Fun with Manifolds....

[mrv8q]

Hello, BCFers, this is concerning my '74 TR6; I'm in the midst of refreshing all the water hoses, intake and exhaust gaskets, etc. I've got a couple questions about studs:

This shows the block, minus the intake manifold and carbs. Volume 1 of the Spare parts catalog, plate AK, shows (4) 105124 studs (shorter), and (6) 105125 studs, (longer). Can anyone say specifically where the shorter studs go? This car was a mish-mash of bolts instead of studs; also, I've never worked on a car where more studs came out instead of the nuts. Also in the pic, there are 3 holes up top where the intake manifold attaches. Plate BY shows these three studs as 111456. Does anyone know what kind of stud this is? (uses a 1/2" nut to secure, instead of a 9/16ths). I'd rather run down to my FLAPS to get them, instead of waiting for TRF; the old ones were nearly destroyed getting them out...
Replacing the studs, should I use a Thread-locker, like Loctite red, on the cylinder block side?

Lastly, sadly, here is the water pipe thru the intake manifold:

Can these pipes be replaced; any recommendations? Thanks, all!

 

[Guest]

I would strongly recommend you give TRF a call and order all new studs for your manifolds. Those studs are all fine-thread/fine-thread and are not that easy to find on the open market. They really aren't that expensive. If the studs are kinda tight, run the appropriate tap inside the hole. I wouldn't recommend any kind of thread locker.

 

[RonMacPherson]

Okay,

my input, which will differ from Louisiana's. Any good 6 supplier should be able to get the studs for you. I'd be shopping cost shipping on these. TRF, Moss, BP Northwest, TRI, Rimmer, etc.

When you do install them, after cleaning the threads in the head with a tap, use blue or red loctite where they go into the head, use antifreeze on the outer threads where the nuts go, and MAKE SURE you use new lockwashers. Also, I recommend Moss motors heavy duty manifold gasket. On the cooling pipe. Take it down to your friendly full service machine shop and see what they say. Sometimes the straight pipe can be cut, and tapped for a threaded pipe. For the angle one???? I live in warm climate, so I bypassed the one on mine when I was still running the Strombergs.

 

[Brosky]

As far as the studs go, this is what you want that to look like when you go back together.

Please note that you should have three (3) dowel pins (one in each center) to support the manifolds as well.

EDIT: You are also missing the six (6) clamps that fit on the lower studs that hold the intake and exhaust manifolds down and bridge the gap between the two at the joints. TRF part #58258. Get all new nuts and lock washers as well. No time for shortcuts.

 

[Brosky]

More views of all studs and then where the shorter ones go. No thread locker on these, but tap out the original holes to match the new studs so you don't end up cross threaded.

Now is a great time to (bypass) the big valve in your picture with a nice brass plug.

 

[Brosky]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] Can these pipes be replaced; any recommendations? [/QUOTE]

My last post for the night. Try your local radiator shop as well. Some of them specialize in classic restorations and will be able to weld a pipe in there for you. Yellow pages or Google will help find them.

Good luck......

 

[mrv8q]

Please note that you should have three (3) dowel pins (one in each center) to support the manifolds as well.

Funny, Paul, you mentioned that.... until I looked at page 31 of the SPC Vol.#1:
DS3113: Dowel: Some models may require only 2 offered.

Sure enough, mine has a blanking plug in the center position... Thanks for the additional pix. They look great, and I'll study them before I order; I think this time from Moss, because ot the quick turnaround here on the West Coast... Sure enough, I 'll have to order two additional clamps. Thanks again!

 

[vettedog72]

When I was at the manifold studs I had a few that broke when extracted. The new replacements from TRF did not resemble the oem's, (did not fit in the block because of size and threads) so I took a few down to a good hardware store and got replacements that would fit in the block and bought new nuts (and washers) to fit. I wanted the originals but did not want to wait for the shipping. My head was unaltered as far as stud bores and threads go the ones from TRF just did not match up. I mention this to let you know you can find quality studs for the manifold at a good hardware store.

 

[vettedog72]

OOOups,
I forgot to mention that (good) used intake manifolds are around for less that $50. You may find a polished one for a little more (big improvement in the looks department). In LA talent for welding and metal fabricating for hobby projects seems to be basic lunch time extra $'s for welders. I think these guys could weld plastic wrap to steel, so aluminum to steel pipe should not present a real challenge.

 

[bash]

I had the same rusted water pipe problem, and after wondering about the options and costs of repair, I looked in the TRF catalogue - they had the manifolds in stock for $75 list price - I think I paid a little over $50 with the discounts in effect at the time. Made more sense to me than getting it repaired.

 

[Brosky]

Bash,

If you can get one, that is the ideal way to solve the situation.

 

[70herald]

Those pipes were originally cast in place. I currently have the same problem, and the manifold I need while available used is not exactly cheap. I am solving this problem by forcing a length of copper tubing (LPG gas tubing) through the original hole. Since one one end the pipe is supported by the water pump, and on the other end, it is attached to the return pipe, there is very little mechanical stress on that pipe. If I get a chance, I may pick up some stainless steel piping instead.
Yisrael