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Fuse box
- Thread starter rjc157
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rjc, I added a new fuse box, as a matter of fact I added two. On your original fuse box one fuse is supplied by the ignition switch and one is supplied by constant power. I forget which is which, top or bottom. But the one that has all the green wires on it is the one supplied by the ignition switch. I wanted all these green wires to have their own fuse. To tell which is which, one fuse will be hot only when the ignition switch is on. So decided instead of crowding them all at the original location, and some may not reach the new fuses anyway, that I would move the fuse box inside and splice the green wires longer to the new location. I spliced them out and pushed them thru a grommet in the firewall. I added a second fuse box inside as well for the fuse that is not on the ignition switch (I think that is the bottom original fuse but not sure). The fuse box supplied by the ignition switch is mounted on the bulkhead above the brake an clutch pedals. And the other fuse box is mounted above the passengers feet. (you can just barely see it in one of the pics). The second fuse box has the horn, radio, and cell phone, i-pad accessory plugs. I deliberately did not want these supplied thru the ignition switch so as to keep from added more current draw thru that switch. Hope my pics come thru, and hope this helps some. Dave.
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rjc, I just thinking that one of the issues that arises when wanting to add a new fuse box is that the new fuse box will be larger. The two existing fuses in the original fuse box are completely separate and can not be added to one new fuse box. The one new fuse box is usually supplied by "one" source, unless you find a fuse box that can be sectioned into separate modules with different sources. That's why I chose to use two fuse boxes. Having said all this, now I'm guessing that maybe there is/are newer fuses boxes from other little british cars that have two separate sections and do hold more than two fuses. But since my exposure to other LBCs is limited I do not know of them. Dave.
TimK
Jedi Knight
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I added a J.C. Whitney double feed fuse box. It has one side fed by ignition switch and the other direct from battery. The appropriate side is used for each circuit. It only had 10 fuse slots, so I added in-line fuses for the horn, OD solenoid, and rear lights (red wires). It is not an elegant solution, but effective with minimal re-wiring. Just had to install connectors.
andrea
Jedi Knight
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Ăą
Hi rjc
My problem with the FUSES was the concours guide- so I followed the ortodox way wiring original the car-- BUT HIDING the fuses on the rear of the DASH
Here my working drawing: https://picasaweb.google.com/112770819864514987162/DropBox#5554182528060375954
I have used the spade fuse for easy reparability -- but with a special holding (find on ebay.com)
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770819864514987162/DropBox#6178823140265704658
LED came ON, if FUSE is NOT in working order:wink-new:
tahoe healey
Yoda
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I mounted a second fuse box and 3 relays in an "alcove" behind the radio/heater. I ran wires through the existing wiring harness grommets. I'm not sure why that space is there (BJ8) but it is completely hidden and out of the way. I found a "Hide-a-Key" box there with a set of original keys in it when I bought the car.
TH
TH
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The one your showing is for the non-BJ8 cars. The BJ8's have 6 fuses and the green wires are on the left side. This wasn't known by Charlie until I installed the earlier car unit in my BJ8 which I made work by turning it upside down. Charlie sent me a new one he created fro the BJ8's and I sold the other one to a club member. I still would like to see a cover made for it.I like the Charlie Hart fusebox - it mounts in the existing position.
I believe Charlie's on this forum.
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steveg
Yoda
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Absolutely 100%.