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Full Service Advise for '68 Sprite MKIV

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NullReturned

NullReturned

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Happy Holidays Everyone!

So, with my holiday travel all said and done, I can now start on my 1968 Sprite MKIV. I have all the electrical I need to work though (thanks again for everyone who weighed in) but I should really do a Full Service to ensure that everything is all set. So I'm looking for recommendations on what to use for optimal performance:

1.) Oil Change items (Oil to use, filters, etc)
2.) Brake Fluid (I assume this matters less on type)
3.) Spark Plugs
...etc.

Thanks in advance from a Spridget newbie, and apologies in advance if this is listed somewhere else... I searched and can't find it for the life of me!
 
Happy New Year!

glad you are cracking on with this.

Absolutely, fluids.

Unless you know the history on the car, can I suggest,

1. Brake hoses - including the single hose in front of the gas tank.
2. Rad hoses - just because
3. Front bushings
4. Fuel filter - replace or add.

and, eventually,

5. rebuild carbs

Not difficult jobs - any of them - but, will make the car much much more reliable & fun
 
Most folks here use 20W-50 in the crankcase (4 quarts) and in the transmission as well (2 1/2 quarts -- don't overfill!!!).

Transmission empties from the bottom, but you have to refill through an access panel on the driver's side of the transmission tunnel near the radio box.

Also make sure you change the fluid in the rear diff -- 80-90 gear oil. It empties from the bottom. The filler tube is on the top of the axle on the right side. You check the fluid with the plug on the rear of the pumpkin...fill it up to the level of the bottom of the plug.

+1 on replacing the hoses, including the oil breather hoses and the vacuum line that goes from the front carb to the vacuum thingy-dingy that resides near the distributor. Radiator belt, too, if you don't know the car's history.

Air filters

Also make sure you lube up all the grease zerks. IIRC, there are 13 of them. I have a chart somewhere that gives the exact location and number.

Remove the valve cover -- adjust the valves, put a new valve cover gasket on.

These cars are remarkably simple, and as you go through the car, you'll learn your own car's specific idiosyncrasies and you'll become more confident because YOU know the condition of almost every nut and bolt that makes up the car.
 
The one zerk you cannot find will be on the front U Joint on the driveshaft.

Castrol LMA for Brake Clutch Fluid - Buy by the quart on Web - cheap that way.

x3 on Brake Hoses - They have a max 10 year Service Life and there should be a Mfd date on the hoses - They have a habit of collapsing internally and show no external signs they are not working properly.

Speedbleeders make it easy to bleed brake and clutch lines - Speed bleeder sizes:
Clutch (all spridgets) 3/8 x 24
Disc brakes 3/8 x 24 front drum brakes 3/8 x 24
Rear brakes (1 piston 1/4 leaf springs) 3/8 x 24 - Bugeye and Mk 2 Sprites, Mk 1 Midgets
Rear brakes (2 piston wheel cylinder, semi eliptical leaf springs) 1/4 x 28

You can find on the Web
 
Jim_Gruber said:
The one zerk you cannot find will be on the front U Joint on the driveshaft.

Castrol LMA for Brake Clutch Fluid - Buy by the quart on Web - cheap that way.

x3 on Brake Hoses - They have a max 10 year Service Life and there should be a Mfd date on the hoses - They have a habit of collapsing internally and show no external signs they are not working properly.

Speedbleeders make it easy to bleed brake and clutch lines - Speed bleeder sizes:
Clutch (all spridgets) 3/8 x 24
Disc brakes 3/8 x 24 front drum brakes 3/8 x 24
Rear brakes (1 piston 1/4 leaf springs) 3/8 x 24 - Bugeye and Mk 2 Sprites, Mk 1 Midgets
Rear brakes (2 piston wheel cylinder, semi eliptical leaf springs) 1/4 x 28

You can find on the Web
Click to expand...

You should probably drive it enough to find out if there is more brake work needed before fitting new hoses. You would have the brake system torn down anyway and might as well do everything needed at the same time. If the car was mine I would grease, check fluids and change oil if its needed and drive it. Anything further needed will be evident with a little use.

Kurt.
 
I agree mostly with Kurt. Drive it and fix what breaks UNLESS you are planning on a lot of long distance high speed traveling. In that case use the more fanatical approach and prefix everything.

Neither of my MGB's or AH 100/6 got any kind of unusual preventive maint. On the other hand they never strayed more than 75 miles from the home base. Bob
 
Invest in a spare set of points, a condenser, a couple of spare fuses, and maybe a coil and fanbelt. Also make sure you have a toolkit aboard. As the ad for the NY Lottery says "Hey- you never know". Make sure the carbs have sufficient oil in the dashpots. And of course get a workshop manual. Good luck.
 
Tony Barnhill used to have a full inspection/maintenance list on his website theautoist...unfortunately with Tony's passing I don't believe the website exists anymore. I have a printed copy of the list I can scan if anyone is interested.
 
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