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TR2/3/3A Further to "plugging the thermostat bypass hose"/

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So, gotta' ask. I have always run the correct thermostat with the shroud and never had a single problem with my cooling system. Is all of this "extra" work just to save having to pay for the correct thermostat??
 
Actually without the valve the heater is always ā€œonā€.
I insulated the heater box with a Dynomat type product so with the scuttle vent closed there is no heat in the cockpit in the summer. Since I donā€™t have a top for the car, in the winter the heat at my feet is always welcome. Years ago I got two leaky repop heater valves in a row and decided to just bypass it temporarily. After a while I decided I was better off without it. Is the same as back on my old TR 3 where I would just leave the manual valve open all the time.
 
CJD said:
So, gotta' ask. I have always run the correct thermostat with the shroud and never had a single problem with my cooling system. Is all of this "extra" work just to save having to pay for the correct thermostat??
Click to expand...
If good versions of the correct ā€˜stat in various heat ranges were readily available at a reasonable price I would definitely use them.
That said I still think coolant flow is better through the head with the heater valve open, and that also functions the same as the bypass
 
I tried blocking the bypass, but later decided to just leave it in place, use a modern thermostat and install an electric fan. Iā€™ve never overheated since then.
 
When you say "Removed the heater control valve" did you plumb the heater in full time or bypass the heater by connecting the heater in and heater out together?

I did notice that when I installed a 160 degree thermostat my TR3 ran much cooler. Never getting above 160 si I went to a 180 thermostat. In cold weather I never get to the 180 mark but in the summer it runs around 180+
I do have the restriction in the bypass.

David
 
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