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TR2/3/3A German TR3 Rack & Pinion kit

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prb51

prb51

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The kit is in and test driven and really works as it should. I can turn the wheels lock to lock with the car stationary. The driving is nicer too, I'd rebuilt the TR3 steering and complete front end and it was tight (no slop) but the R&P has eliminated any wander over irregular surfaces and is finger tip steering. Very nice.

The kit is available from BPNW and some other vendors. Look under TR3/steering
https://www.bpnorthwest.com

I required the solid column conversion and it comes with everything you need...upper outer/inner steering column and the articulated lower portion. Also the bolt that replaces the starter bolt and the piece that fills the pulley with new lock nuts.

I pulled the apron (marked all wires), removed the rad, pulled each brake & hub.
Removed the complete steering system.
I spent a lot of time with the electrical portion that consists of a plastic sleeve that fits over the upper column (non moving that the body wires attach to).
This has each ind wire soldered (RT,LT,Horn,Blinker)

https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01285.jpg

It has a sleeve portion that the stator tube wires (no tube) press fit into with brass plungers that ride on the brass bands, it moves with the wheel...here it is mounted

https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01286.jpg

I had to fiddle with it a bit but it works very well and the wires are secure and cannot snag...the horn/turn signals do rotate with the wheel but operate normally.

The mounts drop into the frame where you removed the steering box/idler arm. Use the original bolts/holes precut.The R&P fits in nicely

https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01283.jpg

You have to adjust the length of each column element but there is built in play. Everything dropped in nicely and though close there was no interference.

I did have to remove the upper/lower hose with center pipe and use a universal flex hose (goodyear 55092 flex hose)that fit very well with a little trimmed at the lower rad.

I had my bud weld some alloy mounts on the rad and mounted a 12" fan with thermostat

https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01289.jpg

To get the distance you need for the R&P arms you remove the drop arms from the wheel hubs and reverse them (left to right etc.)..they are oriented the normal way but you use a provided 22mm spacer up front and the stock rear spacer plus a 7mm spacer on the rear...all spacers and longer bolts provided.

https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01281.jpg
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01282.jpg

This orients the drop arms outwards twds the disc and gives you alignment room...straightfwd but not a step I thought I'd need to do so regreased all bearings at that time.

https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01287.jpg
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01288.jpg

Slapped everything back together, set the alignment and went for a drive...takes some time but for me worth the effort.

I wish I'd taken better pics but I get busy and forget until it's too late, my bad.
 
Pat:

Glad you got the R+P installed. What is the large nut on the drivers side for, picture 183? I have the same nut but didn't know if it was for some kind of maintenance. The English instructions didn't say and I can't read German.

Murray
 
Murry,
Thanks for your help...the BPNW guys came thru with the English translation.
Are you talking about the large alloy nut beloe the column attaching point...the R&P gear connection? If so that was how the unit arrived and that is a lock nut/plate keeping the driven gear/rack properly meshed.
BTW, that German wire coupler works well and I don't really mind the large original steering wheel even with the easier steering, I'll keep it.

Pat
 
prb51 said:
...the horn/turn signals do rotate with the wheel but operate normally...
Click to expand...

I would imagine that you lost the self canceling attribute of the original trafficator. Is that true??

I have a R&P in my TR3 (it didn't come with a slip ring for the electrics), and have been tossing around several possibilities. If I wind up using the original control head, I would like it to retain the self canceling feature. As it stands now, I'll probably go with the MGA switch which has an adjustable timer to cancel.

I'm suprised that no one has come up with a proper solution to this problem.
 
Hey Pat,

Looking good. I think you have me sold on the conversion. Where did you buy yours from?

Cheers,
Gavin
 
No self cancelling turn signals as the control head moves with the wheel but everything else works as stock.
BTW, when I took my stator tube out it was cracked about 2 inches down from the control head entry sleeve with about 1/4 in of solid metal remaining...so I was about to lose my self cancelling option anyway!
The R&P is a huge improvement even though my front end had been rebuilt etc.
I believe, my opinion, that it probably steers closer to original than a rebuilt original would and I base that on tire technology.
The original steering with modern radials is very different than the original steering and hard rubber compounds of either bias ply or the early radial Michelins/Dunlops.
I drove a friends original car with some very old radials and they don't come close to gripping the road like modern compounds do ergo the old steering is really over worked....
 
I found your blog on the Triumph Forum about installing the rack and pinion conversion and I found it very helpful, thanks for taking the time to post it.
I recently bought the exact same kit on eBay, new but an opened box by someone who decided to go another way I guess.
It appears all the major parts are there, so that is a relief. One issue I have right now is how the wiring is attached on the steering column adapter for the horn and turn signals. My unit came through without any wiring and the translated German instructions are useless. I can see how the device is supposed to work but I am not sure about how the four wires are threaded and secured, and what the sequence is, top to bottom for the wires. I am guessing one is a ground, one each for the left and right signal, and one for the horn, is that correct?
Did yours come with the wiring already attached or did you have to wire it? I am hoping I can somehow put the wires into the inner part with the brass bands but I am not sure how. It does not appear to come apart any further than the inner and outer sections.
I know it has been a while, but anything you can tell me is appreciated.
If you have any tips or suggestions regarding the installation that you did not include in the forum article, well that would be great as well.
Thanks in advance,
 
martx-5 said:
I would imagine that you lost the self canceling attribute of the original trafficator. Is that true??

I have a R&P in my TR3 (it didn't come with a slip ring for the electrics), and have been tossing around several possibilities. If I wind up using the original control head, I would like it to retain the self canceling feature. As it stands now, I'll probably go with the MGA switch which has an adjustable timer to cancel.

I'm suprised that no one has come up with a proper solution to this problem.
Click to expand...

They have-- Bastuck, also in Germany. I love mine and piece of cake to install on a split-column
Jim
 
Sorry- not the self- concealing feature. But you do get to keep the trafficator. It's really not an annoyance. Jim
 
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