• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Full day of work

Share this page

Baz

Baz

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
Had a great time today.
c7c8eee7d8fc14e27d33ba2e61f8cbb30_large.jpg


Put the carbs back together with all new stuff*, cleaned the header and scrubbed the block and popped the new studs in. Radiator and all new cooling lines tomorrow and all I'm waiting on now, is the head to come back from the machine shop all sparkly with new valves etc....
Hopefully I can get her started up while the weather is still in the 50's, if there are any problems, I still have a season to repair, but I don't anticipate any.
* Yeah, the carbs, still haven't put that throttle linkage on yet, I have new springs, carbs worry me.
 
Boy, that's good looking stuff. How's the rest of the engine room look?
 
[ QUOTE ]
How's the rest of the engine room look?

[/ QUOTE ]

Er, well, that's where I have a confession to make. It will look good, but until I can get a full strip, blast and paint, the engine bay will be freshly painted black and shiny. Probably with bed liner paint. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
The cyl head and valve cover, both stock, will get the evil cleaner and aluminum gloss paint like the header did.
I've some grommets to replace in the firewall first.
 
Nice work, Barry. That exhaust manifold cleaned up nicely. I'll have to do that with the one for my 1275. Don't panic about the carbs. SUs have only a couple of adjustments, so there's only so much you can do wrong (or right for that manner).

You're shaming me -- haven't touched the Midget in quite a while. Maybe this week...
 
Geez Drew... It don't cost money to disassemble! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
The car is as disassembled as it can get for now. Next step is to remove the engine and transmission. Need to line up a lift and a few friends for that. Don't want to pull the suspension bits until the engine is out. Hoping to have it all finished up by the end of November, so I can get the shell and extra parts on the way to new owners.
 
Ah. I thought you'd have the "crew" assembled this weekend. But I understand: crane rental=$$...

Please pardon my rib jabbin' /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif
 
pull the springs before you pull the motor, it is much easier to do when there is weight on them.

mark
 
Hadn't thought about pulling the springs first. Makes sense, though.

I'm hoping maybe to have some folks together for next weekend. Had to finish up some pre-winter projects around the house today, including putting away the motorcycle. Bummer. That's all cleared up now, so the calendar is open for some wrenching!

And no worries, Doc. I can take it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Take your time Drew ('specially if you've been under the weather), but too long (like me) that I've forgotten where things go and what parts are what. I spent 1/2 hour this morning scrubbing a pipe that I was going to re-use, but realized that I had a new one in a box. ~Trash~
P.S. That header was courtesy of Chem-dip & DupliColor 1200 degree engine paint.
 
Drew it looks good, I am jealous of the braided fueline, did you get that new?

As for the springs you'll be fine without the engine in it. Worse case is that you may need to use a few longer bolts on the outside to pull them in. I didn't have to, but just in case you can swing it later and keep your focus.

As I had mentioned before, go with the 1275 springs and if budget provides put in new ones with shims. 3/4 should work fine with new ones, but 1/2 will work good with used 1275 stock. The 3/4 can be made out of 1/2 ID square tubing, and the 1/2 can be bought from Moss (or made from the same). Put the offset trunion bushings in from Moss and you will squat out nice in the front.

If not you can do this in the future, but definitely, put the 1275 springs in with the engine in or out and see how she sits. It can be tweeked later.

Patrick
 
That's Barry's work, Patrick. My SUs still look like greasy piles of parts. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
VB # 1-067 for carb to carb and 1-066 for the fuel pipe to carb SS. Didn't see them in any other catalog.
Just shy of $10 ea, but they are a perfect fit.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Didn't see them in any other catalog.


[/ QUOTE ]

I stock them, Baz. Just like a LOT of other stuff /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Ed
 
Ed, I have a dumb question. How do we know what you carry. Am I just stupid or where do I find such on your web site if it is there?
 
I was just reading in the MG forum about heat shields, mine is 'naked', does it have to be covered with something such as ceramic paint, or can it remain naked....?
 
naked? looks like you painted it. the heat shield is there to simply block the direct heat from the engine, so i don't think it has to be covered/protected with anything.
 
Heat shealds on 948s and 1275s do not have any covering but for paint. The same color as the engine.
 
They originally had an asbestos "blanket" riveted to the underside. You can go to NAPA and get a piece of safer, more "modern" insulating material for replacement. They have it in rolls.
 
Back
Top