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Garage floor covering?

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NutmegCT

NutmegCT

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Thanks for all the suggestions in my Wood Garage Floor thread.

Now for the nitty-gritty: is it worthwhile to cover *any* garage floor with one of those tile overlays? Not talking epoxy - but tiles, like RaceDeck, etc.

Especially for guys with a concrete floor - what improvement does the new tile covering provide other than pretty?

The ones I've seen online all have relatively irregular surfaces. Seems the tile would be hard to clean up after spills, hard to sweep, etc.

Pretty is fine - but I'm a frugal Yankee, and utility is at the top of my criteria.

Thanks.
Tom
 
Tom, I too keep looking at those floors and I think <think> they are mostly decorative. All I can imagine is the minute you put the car on a jackstand, the legs will cut into the tile. I do have a friend who put linoleum tiles down in a black and white checkerboad pattern (using squares of four tiles) - but, his shop is mostly for display. I figure, keep it simple, My floor is battleship grey epoxy floor paint that I picked up cheap at a discount store.

In terms of your earlier conversation, I can't really add much except to wonder whether two layers of 1X tongue and groove installed at 90 deg to each other might be strong than one layer of 2X ? (it might be cheaper too or at least easier to find used). You could then even drop some 1/2 ply on top for neatness or ease of cleanup knowing that what is underneath is solid - and, if you we carefull in the installation (ie not 10,000 nails, you could change out the ply every couple of years for a cleaner piece.

If you are bored, read this, probably my favourite garage project on the entire planet. (and as a teaser see what he covers the floor with!)

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36583
 
A thought occurred (happens rarely, but eventually) -

If the garage floor is wood construction, seems there'd be a issue with moisture rising from the ground underneath.

If that's the case, seems that *any* floor covering (epoxy, tile, linoleum, etc.) would "trap" the moisture, leading to moisture damage, mold, etc.

Sound right? If so, then only a temp cover like a cardboard sheet would be appropriate (oil drips, etc.).

- or am I just over-thinking again.

Tom
 
Put a moisture barrier on top of the joists before you put down whatever you choose for flooring.
 
Moisture barrier. Good grief - my mind is totally gone.

14%252520-%2525201.jpg
 
Tom, Before putting any wooden structure over dirt a vapor barrier should be laid down. Construction grade plastic can be had at Home Depot, Lowes etc boxed in 10X100 foot folded rolls. Cover entire area, overlapping the joints and pinning to the ground. Best to cover with a thin blanket of stone to keep it flat. No worries about moisture, but a couple small vents under the wood wouldn't hurt.
A moisture barrier on top of the joists only protects the floor, not the wood underneath, which is just as important. Protecting the structure wood will automatically protect the floor. PJ
 
In my area of the country, wood in contact with soil becomes a magnet for termites. Make sure any wood you use resists them.
 
John Turney said:
Thanks for this link; That has to be one of the most fascinating garage stories anywhere.
Click to expand...

You are welcome - I love it (just reread it myself) sadly he hasn't updated in months
 
I covered my concreted garage floor with reclaimed commercial floor tiles (about twice as thick and heavy as the domestic ones). Being used they were a bit grubby (I chose 'C' grade rather than 'A' grade - mostly coffee stains an indentations from filing cabinets etc) but they cost 25 GBP to cover my double garage with some to spare so if I have a major oil spillage I can just replace then. Also if I'm doing anything involving heat I can just lift a few and give myself an area of floor with just a concrete base. Also a lot warmer to lie on than concrete when working under the car.

You can see them in the photo below (the photo makes them look a lot grubbier than they are in the flesh and they were due a sweep!)...

20141123_150710_zps589a752e.jpg
 
Steve - what was the reason you decided to put something over the concrete?
 
Comfort mainly. The concrete was both cold and hard on my bones. Unfortunately I'm the proverbial skinny kid, I don't have any natural padding! It also stops the concrete dust and was way cheaper (and easier to install) than garage floor paint or the pukka garage floor coverings. I can now extend my time in the garage further into winter without suffering from frozen feet.
 
Thanks Steve. Say, my eyes are worse than I thought. What are you standing by, in your avatar photo? It looks like a 1950s rotorcycle ...

Tom
 
It would be a big bike. Its the Healey engine hanging on my engine crane with the stripped bodytub behind.
 
Lay down heavy roofing felt before laying out floor joists. Maybe a thick layer plastic under that first as a moisture weep preventive. That way upper wood is separated from moisture and will not absorb from ground. Upper wood could be sealed then and would not be attacked from underneath. Make a small trench for fluids to move away from area as spills in garage could then be cleaned up if it got through flooring.
 
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