows zat? Why you getting me started on this again?
 
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