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gearbox mount

19_again

Jedi Warrior
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I was under the B tonight looking for the cause of a new noise and saw the buffers on the gearbox mount were pretty much compressed, dried out and slightly crooked. I know they aren't the cause of the noise, I just happened to look over there. Should I be changing these out as a matter of safety or just leave it on the list for next winter? The buffers I'm talking about are parts #282-330 on the linked diagram.
www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29013
 
I just did mine last week. I modified the Crossmember to eliminate the extension that attaches at the front of the trans and also drilled some 1" holes so that the bracket mount screw can be acessed much easier if needed. I'd replace them FWIW. It was not very tough and should not take very long depending on how picky you are. I had to prime and paint everything I took off before I re-installed.
 
Vince, I won't be doing any body work, but I will probably prime and repaint. I couldn't find anything about the unit at all in the Bentley book, can you tell me about the level of adjustment involved with this rig? It's obviously designed to be adjustable, how do you know what's too tight or sloppy? Given that I can't figure out what the heck it does in the first place I can't tell if it's working right or not. I'm a firm believer in "if it ain't broke...", but I will be disassembling and reassembling the part so it's good to know what's right or wrong. It's not like it was a triumph or something where it didn't matter!
 
To tell you the truth, I am not sure why most of that stuff is under there. I removed most all of it and only modified the Cross member (part #1) and added new mounts. (#2) for your car. I really can't see where most of that stuff is needed as it is static and is not prone to movement. I've read (about my year) that the stayrod was a US mandated safety issue right before going to RB cars.

Maybe some seasoned MG enthusiasts can enlighten both of on the situation.

I'll be breaking down the '67 GT and redoing most of the front, rear suspension and Trans cross member soon. I'd like to learn more about it if I could.
 
Mike, those pads dampen the vibration, can "jangle" if/when hardened or gone M.I.A. The rod is a sort of "anti-tramp" one to keep the tailshaft from whacking things (coachwork) if torque loaded.
 
Good Lord, I had no idea there were such things as "anti-tramp" devices. I could have saved a fortune!!!!!!!!
Thanks Doc, I expected you might chime in here. Amazing how little info there is out there on this deal.Now Vince and I will know why we're fixing them.
Mike
 
But will it ever deliver (stock) that much torque to whack?
 
Vinnie

You wife just called and she wants the "anti-tramp" device re-installed in your car :savewave:

Seriously, if they put in with a stock engine I would suspect therebe a reason.
 
The earlier cars had MORE than enough torque to beat th' livin' beegeesez outta the tunnel. There's likely a forum member around somewhere who wonders what all those BUMPS are from in their propshaft tunnel.
 
My pads just came in and I'll be changing them out this weekend if I have time. Are there any safety concerns regarding tension or whether the transmission is in a specific gear as the mount is retightened?
 
No
 
I always look at it this way, (even though I'm not always agreed with), if the factory installed it, they had a good reason and if it's on your car, put it back and decipher it's worth later. You might have saved yourself a big problem.
confused0009.gif
 
Yup Yup, no disagreement here. If they put it on there, especially in the non smog years, that's good enough for me. But given that the old pads had been compressed I wanted to know what pressure issues might exist.
This forum has taught me so much, I might find myself asking you'all for a better way to turn the key.
 
:lol:

I'm surprised the transmission rubber bits at the other end of the rod are okay. Usually those turn to goo kinda quick if exposed to oil.

Tighten the pad assembly "snug" but not "smushed" Mike.
 
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