Gauges dead after wash

[Guest]

Washed her today @ the car wash. Usual outside job w/ a quick spay down of the front crossmemeber and frame rails. Didn't get the engine wet hardly as I was just washing oil off of the frame rails. Didn't shoot electrical stuf either. Shot it from the front underside and P.S as well. Got back in and the gauges and heater doesn't work, everything else is fine. Let it sit a few hours and still the same. All fuses in the fuse box are o.k and a wiggled all the wires going to and from it. Everything seems fine but no worky-worky. Any other fuses somewhere else I need to check? Any ideas? :hammer:

I donb't have a schematic, which color wires go up thata'way?

Thanks

 

[Trevor Jessie]

https://www.spridget-tech.com/page2.html

I'm going to guess bad connections at the fuse box terminals/holders

 

[lbc_newbie]

I'm gonna agree... here's what I found my first day on the Forum!

"Hey fellow MG Midget/Spridget owners! I'm the friend Dave was asking for. He was nice enough to introduce me to this forum. I would really like to thank you guys for coming through on this! JPSmit nailed it with the fusebox lug and the green wires. As soon as I applied a little pressure, the gauges lit up! Looks like a fuse box is in order. A small piece of foil on the end of the fuse seems to be doing the trick for now. I have EVERYTHING working! Blower motor (thought it was a bad switch), brake lights (thought it would cost a fortune to diagnose), temp and fuel gauges. I'll check the tach when I start it up (carb is on the work bench). Glad to have friends like you guys out here. I'll be in touch as I restore my Midget! THANKS!!"

I've since removed the foil! Cleaned the lugs up with a dremmel tool and life is good.

 

[Guest]

I just cleaned them all up and still nothing. No wipers either.

Just went back out and I got it!

The fuse itself was bad. It wasn't blown, but had come "disconnected" from the inside of the end. Looks like it had been corrding for a while. Both meters had bad batteries and I had to use the test light across both ends of the fuse.

Thanks lbc, I started at the green wires since you told me right where to go.

Serves me right, I didn't have the tool kit in the car when I washed it and didn't have spare fuses in it anyway. Got fuses in it now and it will have an "extra" meter in it when I get some hot batteries. Might just put a test light in it so I won't have to worry about bad batteries in an emergency. Thanks guys !!! I'm already for tommorrow, I just need somewhere to go.

 

[CraigZ]

Shortly after I got back on the road with mine I pulled out of the driveway and glanced at the gauges...full tank of fuel. Turned the corner, looked down again and the fuel gauge was heading to "E". Fast. Oh, and no turn signals. No brake lights either I think. Opened hood, spun the fuses...it all came back. I love old cars

 

[Sarastro]

Actually, this is a good case study. I've seen those 1/4" cartridge fuses fail in the way kellysguy describes. The caps are attached with some kind of glue, and it can get crumbly with age and heat, then they come loose. Our cars have plenty of both age and heat, I think.

 

[JPSmit]

Actually, this is a good case study. I've seen those 1/4" cartridge fuses fail in the way kellysguy describes. The caps are attached with some kind of glue, and it can get crumbly with age and heat, then they come loose. Our cars have plenty of both age and heat, I think.

I also suspect that that they actually can burn out at the joint a little easier. My electrical test #1 is always continuity across the fuses.