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Gear Oil
- Thread starter rlich8
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That will be fine (although others will have additional, alternative suggestions/preferences)!rlich8 said:
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Gearbox is less than 2 quarts for drain & refill; but the rear axle takes most of a quart. So 3 quarts to do both.
Most conventional GL4 oils still use the "active sulfur" additive that can erode "yellow metal"; they just use less of it than the GL5 oils that use the same additive. So my opinion is that it is safer to use an oil that does not use that additive <span style="font-style: italic">at all</span>. Unfortunately the oil manufacturers don't like to tell us what additives they use, so it can be difficult to tell. But from my limited research, it appears that most synthetic gear oils do not use the bad additive.
FWIW, the local O'Reillys has Valvoline SynPower full synthetic Gl5 gear oil for $8.99/quart. I've been using it in all my Triumph diffs for many years, and I believe it provides less friction, better protection and less wear than conventional gear oils. Of course I might be deluded
But I wouldn't use it in a gearbox, since they need a certain amount of friction for the synchro rings to operate.
Most conventional GL4 oils still use the "active sulfur" additive that can erode "yellow metal"; they just use less of it than the GL5 oils that use the same additive. So my opinion is that it is safer to use an oil that does not use that additive <span style="font-style: italic">at all</span>. Unfortunately the oil manufacturers don't like to tell us what additives they use, so it can be difficult to tell. But from my limited research, it appears that most synthetic gear oils do not use the bad additive.
FWIW, the local O'Reillys has Valvoline SynPower full synthetic Gl5 gear oil for $8.99/quart. I've been using it in all my Triumph diffs for many years, and I believe it provides less friction, better protection and less wear than conventional gear oils. Of course I might be deluded
But I wouldn't use it in a gearbox, since they need a certain amount of friction for the synchro rings to operate.
DNK
Great Pumpkin
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Speaking of gear oil . Hope I'm not butting in.
As everyone knows my car has not been run in about 14 years (TR6). I did some trans work when I had it out and refilled the tranny when installed.
I was under it a couple of weeks ago and noticed there was a couple of drips on the drain (what ever it is). After looking at it I wonder if the PO replaced with the wrong plug as it looks like a bolt from under it.
The question is. Shouldn't it be a pipe thread. I tried to put it in further but it is in all the way and don't want to strip it.
can anyone tell me if this looks correct?
As everyone knows my car has not been run in about 14 years (TR6). I did some trans work when I had it out and refilled the tranny when installed.
I was under it a couple of weeks ago and noticed there was a couple of drips on the drain (what ever it is). After looking at it I wonder if the PO replaced with the wrong plug as it looks like a bolt from under it.
The question is. Shouldn't it be a pipe thread. I tried to put it in further but it is in all the way and don't want to strip it.
can anyone tell me if this looks correct?
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I believe that is OK, Don. The threads are pipe threads, and that looks like the factory magnetic drain plug (which is also pipe threads). The magnetic plug was not standard on TR6, but is a recommended modification, IMO. It was standard on Stags, and my original one stuck out by about that far when fully tightened.
It's often hard to tell if the plug is actually leaking, since any other leaks tend to run down in such a thin film that you can't see them, and then collect on the plug. But it certainly wouldn't hurt to use some "teflon pipe dope" next time you install the plug, as it will help it to seal. There is also a Loctite product (called PST IIRC) that seals even better than the ordinary dope.
If the plug sticking out bugs you, there are readily available plugs that are magnetic but use a hex socket rather than hex head, and pull down just about flush with the surface. Here is one being installed in my Stag differential (not quite tight yet when the photo was taken)
It's often hard to tell if the plug is actually leaking, since any other leaks tend to run down in such a thin film that you can't see them, and then collect on the plug. But it certainly wouldn't hurt to use some "teflon pipe dope" next time you install the plug, as it will help it to seal. There is also a Loctite product (called PST IIRC) that seals even better than the ordinary dope.
If the plug sticking out bugs you, there are readily available plugs that are magnetic but use a hex socket rather than hex head, and pull down just about flush with the surface. Here is one being installed in my Stag differential (not quite tight yet when the photo was taken)