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Gear reduction starter hits distributor oil line bolt

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RestoreThemAll

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As the title says my oil line bolt to the block hits the new gear reduction starter. The starter does bolt up to the block but it's tight.

  • I tried every conceivable position on the starter mounting plate. If you've installed one of these you know what I'm referring to.
  • I ground some of the oil line bolt down as far as I dare
  • I used the thinnest copper washers I could find and then took some material off.
  • I even took some of the casing off the starter. I'm a little embarrassed about that part.

I'm concerned that the vibration will cause problems with the oil line. What do you guys think?

Dale
 

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I do not know if this is feasible but :
Maybe make a new oil line that connects by interchanging the black plug with the existing oil fitting location this
would allow you to reroute the line out of harms way???
 
Tach cable is exactly in the way, but I didn't have any clearance issues between the Banjo Bolt with this starter.

IMG_2892.jpg
 
Keoke said:
I do not know if this is feasible but :
Maybe make a new oil line that connects by interchanging the black plug with the existing oil fitting location this
would allow you to reroute the line out of harms way???
Click to expand...

If your existing solution does not work out, give Keoke's suggestion a try.
 
Excellent ideas. Thanks guys!

Dale
 
I slotted the starter's mounting holes a small amount to gain some clearance for mine. Might be another solution for you.
 
Stretch, the thought of slotting the holes did cross my mind. You don't get any movement from the starter with slotted holes?
d
 
When I did mine, I seem to recall that I also hit this banjo bolt. My solution was to rotate the adapter plate until it fit again. After the second attempt it was hitting the metal line that I think went to the slave cylinder. With a little coaxing, I slightly bent the line and it works well.

I didn't think to slot the holes, which I am sure will still hold with the extra slop.

Remember to use a threadlocker (locktite) on the adapter plate screws. They have been known to work loose.
 
I took the starter back off and, with the bolt in the block, used a very small grinder to shave off just a little more from the side of the bolt next to the starter. The bolt head now clears the starter by about 1/32". Enough for some expansion if needed.

Yes, thread locker on the plate screws. At this point I have to find a reason to not use thread locker. Otherwise a small drop goes on everything.
 
Mine was from British Starters and it fit right in my BJ8 after I seem to recall rotating some adapter plate to just the right spot. Same for my Caterham 7.
Jay, '65 3000
 
Dale--

The gear reduction starter on my 100 is a very tight fit as well, though in a slightly different way, but I had just enough clearance to make it happen.

I really do believe that whether due to accidents, differences in motor mounts, et. that things vary from car to car and while the sellers say that the adapter plate gives universal fit such is not always the case.

It is not a big deal to have a machine shop make you a new adapter plate that will offer you positions in between those offered by the plate that comes with your starter. I had to do just such a thing to mount a gear starter to my Courier. It may cost you a few more bucks than you planned but the result is worth the expenditure.
 
Thanks Michael. Your suggestion, and some others, are the right way to do things. Live and learn.

I'm finding that modifications are necessary as often as not with this project. It slows down progress but does give us bragging rights!

I met a really good machinist last year through another brit car guy. He and his partner have been running a small shop for decades. Fun to visit with when they have time. The sad part is that they are planning to close up shop within a couple of years or so. Not great news for our area. We're in the middle of nowhere NY.

Dale
 
Like I've always maintained with regard to my own Healey: there's no five (5) minute job that takes less than an hour to do!

From there, the time rate of increase is exponential... ;)
 
I've had no slippage since slotting the holes. I did this about 5 years ago. I don't recall if the slots were in the direction of reacting to thrust. I didn't have to elongate holes much but make sure not to shift the the starter off it's centerline.
 
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