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Gas pedal play

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AUSMHLY

AUSMHLY

Yoda
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Hi all.

Well I'm getting down to finishing up the small stuff.
I know, it's all a miff.

My gas pedal has some play in it.

The spring seems to be doing it's job OK. I feel the tension and it returns it to it's resting place with pressure.

It has free movement, easy to depress about 1 1/4" till it engages; revs the engine.

How much free movement should it have?

If that is too much, what needs to be done to correct?
Parts worn out? If so, which ones should I look at?
Adjustment somewhere?

Not that I should think this will be an easy fix. That would be wrong. I've heard it may be a bit complex. Involving linkages and a wooden block? Ever wonder where these rumors start? Guilty.

Cheers, Roger
 
Roger,

A few things to consider where the play can be introduced.

1> Loose lever where left hand firewall linkage connects to rod from pedal below.
2> Bushings on rod that runs the length of the firewall just above the tranny tunnel front.
3> Bushings at the pedals

I'll try to find some pics
 
Roger,

Here is a pic but lets also work from the Moss online diagram for Motor, Engine Controls, BT7 twin carbs.
moss web page

The Left Hand Drive pedal assembly (#1 in diagram) has a lever on it and a flat part of the end of the shaft. It notoriously gets loose and cannot be tightened very easily and slips. Some will tack weld this but I choose to drill to one size larger opening and use a larger bolt with one flattened side. The bushings (#21 and #32) on the relay shaft are felt and are bad after 45 years. These should be replaced with nylon ones (Bill Bolton and others have these).

Reach behind and under the firewall and see if the shaft moves up and down, if so the bushings are bad. These bolts are tough to get to but it can be done and may require a slight bending of the bracket (#31) to remove. Consider replacing these with allen heads so the reinstallation and next custodian/owner has an easier go of it. (Tip: If your tranny is out and the tunnel is removed it is easier to get to).

My bet is on the slipping lever attached to the pedal assembly just as it goes into the engine compartment from the pedal box.

Hope I am making sense here.
 

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Pictures would be great!
Thank you!

[/ QUOTE ]
Here is one of the lever that slips. You can just see the shiny nut down in the depths below the linkage. This is tough to get to.
 

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Pictures would be great!
Thank you!

[/ QUOTE ]
And here is one of the relay shaft on one side where the bushing gets replaced from felt to nylon. I had to bend this away from the firewall slightly to get a tool in there. This picture was taken blindly by just reaching the camera down and snapping. How are your contortion skills Rog?
 

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I've found that the British "Haynes" manual does an OK job of covering this topic. It takes a while to understand it, but it covers all the bases, I think. I've been able to replace throttle bushings and adjust pedal position.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Roger,

A very good technical article on throttle linkage repair and set up here:

https://www.vintage-sportscar-touring.ca/technical.html

Cheers,
John

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks for the link John. I could not find it. One of the pics I posted came from Mr Finespanner as you can see. All I had before was a few of the pictures without the text.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Bush 60 on the Moss page is normally a weak rubber grommet which causes a lot of lost motion. Easy to see as well.

good luck

[/ QUOTE ]

I think you are referring to "Item # 59 " which is not really shown correctly but is the only one easily seen.---Keoke
 
There's a third bushing inside the pedal shaft where it just exits the footwell, that too should be replaced. I just went through removing the long shaft up under the dash. The outer bolts were easy, the inner bolts difficult. I cut a large hole (approx. 1") from inside of the cockpit to facilitate access to the remaining 2 bolts. The hole is covered up with carpeting and insulation and a suitable cover/plug will be needed when done. While the linkage is out of the car do weld the brackets where they belong, tightening them from the bolts provided just won't work.
Good Luck Roger
 
[ QUOTE ]
There's a third bushing inside the pedal shaft where it just exits the footwell, that too should be replaced. I just went through removing the long shaft up under the dash. The outer bolts were easy, the inner bolts difficult. I cut a large hole (approx. 1") from inside of the cockpit to facilitate access to the remaining 2 bolts. The hole is covered up with carpeting and insulation and a suitable cover/plug will be needed when done. While the linkage is out of the car do weld the brackets where they belong, tightening them from the bolts provided just won't work.
Good Luck Roger

[/ QUOTE ]

No need to cut holes. This is soft metal and you can simply bend the bracket slightly to get a small tool on. Once off bend them back and change from bolts to hex bolts when reinstalling.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Bush 60 on the Moss page is normally a weak rubber grommet which causes a lot of lost motion. Easy to see as well.

good luck

[/ QUOTE ]

I think you are referring to "Item # 59 " which is not really shown correctly but is the only one easily seen.---Keoke

[/ QUOTE ]


Nope, I definitely mean 'bush 60'
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Bush 60 on the Moss page is normally a weak rubber grommet which causes a lot of lost motion. Easy to see as well.

good luck

[/ QUOTE ]

I think you are referring to "Item # 59 " which is not really shown correctly but is the only one easily seen.---Keoke

[/ QUOTE ]


Nope, I definitely mean 'bush 60'

[/ QUOTE ]
Now you guys have me confused - again? The catalog shows bush 60 & housing 61 as being for a RHD BJ8.

It shows item 59 as a bush/housing for a LHD BJ8. I think Roger's car is a LHD BJ8. Catalog screwed up? or just me?
D
 
--------------Dave ????----Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Oops, sorry to confuse anybody. I was looking at the Moss page which is like my BT7. If I'd have checked I'd have seen we were talking about a BJ8....
 
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