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TR6 Getting a TR6 started again-where do I start?

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ichthos

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My 69 TR6 has been sitting for a year. I finally have it back together. I had the valves rebuilt (locally), I rebuilt the rocker assembly, and the carbs were rebuilt by Jeff at Paltech. I adjusted the valves and static timed the engine. My engine is hard to start, and I can't keep it running long enough to go work in the engine bay and adjust anything. Can you give me some ideas on what I need to check and the order in which I should do them? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Kevin
 
Just went through with this with my TR3; but only had the carbs and distributor rebuilt. It took about 7 minutes, from when I first tried to start it, to finally run long enough to then start syncing the carbs, etc. It would run for 1 second, then die; 3 seconds, then die; 5 seconds, etc.

I, like you, static timed, etc. If nothing obvious, perhaps try longer? Best of luck....
 
Well, is the choke and fast idle cam working on both carbs?

If nothing else, this might be useful: https://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-remote-starter-switch-35448.html

Oddly enough, a remote start switch was the very first automotive tool I made myself, back when I was only 16 or so. But mine was better, as it also had a toggle switch for the ignition (or ignition kill).
 
Oops - I found my static timing was off some how. I adjusted it and the car starts right up. It looks like I have some adjustments here there still. I am going to take it on a test drive shortly. I have a few more questions.1) When carbs are rebuilt, I believe they are normally bench tested. Does this mean I need to make any adjustments to the carbs after I put them on? 2) My cams had some oxidation on them, and I could not get to them to remove the surface rust. Does this mean I will need to readjust the valves after running it a bit? 3)There is this bypass valve unique only on the 69 TR6. How do you know if it is working or affecting performance? Any help on any of these questions would greatly be appreciated.
Kevin
 
ichthos said:
When carbs are rebuilt, I believe they are normally bench tested. Does this mean I need to make any adjustments to the carbs after I put them on?
Click to expand...

I found the answer to this question to be Yes! Not much, but some adjustments necessary....
 
ichthos said:
1) When carbs are rebuilt, I believe they are normally bench tested. Does this mean I need to make any adjustments to the carbs after I put them on?
Click to expand...
Almost certainly.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] 2) My cams had some oxidation on them, and I could not get to them to remove the surface rust.
[/quote}Which cams are you talking about?
Does this mean I will need to readjust the valves after running it a bit?
Click to expand...
You had the head off to do the valves, right? That means you should retorque the head nuts, and reset the valves, after about 500 miles.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] 3)There is this bypass valve unique only on the 69 TR6. How do you know if it is working or affecting performance? [/QUOTE]That's the one with the adjustment screw, and external vacuum port, right? If so, you can use a Mity-Vac or similar to apply vacuum to the port. When the valve opens, the engine speed will increase (to roughly 2000-2500 rpm, according to the training notes). "Correct" adjustment is when the valve opens at just slightly more than idle vacuum.
 
Thanks for the information on the head and valves. I took my car out for a test drive. When I try to accelerate, it makes a put put sort of sound and lacks power. I also have some white or grey smoke coming out the tail pipe. My wife said the smoke smells like gas to her. Is this a carb adjustment problem? I have not touched the carbs up to this point. I am always leary about touching something and making it worse.
Kevin
 
Quote:
"There is this bypass valve unique only on the 69 TR6. How do you know if it is working or affecting performance?"

Unique to the 69 ? You must mean the Vacuum Control Valve, more or less under the front carb ?
 
Pretty simple to test for function and adjustment, not that it needs to work in the first place. But if you disconnect the vacuum line attached to the retard module's nipple on the cockpit side of the dizzy and hold your finger over over the line, not the nipple, the idle speed will increase by about 200 rpms.
If it doesn't then either the valve is faulty or not adjusted properly OR the vacuum module on the dizzy is broken.
The module on the front side of the dizzy, btw, is for vacuum advance, and has the front carb as it's vacuum source.
 
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