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I was replacing the fuel pump on my tr3 today and I couldn't get the main fitting that auctually brings the gas in to the pump to fit in there right, but in the process of trying to get the fitting in I think I might have stripped the first few threads on the pump. So what could I do to fix the fuel pump? Also how do you get the gas to turn off. Any help would be great help /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
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Fuel Pump
- Thread starter TNTriumph
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Don Elliott
Obi Wan
Offline
The lever arm that rides on the cam and which drives the pump must be on the outside of the cam. It sound like you may have inserted this lever in the back of the cam.
To stop the fuel flow, tighten your vice-grips onto the rubber hose.
To stop the fuel flow, tighten your vice-grips onto the rubber hose.
jsneddon
Jedi Knight
Offline
absolutely.
of course the next question will probably be what size and pitch is it... I have no idea.
Was this the original fitting (or a replacement from the Big 3) or did it come from Parts-R-Us? I seem to recall some thread differences in these kinds of fittings on the commonly available US versions vs. the British sizes.... not sure if that applies to the fuel inlet or not though.
of course the next question will probably be what size and pitch is it... I have no idea.
Was this the original fitting (or a replacement from the Big 3) or did it come from Parts-R-Us? I seem to recall some thread differences in these kinds of fittings on the commonly available US versions vs. the British sizes.... not sure if that applies to the fuel inlet or not though.
martx-5
Yoda
Offline
[ QUOTE ]
of course the next question will probably be what size and pitch is it... I have no idea.
[/ QUOTE ]
This comes up all the time, and I often find myself needing to know "what is the thread pitch?" The diameter can be measured with a caliper...easy enough. But, to measure the pitch, the easiest way is with a thread pitch gauge. These are only a few dollars, are easy to use, and will last a lifetime. I'd recommend getting both Yankee and metric sizes. Some metric and Yankee diameters are so close, that sometimes the only way to tell which is which is with the thread gauge. I know this doesn't help you now, but in the future, having a couple of these gauges around can save a lot on guesswork and aggravation.
of course the next question will probably be what size and pitch is it... I have no idea.
[/ QUOTE ]
This comes up all the time, and I often find myself needing to know "what is the thread pitch?" The diameter can be measured with a caliper...easy enough. But, to measure the pitch, the easiest way is with a thread pitch gauge. These are only a few dollars, are easy to use, and will last a lifetime. I'd recommend getting both Yankee and metric sizes. Some metric and Yankee diameters are so close, that sometimes the only way to tell which is which is with the thread gauge. I know this doesn't help you now, but in the future, having a couple of these gauges around can save a lot on guesswork and aggravation.
Geo Hahn
Yoda
Offline
Yes, a machine shop will probably be able to dress the threads if not too bad. I wouldn't think those threads are critical (important but not critical) as the seal is achieved by the end of the line pressing home in the pump.
OTOH, pumps are pretty cheap and machine shop time can be expensive so think about how much you want to mess with it. May be worth it to you if it is an original AC pump with a priming lever -- maybe not worth the expense of repairing if it is a repro (typically w/o the priming lever).
The priming lever is a worthwhile item in my opinion and pumps are easily rebuildable to if you are looking to replace a repro, an original used pump is an alternative to think about.
Visegrips will shut the fuel off but Harbor Freight make a tool specifically to clamp hoses w/o damage (couple of bucks). I always carry one. Will even hold a brake line under full braking pressure if you ever have to drive home with one line disabled (I have).
OTOH, pumps are pretty cheap and machine shop time can be expensive so think about how much you want to mess with it. May be worth it to you if it is an original AC pump with a priming lever -- maybe not worth the expense of repairing if it is a repro (typically w/o the priming lever).
The priming lever is a worthwhile item in my opinion and pumps are easily rebuildable to if you are looking to replace a repro, an original used pump is an alternative to think about.
Visegrips will shut the fuel off but Harbor Freight make a tool specifically to clamp hoses w/o damage (couple of bucks). I always carry one. Will even hold a brake line under full braking pressure if you ever have to drive home with one line disabled (I have).
Well i just bought this pump from moss motors for like 40 bucks and I really don't want to through it out. It is weird when I would try and thread the fitting in to the fuel pump it was always like it was trying to go in sideways. Im not sure if the fitting is wrong for the pump or what but I do know for sure that the first few threads are messed up and probably need to be fixed.
jsneddon
Jedi Knight
Offline
There isn't _supposed_ to be a difference in the threads between the old and the new one.
So I'm assuming that the hard line inlet that connects to the rubber line is the original that you pulled off the old pump? I just wanted to clarify that you didn't buy a new pipe that has the wrong size threads on it and caused your trouble. If you're going to the machine shop then be sure and take the line too so they can see what's up.
If you're feeling adventurous and the old pump is the original AC with the priming lever.... it isn't that hard to take apart the new one and use all the internal parts on the old pump. Even more important than the priming lever is the cam lever - the repros are a sandwich of metal sheets whereas the original is a nice solid cast piece. There have been a couple reports of the "sandwich" falling apart and flinging catastrophic metal bits around in the camshaft.
So I'm assuming that the hard line inlet that connects to the rubber line is the original that you pulled off the old pump? I just wanted to clarify that you didn't buy a new pipe that has the wrong size threads on it and caused your trouble. If you're going to the machine shop then be sure and take the line too so they can see what's up.
If you're feeling adventurous and the old pump is the original AC with the priming lever.... it isn't that hard to take apart the new one and use all the internal parts on the old pump. Even more important than the priming lever is the cam lever - the repros are a sandwich of metal sheets whereas the original is a nice solid cast piece. There have been a couple reports of the "sandwich" falling apart and flinging catastrophic metal bits around in the camshaft.
yeah the pipe is the old one. I think what the problem was was that I was getting **** trying to screw the thing in there while gas was shooting out. For some reason it never crossed my mind to use a pair of vice grips to stop the flow. I guess that happens when you are in your garage with gas fumes for to long.
jsneddon
Jedi Knight
Offline
what I use is a cheap pair of needle-nosed pliers. Get some clear vinyl tubing that will just barely fit over the jaws. Makes an easy clamp and you don't have to worry about dinking up the hose you are clamping.
Earlier cars had a shut off valve down below that rubber tube but they seemed to be just another place for fuel to leak.
Earlier cars had a shut off valve down below that rubber tube but they seemed to be just another place for fuel to leak.