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I have enjoyed your forum. I've got a 73 tr6-bought it in 75-parked it in 91 or so-ran fine at the time. It's always been garaged so there are no visible rust issues,everything is original. There were no precautions taken for proper storage. By reading your forum and getting some books i'm trying to get a game plan. So far have: pumped the tars(tires) up, will get it up on jack stands next-its a start! Will probably work on brakes and suspension and typing first. Anyway, my first question is about carbs, should they be rebuilt by a pro and if so, some suggestions, I live in Tennessee. Thanks
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trboost
Jedi Trainee
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First, what makes you think the carbs need rebuilding. Check the obvious, diaphrams, leaks, basic adjustment. When was the last time it actually ran & how does it run now .
I would tackle a basic rebuil but if you need throttle shafts or parts that need machine work, I tend to give it to a trusted source.
Try Joe Curto ( a large article in Hemmings mag recently) ,
a great guy who knows SU's & Strom's.
https://joecurto.com/
I would tackle a basic rebuil but if you need throttle shafts or parts that need machine work, I tend to give it to a trusted source.
Try Joe Curto ( a large article in Hemmings mag recently) ,
a great guy who knows SU's & Strom's.
https://joecurto.com/
kindofblue
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Make sure your pour some oil down the spark plugs holes. Do not turn the enggine over with the starter until you have let the oil soak into the piston walls, and turn it by hand. My TR250 sat in a barn since 1991. Be ready for a lot of work. Each time it feels like you are close, another set back happens. I finally got all the fuel lines replaced and cooling system in order, and tried to start it, but there is no fuel at the fuel pump.
You will need to remove the radiator and fuel tank for cleaning. There is a link to a thread about restarting an MG that is a great gameplan. One item or area at a time. Dont try to tackle everything, and dont buy ALL the parts you think you will need at once. Get one subsystem functional and move on to the next.
You will need to remove the radiator and fuel tank for cleaning. There is a link to a thread about restarting an MG that is a great gameplan. One item or area at a time. Dont try to tackle everything, and dont buy ALL the parts you think you will need at once. Get one subsystem functional and move on to the next.
jsneddon
Jedi Knight
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https://www.theautoist.com/awakening_a_sleeping_b.htm
written for MGB but really applies to all cars.
Isn't Tony on our list? We should get Basil to twist his arm to put this up on the shiny new Knowledge Base.
written for MGB but really applies to all cars.
Isn't Tony on our list? We should get Basil to twist his arm to put this up on the shiny new Knowledge Base.
Geo Hahn
Yoda
Offline
[ QUOTE ]
Make sure your pour some oil down the spark plugs holes...
[/ QUOTE ]
I'd also dump a quart over the rocker shaft. Mine once sat for 16 months unprepared when a 3-week paint job ran a 'little' behind schedule. Started right up.
Good to take all the usual precautions, especially where lubrication and brakes are concerned but you may be pleasantly surprised with what a fresh tank of gas can do.
Make sure your pour some oil down the spark plugs holes...
[/ QUOTE ]
I'd also dump a quart over the rocker shaft. Mine once sat for 16 months unprepared when a 3-week paint job ran a 'little' behind schedule. Started right up.
Good to take all the usual precautions, especially where lubrication and brakes are concerned but you may be pleasantly surprised with what a fresh tank of gas can do.
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Ok since everyones gotten you going in the right direction on putting oil down the cylinders, and over the rocker shaft, I'll jump on the carb issue. How did the car run when it was parked? If it ran alright, then you should only have a basic rebuild on your hands. Just order the rebuild kits for it and put them in yourself, a trained chimp can rebuild these without any problems. If it had some more serious carb issues and you need say a new throttle shaft, then yeah go ahead and send it to someone who has some experiance with these. Otherwise just do it yourself and save the cash.
vettedog72
Jedi Knight
Offline
I let my TR6 set neglected long enough to have sludge in the bottom of the gas tank and a fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump had a solid, hard black coal looking build up that could not be dissolved. Funny thing is it never got to the pump and never got into the carbs. Hope you are as lucky.
In your plan, ck the fuel system from the tank through the carbs. You may need to replace or clean the tank, lines, pump, and carbs. Once the gasoline has turned into the tar, solid coal looking substance (it had white crystals mixed with the hard coal), I could not find anything that would liquefy it. I was advised that the solidification of the gasoline was a product of moisture plus the gasoline, not gasoline alone. The crud in the bottom of the tank floated and I was able to siphon the stuff off with out removing the tank. I am lucky the line was the only replacement I had to make. The fuel pump is original with more than 80k, guess I will look for a spare to put in the trunk.
In your plan, ck the fuel system from the tank through the carbs. You may need to replace or clean the tank, lines, pump, and carbs. Once the gasoline has turned into the tar, solid coal looking substance (it had white crystals mixed with the hard coal), I could not find anything that would liquefy it. I was advised that the solidification of the gasoline was a product of moisture plus the gasoline, not gasoline alone. The crud in the bottom of the tank floated and I was able to siphon the stuff off with out removing the tank. I am lucky the line was the only replacement I had to make. The fuel pump is original with more than 80k, guess I will look for a spare to put in the trunk.