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TR2/3/3A Fuel Shutoff Valve
- Thread starter CJD
- Start date
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OP
CJD
Yoda
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So far I have sent plugs to:
Chuck M
Perry F
James AM
Keith J
Tim K
Andrew H
They will go out today USPS. My wife had "other" thoughts about charging anything for them. I guess that's why they call her my better half. These are really so small that they all fit on a single 12" length of $12 brass, and the O-rings were literally $.03. In other words it's not worth the postage to send me anything for what they cost!
I do have a bit of a concern over the fit, not my tolerances, but Triumph often tends to have a wide variation. So please check them if you can...let me know if there are any fit issues and I'll cut a replacement to your particular specs.
Below is the instruction sheet I am sending with them. The main items that must be done to make the plug work is to smooth the valve cylinder bore with fine paper...essentially "hone" it smooth. And also use a Dremel with a ball nose to smooth the cylinder wall around the screw hole and fuel port. This is important to prevent the sharp holes from cutting the o-ring and cause a fuel leak.
Triumph TR2/3 Brass Fuel Valve Mod
Disclaimer: I am afraid that I need to add this to the instructions, just so everyone understands my position. I am not a working engineer and cannot vouch for the longevity of this mod. I can say that I have designed it to the best of my ability and do have it working on my TR2. But, it is up to you or your installer to make sure you properly install this mod and test for leakage both initially and at occasional intervals. We are dealing with gasoline! If you have any doubts, don’t use this mod, and you can keep it as a novelty. I cannot be responsible for fuel leaks since I am not doing the installation myself.
Installation is very simple.
1) Take apart your fuel valve and clean all the parts. Be certain that all are in good shape and not damaged.
2) Install the brass plug provided in place of the original cork seal. The face with the o-ring will go to the inside of the valve, or outside of the valve body, and against the brass through bolt.
3) Snug the through bolt and lock nut to hold the plug firmly. There is no need to over tighten. The o-ring will provide the seal so long as it is held snuggly.
4) Before installing the valve body back into the valve cylinder, you MUST use a small Dremel to remove burrs from both the locking screw hole and the side fuel port! This is the most important step of the installation. As the cylinder came from the factory, there are burrs on the inside of the screw and fuel port holes. I use a Dremel with a ball end to reach into the holes and round off the inside of the holes where they meet the inside of the cylinder.
5) Smooth the inside of the cylinder with fine sandpaper wrapped around a pencil erasure or similar, to ensure a good surface for the o-rings to seal against. Polishing would be even better.
6) Now you can reinstall the valve body into the cylinder. Use oil or light grease, and be certain that the o-rings do not catch on the edge of the screw hole. If they do try to hang up on the screw hole, then round the cylinder edges more with the Dremel. If the o-rings are damaged by the fuel hole, then replace with new ½” by 1/16” rings. The end o-ring is 3/8” by 1/16”. Both are readily available from Ace, or any other hardware supply.
Note: My biggest fear is that the plugs may have fit issues due to Triumphs wide tolerances. If there are any fit issues, please PM me on the forum, letting me know what did not fit and I will send a replacement plug. No need to return this one.
That’s it! Enjoy a valve that shouldn’t leak like the original cork does.
Chuck M
Perry F
James AM
Keith J
Tim K
Andrew H
They will go out today USPS. My wife had "other" thoughts about charging anything for them. I guess that's why they call her my better half. These are really so small that they all fit on a single 12" length of $12 brass, and the O-rings were literally $.03. In other words it's not worth the postage to send me anything for what they cost!
I do have a bit of a concern over the fit, not my tolerances, but Triumph often tends to have a wide variation. So please check them if you can...let me know if there are any fit issues and I'll cut a replacement to your particular specs.
Below is the instruction sheet I am sending with them. The main items that must be done to make the plug work is to smooth the valve cylinder bore with fine paper...essentially "hone" it smooth. And also use a Dremel with a ball nose to smooth the cylinder wall around the screw hole and fuel port. This is important to prevent the sharp holes from cutting the o-ring and cause a fuel leak.
