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Fuel sending unit

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T

Tinster

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A minor issue with the fuel system.

I refurbished the fuel tank: the fuel level sending
unit now gives funky readings after I reinstalled it.
I can see the float below the fuel tank cap.

With 7 or 8 gallons the tank registers full on the gauge.
Very quickly the gauge falls to zero even with a half full
tank.

Any thoughts. The sender and gauge were very accurate
before I removed the sending unit to rehab the tank.

thanks,

d
 
The voltage stabilizer was the problem with my guage. A low cost replacement cured the issue.
 
Nope, that ain't the cause.

Total car rewire harness with a Dan Masters Power Block.

No voltage stabilzer in the system.

But thanks for the response.

d
 
Dale, that may be the problem. I think several of the dash gauges need to go thru the stabilizer (voltage reducer) to read properly.
 
Hello Dale,

both the temperature gauge and the fuel gauge are normally supplied with 10 Volts from the voltage stabiliser. Without one both will read high. However is the earth connected to the sender and\or is the tank earthed properly.

Alec
 
The way you LOVE to paint everything. You may have altered the ground path. Take one of the mounting bolts loose, where the tank mounts to the body, scrape a little paint of both the tank and the bracket to which it's secured to insure a good ground, then reinsert the bolt. When you removed the sending unit, did you paint the threads the retaining screws go into? If you did, might wanna tap them out so that a good ground path is restored.

If the terminal on the sending unit is secure and that doesn't resolve the problem then the next thing I would do is get one of Moss Motors new design voltage stabilizers and install it.
 
Tinster said:
Nope, that ain't the cause.

Total car rewire harness with a Dan Masters Power Block.

No voltage stabilzer in the system.

But thanks for the response.

d
Click to expand...

If you go back to the instruction manual from Dan, you will see in the wiring diagram that the gauge voltage regulator/stabilizer is there wired in before the temp and fuel gauges. I'm sure when Mike was down there he put it in.
 
pull it back out and test it in your hand. Pulling a TR6 tank is not that hard,...as you know. Don't spend a dime yet.Just some time.A 1hour job, ready set go.
 
or....yardstick... its what I have in my TR3. A secret...I also use it to put drops on my Zippo lighter wick when the bastard goes dry on me. Some people drive and eat, I drive and smoke...
 
Box and all:

It took me 1 hour and 40 minutes to diagnose-no tank pull.
Pulling the tank takes me one solid 8 hr day.

Diagnosis-I've been Pedro-ized.

1. I rewired the fuel gauge to include a voltage regulator.
2. I ran a new ground wire all the way to the engine block.

Gauge still on zero with 3/4 of a tank of fuel.

3. Reversed the wires to see if gauge was functioning

Yup! Gauge ran right up past full - put wires back.

4. Unscrewed sending unit to operate float by hand.

Full to 7/8 full position A-OK on gauge.
Below 7/8 full- gauge drops to empty.

All tests performed-
CONFIRMED PEDRO-IZATION

Another part for Tony's growing order list.

fuelSwitch.jpg
[/img]
 
well at least these last few "Pedro parts" don't cause towtrucks to be called.
Now that you can drive regularly you'll find all the fiddly little issues that weren't obvious before.
 
Yeah Ben, I expect DPO Pedro has a few piddlies to
sling at me for a while. But he's pretty much a
shadow of his former evil self. For example-My reverse
light switch on the tranny gave out today. Bummer.

Yeah Don, after market temp and amp gauges. OEM fuel
gauge so I probably should install the volt stab unit.
Funny though, it should have flickered or bounced without
the VS but it didn't.

David- Western Auto ordered me a re-built starter today
from their warehouse in the States. Paul- thanks for the
tip.

Starter at $120.
Delivery 18 pounds at $36 (fair price!)
Core charge at $20.
PR taxes at $19

total starter at $195.

Who is coming down to install the starter for me?
Anyone from Wisconsin or Idaho be needin' warming up?

d
 
For almost that cost you could have had a Hi-torque one
 
Nope, not even close. With delivery and PR taxes,
a high torque unit runs about $400.

My car is stock engine and I've sunk enough $$ for now.
I want to drive the beast for a while and spend the cash
on piddly Pedro stuff.

My engine starts instantly now, even with the bad stock
starter. Remember, my engine sits cold at 85* F. year round.

d
 
I was quoted $280 for the highT starter
$120 delivery and PR taxes.

That's $400 in my book.

How's $32 delivery for 2 valve cover gaskets
sound to ya?

$52 delivery for two front shocks?

I had 2 hand blown glass sink basins shipped 12,000
miles from China for only $50. each.

I'm getting robbed blind on TR parts delivery charges.

d
 
Dale's problem is that when he orders from someplace, then tell them he's in Puerto Rico, they deem it a "forign country" even though it might possibly get dropped off at his house by the exact same kind of white USPS trucks that deliver to the rest of us in "Da fiddy"
It's really stupid.
I figured that a starter was in the works soon. that one sounded bad every so often.
Dale. be sure to let me know if I can help with shipping anytime. I don't know what they would charge me, but you can bet I'm not gonna add any extra on top of what it actually costs.
 
Thanks Ben-

I think the $2. a pound Western Auto charged me
is reasonable for air freight fees.

d
 
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