Gearbox is out...now what?

[spartan0199]

Hi all,

This is my first post on this forum although I have written a couple notes to the Healey email list. I have a 1961 3000 BT7 which has a sticky clutch. This past summer if my car sat over night or longer the clutch would get stuck and I couldn't engage any gears. I would get around this by starting the car in gear after which it would work normal. I checked all the hyraulic stuff and everything seemed ok...I changed the flexibe hose and rebuilt the slave cylinder 3 years ago. The car has ~65,000 miles on it and was restored by my dad and uncle from 1975 to 1980, they believe the clutch to be orginal.

Anyhow....I have the gearbox, pressure plate, and clutch disk out of the car. Looks to me like oil has contaminated the clutch. Two questions.

1) Should the seal at the front of the gearbox be changed? If so how does it come out? (Does the bell housing need to be removed?)

2) The big question. Rear crankshaft oil seal kit (Moss). Should I do this, are there any other alternatives? Can this be done with the engine still in car? I'm really nervous about this job. From the description it sounds like a difficut job. I only have basic hand tools, a cordless drll, and limited experience!

Pictures attached (I think)

Thanks for the advice.
Justin
Ypsilanti, Michigan

 

[Keoke]

Hi, No you do not have to remove the Bell housing to replace the front seal. If it indicates it is leaking by all means replace it. If it has been in there for a long time replacing it will be a good insurance move.

Similarly, if the rear seal shows signs of excessive leakage then the aftermarket seal can be installed. They come with a good set if instructions and jigs. Installation does require removal of the rear engine plate and enlarging its cut out to accommodate the new seal. However, this can all be done with the engine in the car.

I suggest the complete replacement of the clutch; Disk,Throwout bearing and Presure plate. --Fwiw--Keoke

 

[tahoe healey]

I just replaced the rear engine seal on my BJ8. You've done the hard part already. Just remove the fly wheel (four bolts). Drill and tap for holes through the flang noles to aline and mount the after market seal. Hand drill will be fine. Harbor Freight sell tap kits cheap.The plate at rear (eleven or twelve bolts) of the engine needs to be opened a bit. I gave it to a friend who has a plasma unit but it can be done by grinding.(I've assumed that is the seal your are referring to).
The front seal should be replaced as well as the rear since you have it out and will need to be done some day. You don't want to have to pull the gear box again.
This all can be done with the engine still in the car. Please be careful when under the car. I raised the car then lowered the tires onto four 10 x 10 blocks (form your local construction sight) with 2 x 4 blocks nailed on. I combined that with break and floor jacks so things would not move
Caution! do not touch the over drive is you don't have to. Do not put the trans cover back on until you test drive the OD. It may need adjustments. If so refer to Nocks Tech book.