Triumph TR2/3 Brass Fuel Valve Mod
Disclaimer: I am afraid that I need to add this to the instructions, just so everyone understands my position. I am not a working engineer and cannot vouch for the longevity of this mod. I can say that I have designed it to the best of my ability and do have it working on my TR2. But, it is up to you or your installer to make sure you properly install this mod and test for leakage both initially and at occasional intervals. We are dealing with gasoline! If you have any doubts, don’t use this mod, and you can keep it as a novelty. I cannot be responsible for fuel leaks since I am not doing the installation myself.
Installation is very simple.
1) Take apart your fuel valve and clean all the parts. Be certain that all are in good shape and not damaged.
2) Install the brass plug provided in place of the original cork seal. The face with the o-ring will go to the inside of the valve, or outside of the valve body, and against the brass through bolt.
3) Snug the through bolt and lock nut to hold the plug firmly. There is no need to over tighten. The o-ring will provide the seal so long as it is held snuggly.
4) Before installing the valve body back into the valve cylinder, you MUST use a small Dremel to remove burrs from both the locking screw hole and the side fuel port! This is the most important step of the installation. As the cylinder came from the factory, there are burrs on the inside of the screw and fuel port holes. I use a Dremel with a ball end to reach into the holes and round off the inside of the holes where they meet the inside of the cylinder.
5) Smooth the inside of the cylinder with fine sandpaper wrapped around a pencil erasure or similar, to ensure a good surface for the o-rings to seal against. Polishing would be even better.
6) Now you can reinstall the valve body into the cylinder. Use oil or light grease, and be certain that the o-rings do not catch on the edge of the screw hole. If they do try to hang up on the screw hole, then round the cylinder edges more with the Dremel. If the o-rings are damaged by the fuel hole, then replace with new ½” by 1/16” rings. The end o-ring is 3/8” by 1/16”. Both are readily available from Ace, or any other hardware supply.
Note: My biggest fear is that the plugs may have fit issues due to Triumphs wide tolerances. If there are any fit issues, please PM me on the forum, letting me know what did not fit and I will send a replacement plug. No need to return this one.
That’s it! Enjoy a valve that shouldn’t leak like the original cork does.
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OP
CJD
Yoda
Offline
I’ll have to measure! I am probably confusing the OD and ID.
Offline
Aha! You wanted to see if we were paying attention!
Thanks!
Thanks!
Suncoaster
Member
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Hi, John -
PM with my info just sent. Thanks so much for making the valve available to us!
You're a most talented and generous individual.
PM with my info just sent. Thanks so much for making the valve available to us!
You're a most talented and generous individual.
OP
CJD
Yoda
Offline
My fears were founded today. I’m starting to get feedback from the plugs I sent out, and it’s about even with fitting or not. Triumph’s liberal tolerances strike again. I recommend you try your plugs as soon as you can. I will re-cut to your fit if you let me know what it is...
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John,
I'll try to get around to fitting the valve this weekend (warmer weather) and let you know. What exactly are the problems being reported?
I'll try to get around to fitting the valve this weekend (warmer weather) and let you know. What exactly are the problems being reported?
OP
CJD
Yoda
Offline
It is the diameter. I think these were cast and then only minimally machined afterwards. Over the years the casting likely changed enough to make a precise fit impossible. It's all "doable", but I'll have to fit the plug to the particular casting.
Offline
John,
I won't be able to fit the new valve for a few weeks as i'm having some body work/repaint done on the TR. When I do, I will let you know how the fit is.
I won't be able to fit the new valve for a few weeks as i'm having some body work/repaint done on the TR. When I do, I will let you know how the fit is.
Jayplum
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
no problem. My 57 is in pieces in my basement and will be so for a while.
Thanks.
mgedit
Jedi Knight
Offline
Just as a point of interest, my friend the late Don Elliott had a similar solution. He gave me one of these "plungers" a few years ago (I believe a neighbour did the machining). I did assemble the valve, but by the time I did so I had already installed a generic valve on the car that was not leaking so decided to leave as is for now. Mine is a little tight to operate when dry, so perhaps it just needs a little feting to fit the o-rings a bit better. However, I suspect it might loosen up over time when in use.
Cheers, Mike
Cheers, Mike
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