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Gen to Alternator Conversion

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R

R&M

Senior Member
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I am converting my 67 3000 over to negetive ground when it comes out of storage and considering a move to an Alternator.

I see Wire Wheel has a conversion kit available W/WO the alternator. However, ad states "wiring is up to you"

Has anyone used this kit? If so, what changes do I need to make in the wireing to use the alternator. Or perhaps someone has a diagram to share.

Any input is appreciated.

Thanks

R&M
Orchard Park, NY
 
I used Don Lenchow's kit. It is a breeze and the wiring a far simplier than original. This would be the same for all the alternator kits. Essentially since the voltage regulator is no longer required, your only issue is building a buss to connect all the wires together. I simply took a bad voltage regulator, gutted it, glued in a flat plastic backing inside and mad a buss out of it. All the wires connect to the terminals and it looks pretty stock. The empty regulator housing is great for stowing a spare rotor and points.

It is easy, fear not.
 
bighly said:
I used Don Lenchow's kit. It is a breeze and the wiring a far simplier than original. This would be the same for all the alternator kits. Essentially since the voltage regulator is no longer required, your only issue is building a buss to connect all the wires together. I simply took a bad voltage regulator, gutted it, glued in a flat plastic backing inside and mad a buss out of it. All the wires connect to the terminals and it looks pretty stock.
Click to expand...

bighly et. al.,

Don Lenshow's kit can be seen/ordered here:

https://www.ntahc.org/techtips/Alternator/Alternatorconv.htm

My question is, once all wired up does the little generator warning light still work? If not can some sort of relay test circuit be hooked up so it does work?

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif

Thanks
 
Hi Alan,
You don't actually need to "gut" the control box. If you wish to keep it original, just reconnect the external wires as shown. The box serves as tie points but does not actually get involved in the operation.

Rewiring as shown plus insulating the cut out contact with a plastic sleeve, lower right in the photo, & you are good to go. The red warning light will function as original.
D
 

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Wrong control box Dave. There is a Tutorial with a complete wiring schematic on the web someplace for the single wire alternator upgrade. I thought I had in the file but no I didn't download it. I thought you might have it and post it.--Keoke-?
 
Hi R&M,
I bought the kit from Hendrix and the alternator locally. It looks like the same kit that Don Lenchow (of NTAHC) sells since the instructions on Hendrix’s sight are written by Don. I had some trouble with the NAPA part number that was supplied with the kit, but more than likely, it was the dumb kid at NAPA. The kit does come with a diagram, though I needed to call for some minor tech support. The wiring does change a little. Here is a diagram of what I did, plus a photo of the alternator I installed.
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--- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/savewave.gif

You sure it was the kid at NAPA! "U" get hung up in your jammies again Sunday?---Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
 
Hi Keoke,
As far as converting to an alternator, there really isn't that much difference between the earlier RB 106 control box & the later RB340. Just moving a few wires around.The attached drawing is for the RB340. The cutout contact still needs to be insulated.
D
PS - Most folks don't like the single wire alternators. No red light indicator & it takes quite a bit more rpm to get it started.
 

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Keoke said:
"U" get hung up in your jammies again Sunday?---Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
Click to expand...
WOT, I might say the same to you. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif I had to leave a little after 10 to see about a new cell phone. We crossed paths on Hawthorn just as you started to come down the ocean side of the big hill. Sorry it didn’t work out again.
 
Well I was waiting on my friend from the caribbean to come by in his BJ8 but he got saddled with some honeydos and came on his own later-So. You missed the triumph crowd about 15 of them in TR3's well turned out cars too.--Keoke
 
Dave -

What two wire alternator are you using on your conversion?
 
Hi Alan,
I used the Precision Parts LUA604 rebuilt by Precision Parts, Oklahoma -- https://www.pprok.com/ --from Peter at World Wide Imports. https://www.nosimport.com/
The application is 78 - 80 MGBGT. It fits my DWR alternator mount bracket perfectly.

The LUA604 is the newer version of the old Lucas 18ACR 45 amp alternator. It is compact & easy to install. It uses the same 3 in line connector. Mount clocking is the same with two mount tabs at 6 o'clock & the tension tab at 10 o'clock - front view.

I think Lucas alternators get a bad rap, usually because they are rebuilt & the rebuilder takes as many short cuts as possible. Like reusing many old parts. The quality of Precision Parts rebuilds is definitely a cut or two, or three, above the average rebuild.

I have found many rebuilt starters, generators & alternators that were apparently glass beaded for cleaning. The glass grit was not thoroughly removed from all parts, hard to do, & the resulting grit led to a short life. I started disassembling newly rebuilt starters, generators, & alternators, just to thoroughly clean the microscopic grit out of the internals. Got longer life out of the rebuilts this way. The PP alternator was microscopically clean & had all new bearings, diode pacs, & other parts.

Aside, Lucas alternators are designed to mount solidly on the front tab only. The rear tab is mounted on a semi floating sleeve so that there is no end tension on the rear mount. Saves bent or cracked mounts.
D
 
Alan--

Because I did not want to change the front pulley on my 100 to accomodate the (relatively) narrow belt that most alternators use I found a Leece-Neville/Prestolite 75 amp unit that comes with a two-piece shimmable pulley that allows me to use a 5/8" belt. It is a 3-wire alternator and so will drive the "generator" light and also provide remote voltage sensing. I have had the unit on board for about 6 years/50K miles with no problems at all.
 
Hey Dave! you hear about that pulley thing he has. I looked for it when you were having pulley problems couldn't find it to save my life.---Keoke
 
One more thing guys. The plastic two prong connector from NAPA is junk. Do not waste your money on it. Mine broke down inside and left me stranded without juice on main street during the Morgan Hill 4th of July parade.
 
I have seen them. Have used a somewhat similar type of adjustable pulley on air conditioning blowers. Never bothered to look for one of the Prestolite types. My problem was just a matter of getting the correct size & type of belt. "A" instead of "V".
D
 
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