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TR2/3/3A glove box lock

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I got working on this glove box lock and wanted to removethose little tumblers, and I am mystified how they got in or come out, aliens? Cansomeone suggest a way to get them out of their cocoon?
Steve

 
Gently tap them through from the other side. When you get the new ones installed, you'll probably have to stake the body a bit to hold them in.
 
Not sure why you want to remove them. Be sure to reinstall them in the same slots or your key won't work.
It appears from the photo that one of the "tumblers" is lower than the others. As JP mentioned there are miniature springs
holding them up. One of the springs might be collapsed. Most brick & mortar locksmiths have a variety of the springs on hand. Take
a good one in to them & see if they can duplicate it.
 
What I am really up to is replacing the outside chrome ring with another tr3 and want to learn what and how they worked. In addition, I wanted to understand more about locks because my daily driver trunk lock was broke by this kid playing with it when it was locked; he forced it open and now it will not lock, so I replaced it with one from Moss. On this car, all my locks work with the stock key except the trunk and I want to move stuff in that lock around after I learned more.
steve
 
OK, Here's a good place to start your education;
https://www.bobine.nl/jaguar/12-body/wilmot-breeden-union-locks-and-keys/
It's Jaguar but all the important stuff applies to Triumph as well.
Frank
 
Sidescreen Triumphs only used 3 Wilmot-Breeden key & barrel series; FA, FS & FP
The barrel designs were different depending on the application, but they could all be
keyed the same. Sidescreen Triumphs used 2 keys, always the same series but two
key numbers; One for the ignition and the boot lock if fitted, the other for the cubby box
and the doors if locks fitted. My guess is so you could open the cubby box while
the engine is running..??
Frank
 
I bought my tr3 in 1971 and it had one key that locked and unlocked, the doors, glovebox, trunk, plus worked the ignition. My plan is to rebuild the broken trunk lock, so it works with that key. I would send it out, but too expensive. I asked a local guy and he said there is a broken cheap cast pot metal peg in back that is broken and cannot be fixed. I assumed if I had the tumbles out and moved them to a new block perhaps I could get back to original.
steve
 
Am I to understand that you want to re-key the Moss Trunk lock to match the ignition, doors, etc.?
That can be done only if the Moss key is the same series (FA, FS or FP) as your master key.
If so remove the brass tongues from your broken cylinder and re-insert them in the same
sequence in the Moss cylinder.
If not look for a tired trunk handle/lock on ebay from which you can salvage an unbroken
(same series) lock cylinder.
 
There you go-- that is what I needed to hear. I have several old truck handles that I do not have the keys for and a couple that are unlocked and move, plus one I played with with an old key and got to open. I will check to see what series they are. I remember the numbers reflected what series the locks are either a FS or FP and the numbers are on the shaft and I know the series of the car. I should be able get a good functional block and keep my old tumbles to use in the correct sequences, and that should work. I wonder if I can move the whole tumbler assemble over without pulling each one out. This will be a good winter project for those cold days when I cannot heat the garage to 60 for bodywork!
Thanks steve
 
You have to remove and replace the brass tongues one at a time.
Be sure to salvage the tiny return springs both from the donor
cylinder and the broken one. Between the two you should have
5 good ones. You can tell by looking at them if one is collapsed.
Once you have your donor cylinder stripped, clean all parts with
mineral spirits or even lacquer thinner. Get all the graphite/oil
mess out. Clean then shine up the brass tongues with 600 grit
wet/dry. Lube the re-assembled cylinder with 5 wt oil.
(Sewing machine or synthetic clock oil) Don't use graphite.
Test your work with the key. None of the tongues should
protrude out of the cylinder, not even 1/64th inch.
50+ year old tongues might have enough wear to not be
perfect. If so, leave the key inserted and file the protruding
tongue(s) flush.
 
Why not graphite?
 
There are so many different kinds of graphite that is made. Generally with the tolerances in locks, it creates issues, usually jams them up. Most lock manufactures recommend a Teflon based dry lubricant like Tri flow or something similar.
 
Interesting to know, JP!

I'm with Steve. Locks are one of those fiddly tasks that I enjoy messing with...since you can do it indoors with the heat or AC on, when you don't feel like tackling a large greasy job outside. And it is SO nice having all the locks work with a single key!
 
Thanks, JP.

I was taught that finely powdered graphite was the preferred lubricant (but Teflon was not in common usage back then). I don't see how graphite could get gummy (unless someone added oil).

Here's one lock maker's recommendation:
"Yale® KeyMark® cylinders are lubricated from the factory with a Teflon®
lubrication . Cylinders should be lubricated periodically depending upon environmental conditions and usage . LAB Lube is the approved lubricant .

Caution: It is not recommended to lubricate cylinders with oil or to mix lubricants ."
https://www.lsamichigan.org/Tech/Yale KeyMark Service Manual 42250_5-11RE.pdf
 
Along that topic, where can you buy the powdered Teflon? It works for all kinds of things...our piano tuner even blows it on the key action. But I haven’t found a source for it?!?
 
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