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fulcrum pin loosen

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robolab

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I am restoring the front suspension at my BJ8

How can I loosen the fulcrum pin in the inner wishbone hole in the front suspension?

I can screw off the castellated nut. The bolt cannot be driven out, however. Rustloosener (WD40) does not help either. It also is not possible to drive it out with a mandrel.
 
robolab said:
I am restoring the front suspension at my BJ8

How can I loosen the fulcrum pin in the inner wishbone hole in the front suspension?

I can screw off the castellated nut. The bolt cannot be driven out, however. Rustloosener (WD40) does not help either. It also is not possible to drive it out with a mandrel.
Click to expand...
I assume you have lossened the hex nut(or removed it), on the bottom of the kingpin and "tapped" the stud that the hex nut was attached to so the tapered pin will allow the fulcrum poin to slide out?
 
How can I loosen the fulcrum pin in the inner wishbone hole in the front suspension.

There are special small[ Ball Joint ] presses that you can purchase that press those pins out.Some times a pair of Ballpien hamers can be used to strike the retaining arm simultaneously and produce a shock that will free the pin. Additionally achicel like tool called a " Pickel Fork " is available also.--Fwiw--Keoke
 
I did this a couple of weeks. Followed the plan as below - it's available from a couple of sources - All four bolts popped out easily.I think I used a 2" bolt and a large penny washer. There are two bushes one internal and one external. Unlike me don't forget to remove the external bush otherwise the one of the wishbone arms will not come out. Don't forget the large washer must be retained.


HT to :- [url=dhttps://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/142125264id][url=dhttps://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/142125264id]dhttps://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/142125264id[/url][/url]

Brilliant and cost nothing.
 
Thanks for your help. I will try your proposal.

What internal and external bushes do you mean. I assume there are only two rubber bushes in the wishboneeye.

Gerd
 
Every wishbone has two rubbers (halves)
The standard rubbers have a steel bush inside
That's why the bolt sticks ...

When the bolt is out, one of the rubbers must come out too
Its the one nearest to the nut behind the large washer

Polybushes don't have the steel insert, so they don't stick / rust

Hans
 
Gerd, I had trouble removing the inner fulcrum pins on my BT7 a few years ago. No amount of penetrant, hammering or prying helped. I finally used a hand held electric reciprocating saw (also called a Sawzall) with a metal blade to cut the pins. New ones are available from the normal suppliers. The pins were frozen to the bushings. I don't think I could have ever pushed them out.
 
A lot thanks to for your answers.

I attempted everything. Also the procedure suggested by tonyk did not bring any success.
I will have to cut presumably the bolts with the saw like Rob Glasgow

Also the screwed caps in the outer wischbone holes can not be unscrewed.
Must be sawed also here? Or is there another suggestion?

Gerd
 
robolab said:
A lot thanks to for your answers.

I attempted everything. Also the procedure suggested by tonyk did not bring any success.
I will have to cut presumably the bolts with the saw like Rob Glasgow

Also the screwed caps in the outer wischbone holes can not be unscrewed.
Must be sawed also here? Or is there another suggestion?

Gerd
Click to expand...
My experience with these is that the curved cutout portion of these pins must be aligned just right for installation as well as dismantle. If they turn a little then they are not frozen and the pin that hold them in place is not in perfect alignment to remove them. After you remove the hex nut tap the pin with a hammer to align it so the cover cap can be removed. If you tap it in too much you'll have to install the hex nut and pull it back until it's in alignment with the cap.
 
The screwed caps are completely frozen. It is not possible to turn the Nuts a little. The curved cutout portion of the pins is aligned.
 
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