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Fuses?

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Driven76

Senior Member
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Hey Guys,

I just popped a fuse today, and unfortunately I haven't been able to find the recomended fuses at any stores in my area.

My owners manual says they are 35amp Lucas# 188218 or Standpart# 58465.

The stores I checked with tell me their standard 35amp glass bulb fuses should be fine. But I'm afraid these guys are just assuming they should work, and I don't want to fry anything.

Are domestic fuses OK, or do I need to find the recommended Lucas or Standpart fuse?

If so, does anyone know of any domestic automotive chains that may carry them?

Thanks,
Roger
 
No, the rating for the Lucas fuses are the point at which they will blow. The fuses we get here are rated for continuous amperage. You have to cut the rating in about 1/2. Get some 20 amp glass fuses that fit and you will be OK.
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif AGC 20 will work fine, although they are very slightly larger physically than the Lucas fuses.
 
Here's a quick reference, courtesy of our own Dave Russell.
Thanks again, Dave.
Jeff

Brit (Lucas)--------US (SFE AGC)
5-----------------------3
10----------------------5
20---------------------10
25---------------------15
30---------------------15
35---------------------20
50---------------------25
 
Moss and others still sell gen-yoo-wine Lucas fuses in the correct rating. I get them, open them up with a soldering iron, insert a vintage style fuse paper, and button them up again.

You can also do this with the 20a US fuses but it's easier with the Lucas ones because the fuse wire comes thru a little hole in the cap.

If you use 14a US fuses they are actually closer to the physical size of the old Lucas 35a. I have used those and never had them blow from a load.

Fuses.JPG


Looks like I have time on my hands... actually I just like the little details.

Oh my, that fuse holder does look groddy... it's dirt not corrosion but still I need to clean it. On a TR4 there is a cover on the fuse holder so you don't realize things are getting a nice layer of oil film+dust until you have occasion to look.

PS: I see that the closest fuse (in use) is actually a US 20 amp blade-type... I can just see the "2" in the pic.
 
Dont forget on a 6 you should add some fuses in line with the brown wires that come off the positive cable.These are the Achillies heal of the whole system and take UN-PROTECTED power into the dash!!!!I suggest 30 amp on the large wires and 20 on the lighter ones.Its cheap insurance.
MD(mad dog)
 
MDCanaday said:
Dont forget on a 6 you should add some fuses in line with the brown wires that come off the positive cable.These are the Achillies heal of the whole system and take UN-PROTECTED power into the dash!!!!
Click to expand...
Same thing applies to all Triumphs AFAIK. However, don't forget that on the earlier cars (including early TR6), the charging current also goes behind the dash. You may want something stouter than a 30 amp fuse for those wires.

The other thing to keep in mind is one of the reasons given for not using a fuse in the first place ... you would probably rather have a wire overheat and smoke than have your headlights go out suddenly while driving at speed. Having had mine go out (due to an overheated fuse) while descending a Colorado mountain at 70-80 mph; I can see some basis for this argument /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
Thanks again everyone... looks like I have another thing to add to my winter "To-Do" list. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
TR3driver said:
The other thing to keep in mind is one of the reasons given for not using a fuse in the first place ... you would probably rather have a wire overheat and smoke than have your headlights go out suddenly while driving at speed. Having had mine go out (due to an overheated fuse) while descending a Colorado mountain at 70-80 mph; I can see some basis for this argument /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
Click to expand...

This is Dan Master's stance on headlight fuses. He doesn't include them in the headlight circuitry of his wiring harness/power block for just this reason.

Edit: Dan mentions it in the instruction pdf. It's on page three of the pdf, page one of his manual.
 
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