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generator/alternator conversion

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In answer to your questions, yes he replaces the armature and fields. He also guts the voltage regulator. He wants the generator sent in tact with all the internals - not sure why. Isn't the only thing I have to worry about is making sure the old pulley fits? I don't see how it will heat up if I am using the same size pulley which will make the armature spin at the same speed - can you explain this to me?
Kevin
 
I get that the pulley needs to be the same because the tach is calibrated to the number of revolutions. I don't see this could cause overheating problems. I did email him back to ask a few more questions. What I don't understand is how he can double the output if the same pulley is used and the armature is turning at the same speed. I will let you know what he says.
Kevin
 
I think what is being talked about is that if one were to decrease the wire size in the windings but increase the number of windings you could modify the output capabilities. That could lead to overheating. Not in that business so am only guessing.

Kurt.
 
I was thinking it is probably several things. He could replace the field coils so they would create a stronger magnetic field, and increase the number of turns in the windings on the armature. The new regulator is probably required because of the higher field-coil current. The third possibility would be to increase the armature speed, but you said he doesn't do that.

Of course, for a given wire size, higher armature current means more heating. The Lucas design is probably not the best one possible, so it's not too surprising to me that there is room to modify the armature and field coils and keep it all working together.
 
For 50 amps out of a generator, this sounds correct that they would rewind both the armature and fields. The ratio of windings will determine voltage, while thickness of wire (actually field current/magnetic strength) will determine amperage. The difficult part would be to fit thicker windings, as the space is limited. Most likely a reduction in number of windings on both armature and fields, with thicker wire and possibly some pre-magnetized field cores. The former will cause hotter running, the latter, regulation problems. Either way, getting more amperage out of the carbon brushes is challenging and is likely to wear out very quickly.

My suggestion would be to stay away from a generator and use an alternator (no cable tach drive). Many different types of electronic tachometers are available. It's a matter of fitting one in the original case and wiring it in correctly.

My personal solution was a bit more hairy. TR5 distributor fits in the same space but has tachometer cable output. The internals of the tachometer itself fit perfectly inside the Bugeye housing without even drilling faceplate holes. Specifically for my case there is however a small interference problem with the Marina block, which shouldn't be a problem with any other A-series. I merely turned the distributor 90 deg.

https://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x288/frogeye61/1275/P1000094.jpg
 
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