• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

German car guy needs help

pookie

Freshman Member
Offline
I've been a 911 guy for the past few years. My first and only running classic is a 1976 Porsche 911 S Targa. But I need some help from you Brit guys spefically in reference to the Triumph TR6.

I found a TR6 local to me that I am going to check out. Car looks nice in the pics and the price looks really nice below the average market price I usually see them for. Aside from rust in the rockers/doglegs I have no idea what else to look for on these things. I'm supposed to look at it in a few hours and I've been searching since I set up the viewing.

Most likely this will end up being a gift to my pops or to my father in law, my dad had one and my FIL wants one.

Thanks in advance
Ryan
 
Since you only have a couple of hours, I'll answer. Look for RUST anywhere. Body parts are EXPENSIVE but the mechanicals are reasonable (short of a complete motor rebuild). The trailing arms on the rear suspension are prone to decay. Check the door gap to see if there is a large gap at the top compared to the bottom near the door handle side. That indicates a frame issue. Other than that, you would want to take it out and put it through some hard acceleration and braking and also through some hard turns to see if handling indicates any issues. Good Luck.
 
See who's local to you and have them take a spin with you.
 
Look for rust.

Lift the carpets,
Remove the the trunk liner and look up under the deck along the inner fender wells, and where the rear lights penetrate,
Look behind the front fenders where the bumpers attach,
Look at the battery shelf,
Look for body straightness, and door gaps

Looking from the rear of the car, you should just be able to see a little of the frame below the body. If you see a lot, the frame is hogged.

Drive the car, while not nearly as tight as a 911, it should still be tight to steer, and shift well up and down in gears as you pull 4500 rpm. It should feel like a sports car.

The car is front heavy and often referred to as pushing a wheelbarrow around, this is normal. A stock six is more of a touring roadster then a racer.

Good luck
 
Thanks guys I got the VTR link from one of the Porsche boards. I'm out the door to look at it now. I'm in Martinsburg WV if anyone is close to there.

I report back with what I find.
 
Did they move Martinsburg, never really thought of it as the SE
 
HA not I moved to Martinsburg from Charlotte a little while ago. I hate it but it was hopefully for the better job wise. I laughed when I realized I registered on here back in 2003 when I was looking for a Lotus 7 or GT 6.

I've got pics so I don't know how to load them. Here is a link to one of the 911 boards where I have them posted.

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&postid=3255289#post3255289

All in all it was a neat experience. My first time driving a TR6 or any British car for that matter. I printed info from the VTR link to take with me. I checked all the spots it had listed. It has on pin size rust hole in the driver side floorboard. Everything else there is solid. It has rust really bad behind the pass headlight, I have a pic but it was taken with the wrong setting so it is giant. One bad spot on one rear fender and another under the driver side door. And it had what looked to be two rust spots where the torsion bars meet the frame. Both of those were smaller than a business card or pack of matches. I think the paint was original but the owner didn't know. It had 58K on it not 69K like I thought earlier. He had warmed it up, but it drove nice. Big difference between the clutch on that and the 911. Pulled fine, ran fine, stopped and turned fine. Shifted pretty good once I got used to it. Didn't find any rust in the trunk or behind the rear seats. Could use a new dash and to get rid of the radio that is in it. All the gauges and lights seemed to work. Had some spare parts that came with it.

That's about all I got. I'll let you know if my pops or FIL gets it. If not I can post up all the info here if someone is interested.
 
It is below the Mason Dixon line but only by about 25-30 miles. One county in MD is all that seperates us from the Yankees. Ha....
 
Also the #'s I got off of it maybe you guys can help

VIN CF35305U
Manf. date 02/1975
Paint code 73
Trim code 74


Does that mean anything to you guys?
 
I would put this car up on a lift and take a closer look at the rust on this frame, with particular attention to where the trailing arms and all come together.

The rocker is obviously rusted in that rear location, and is probably also rusted under the front fender area. As long as the rust has not moved to the front and rear door posts, the rocker can be easily repaired or replaced. Rust around the head lamps is sometimes mostly limited to the lens assembly. If it has extensively moved into the fender itself, repairs can be expensive.

Body parts for these cars are available, but all require dolly and hammer work to fit properly.

If the frame is OK, and the price is right the car has possibility.
 

Attachments

  • 5350-rustframe.jpg
    5350-rustframe.jpg
    58.6 KB · Views: 117
Your car's on eBay, item 330116943044
 
Good eye Kevin.

Funny how the ad doesn't have any frame shots nor mention the T-shirt frame rust that's in pookie's picture.

Jeff
'74 CF13816U
 
Back
Top