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Fuse/relay box

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Rut

Rut

Obi Wan
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I'm looking for a fuse/relay box to put under my dash on the Bugeye. The relays I'm considering are: headlights, dimmer, fog/driving lights, brake lights, turn signals, wipers, heater fan, and radiator fan. I may add a 12 volt outlet and a power wire for a radio. This would mean I need a 10 relay box along with the appropriate number of fuse slots.
Does anyone have a source for these and has anyone put the relays behind the dash? If so, I would love to see pictures along with a 'how to' since I'm 'electrickery challenged'! Scott sent me a copy of his project from back in the day, but my old PC has gone bye bye.
Thanks, Rut
 
Rut, you may have a tough time with that many relays fitting behind dash. However British wiring can provide a relay box for you to splice into your harness. I choose to have Auto Spark build the relays into my harness at the time of construction so the additional wires could be incorporated into the harness. I also used the late model 4 fuse box too, this box has 16 terminals to fuse.


View attachment 32426
 
Alan,
what I'm trying to do is very similar to yours and there should be ample room behind my dash. I tried working with Autosparks and they kept referring me to British wiring here in the US and we got nowhere. I wish I'd known the magic word to have everything incorporated into the harness!
i want to mount mine on an aluminum plate with the relays and fuses facing downward to give me access without having to reach 'up and over'.
Thanks, Rut
 
Rut, Scott told me that panel he used is NLA/Vendor he bought it from is no longer in business. I do have a copy of his wiring diagram or I'm sure he will send. I know Robert Kirk?, a dealer on mgexp.com can order directly from Auto Sparks.

BlueMax, how much more to add in the relays to mount behind the dash. I do like the idea of being able to unplug or change a fuse from below as needed without having to pull the dash out.
 
Jim_Gruber said:
BlueMax, how much more to add in the relays to mount behind the dash.

I would like like to know as well...I may return my new harness if the price is decent.
thanks, Rut
Click to expand...
 
Rut, at the time I ordered the largest bulk of parts for the Healey shortly after the financial crises hit. The Pound took a dunk and I knew that it wouldn’t stay their long!! So it was a huge savings at that time comparatively.

I was dealing with the same issue with Auto Spark sending me to British Wiring. So I contracted AH Spares to have it built for me, since the majority of my parts was coming from AH Spares, they were more than willing to oblige. I then was able to communicate with Auto Spark indirectly through AH Spares since AH Spares was actually ordering it not me. It was difficult to say the least, I can’t say how well everything works until engine is in for final powering up harness. But everything so far has be working pretty well as far as placement and color codes. They did label the additional wires but not relays.

You will find as I did that your space will quickly fill up with other components to prohibit mobility and functionality of the relays. As you can see the main kill switch is right next to the relay support bracket which I made out of angled aluminum. The relays are interlock with each other by design so there is only two bolts one on each end to secure. I chose to have the fuse box under bonnet which is simpler to check; As well I have no voltage regulator, so I asked them to eliminate that in my design which gives a cleaner look. The main power is supplied to master kill switch which is passenger side of battery box.
 
Thanks Scott. Now I need to figure out a substitute relay panel. Maybe Jeg's or Pegasaus catalog .
 
Jim, as I suggested to Rut, it would be an easy build......here is the photo of mine. fusebox.JPG
Scott in CA
 
You could also build a shelf to allow it to be mounted face down to allow for easier fuse/relay replacement. There was another guy that had his mounted on a hinge so that it could flip down for easy service.
 
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Thanks Trevor.
 
Trevor,
Thanks for the hinge idea, that would be very doable.
Rut
 
Access for my fuse and relay box is not too bad......long nose pliers and the fuse come right out.
Scott in CA
 
So Bill was the guy ...
 
I like that!
Rut
 
Ten relays seem like more than you really need. I'm not sure how you got that total, but if it was based on separate relays for the left and right headlights, you really don't need that.

Here's what I did with my TD: https://www.nonlintec.com/mgtd/electrics/#wiring. The relays are mounted in a box and the fuses are on the outside for easy access. I am assuming that, once it's tested and working, I won't need frequent access to the inside, so it's OK if it takes a little effort to get into it.

And the Sprite: https://www.nonlintec.com/sprite/electrical/

In the TD, four of the relays in the TD were needed to implement the turn signals, and you won't need those. I don't think a relay is needed for the turn signals in the Bugeye; it's just a cheap toggle switch that is easy to replace. The main reason for using relays is to get the high currents out of the switches that are expensive and hard to replace, and which have too much voltage drop. Also, you really can benefit from better fusing.

For wiring parts, I like Waytek: https://www.waytekwire.com. There are other such places, https://www.wiringproducts.com/, https://www.autorewire.com/. I've never tried the last one, but some of their stuff looks interesting.

You can also get automotive relays from general electronics distributors such as Digi-key. Do a search for automotive relays. You'll get much better quality than the ones from your local parts store, and they will be cheaper.
 
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