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Over the years, whenever I needed to spend some quality time under my 250, I would place a floor jack in the middle of the front crossmember assembly and lift the front until it was high enough to slide jackstands on either side. Then, I would go to the rear and place the jack under the differential and lift the rear end until I could position two more jackstands there. I always felt a little uneasy placing all of that weight on the differential as I thought the case could crack, well, ah...like a pumpkin. Is this the best and only way given the fact I have only the one jack (unlike a couple friends of mine who have lifts in their garages)? I just need to reassure myself that it is ok to do it this way. If not, what other methods are there?
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Getting a TR on Jack Stands
- Thread starter arbs_53
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LastDeadLast
Jedi Knight
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Much like you, I jack up the front cross member first, at the rear however I use a small 2x4 to span the "t-shirt" plate right in front of the diff. The board is long enough to load both sides of the frame rail so it appears to be pretty solid. Doesn't creak at least.
-s
-s
PeterK
Yoda
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When you get it running again Dave, come over for a little lift time. I'll leave you two alone for a little quality time together. I guess this means you like it on the bottom huh? (this would be a great t-shirt with a pic of a TR up on the lift!)
When I use a jack (yes I have 4 floor jacks but only one in my shop, one in the equipment shed for my tractor, one(OK two but one is in a travel bag) in the garage for changing the car tires (OK three but the big one weighs 90lbs and seldom used)); anyway, I use a two-by scrap to bridge two stong frame members to create a triangle, then lift there. Less likely to twist stress the frame.
But you are welcome, in the meantime, to come and borrow a second jack for as long as you need it. Jackstands are also a must once you get it up.
We'll be at my uncle's this morning until early afternoon.
When I use a jack (yes I have 4 floor jacks but only one in my shop, one in the equipment shed for my tractor, one(OK two but one is in a travel bag) in the garage for changing the car tires (OK three but the big one weighs 90lbs and seldom used)); anyway, I use a two-by scrap to bridge two stong frame members to create a triangle, then lift there. Less likely to twist stress the frame.
But you are welcome, in the meantime, to come and borrow a second jack for as long as you need it. Jackstands are also a must once you get it up.
We'll be at my uncle's this morning until early afternoon.
Geo Hahn
Yoda
Offline
DNK said:
Can't answer with stand locations for a '6 but I will mention that if 'a while' is months or even weeks, I always support the weight of the suspension by placing something (usually a 6"x9" wood block) under the tire.
The car is still supported by the jackstands but the tire (and thus suspension) are held up by the block rather than allowed to droop unsupported.
IanF
Jedi Trainee
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DNK said:
While I'm sure it varies some from make to make, my experience has been if you want to limit chassis flex as much as possible, then support the car in such a way so that it mimics how the suspension does. This also depends somewhat on the work I'm planning to do.
For our Volvo's (Jerseygirl's and mine), I usually support the car by the rear axle under the spring pads and under the front lower control arms, also under the spring plates. The doors of the car will open and close as normal since as far as the chassis is concerned, this is little different that sitting normally. If I have to do front suspension work, I move the stands under the subframe as close to the suspension points as possible. If the car is lifted by the jack supports (like when I have the car on my lift), the chassis flexes and the doors are tough to open and close.
For our Spitfires, it's similar. I have stands under the frame as close to the suspension points as possible. It helps to have stands of different heights. I have (4) 3 ton stands and (4) 6-ton stands. This can help with lift point options to keep the car level.
For long-term storage (rather than service), I use dollies from Harbor Freight, in the hope they will "cradle" the tires somewhat to keep flat-spotting to a minimum.
Coincidentally, both of my cars are on stands right now...
Ian F
'78 Spit6
'73 Volvo 1800ES
(and Jerseygirl's wrench)
