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Gas tank sealer

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J

Joelb

Jedi Hopeful
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I know this has already come up and I did read the thread on it, but....

I dropped my tank to replace the sending unit and of course there are 28 years worth of rust and sediment in the bottom. Here is my plan:

First I am going to use Simple Green and a pressure washer to break up the loose rust and sediment. Then I want to coat the bottom of the tank with something. Here is my question:

I know there are products out there that will allow you to coat the bottom (inside) of the tank that will seal and lock down any rust that is still present. Has anyone done this and any recommendations for certain products?
 
In a word, POR-15. I have done several tanks with this stuff in the last few years and it really works. You can buy it online but I found a local shop that does it for me at such a good price, I can't really afford to mess with it myself. Whatever system you use, be sure to follow the instructions exactly. A failed sealer inside the tank is probably about the only thing worse than a rusty one.
 
I'd have to agree with Bayless. After I did the calculation on what the products cost, the hazards of using ( I have kids & pets around) and then proper disposal, I decided to go with a local guy. I could have spent a little bit more on a new tank but might have been in the same boat after 10 years.

Here is a shot of the inside of my BGT tank before and of it after boiling etching and sealing by my local radiator shop.

6-29-06-GasTankRemoval020.jpg

tn_7-08-06-Etchedtankasisshots021.jpg
 
The reason I mention after 10 years is the tank is a MOSS repro that the DPO put in and then the car sat for 7 years without use.
 
I'm gonna call the radiator shop tomorrow. I thought briefly about half assing it, but I already have the tank out, so I might as well do it right the first time. Thanks for keeping me straight!

We almost always know what the right thing to do it, but sometimes just need a push in that direction!
 
If you decide to do this yourself, use POR. As others have said, the process can be messy, but at least the chemicals in the POR tank lining kits are safer than most. The cleaner is a strong caustic (think killer Simple Green) but it can safely be dumped down a regular household drain. Following the caustic clean you acid etch the tank with their version of phosphoric acid. You should save the acid you drain out of the tank for re-use. It's not exhausted after cleaning the tank and you'll find it useful for de-rusting other steel parts. When it is finally spent, you can also dump it down a regular household drain. Think of it as Coka-Cola that would dissolve your teeth. Finally, the coating material uses a solvent very similar to lacquer thinner. It cures quickly with minimal fumes.

When you compare this to the other products that use MEK as the solvent, the POR kit is easier, safer, and leaves a better looking lining. It's not expensive either. However, I would be misleading you if I didn't mention its a bit of work. Paying someone to do the job is always going to be easier.
 
Being a plumber for years, take my advice, unless you have PVC running all they way out to the main in the street, never throw anything down the drain that is caustic. It will kill pipes and the havoc it cause downstream gives me the willies.
 
Ok, I finally found a kit here in town. Not POR, but should work.

Is there a way to remove the screen that inside the tank? Will the process destroy the screen?

Going after it tomorrow, too whooped after a day of four sets of wheel bearings.

BTW, Whoever the dumbass was that took care (I use that term lightly) of this car didn't bother to GREASE the bearings when they were replaced last. They also didn't bother replacing any of the rear seals.

New ownership is sooooo much fun!
 
Well... a plumber would certainly know what hurts pipes, but the strength of the caustic cleaner Marine Clean (POR's product) while stronger than Simple Green, certainly is MUCH weaker than Lye and other caustic sodas routinely used to remove clogs.

As for the tank screen, I've only coated tanks for Minis. For them, you drive the filter off the end of the pickup tube and insert a greased heavy gauge electrical wire through the tube during the tank coating process. When the coating is cured you pull the wire back out and put an inline filter between the tank and fuel pump.
 
I found out that the rust remover part of the kit will also remove any plugs that may have been in there. Or maybe it was the pressure washer I used. Anyway, I'm taking the tank to the radiator guy tomorrow.
 
Smart choice. I also had them braze in a drain plug in the lowest part of the tank. The heat from boiling it melted the internal filter but I installed an inline filter up by my carbs.

After I got the tank home I sandblasted it, primed it with an etching primer and painted it with black acrylic polyurethane. Looks like it will hold up.
tn_7-08-06-Etchedtankasisshots032.jpg
 
Outside looks new in any case.
 
Most radiator shop use redkote, you can buy it on ebay for 30-40 bucks and its enough to do two spridget tanks. All cleaning and cleanup is with acetone wich dries in a hurry and the redkote can be diluted with acetone if what left in the can needs to be used later.
 
I was wondering what would happen to that filter. I already have two in line filters so I should be ok.

Tank looks great! I think I'll do the same.
 
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