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TR6 Fuel pump


Jedi Hopeful
Ok, I would like to know the right way to remove the fuel pump? I spent about 2hrs and some cut knuckles trying to remove those 2 nuts. Also I would like to post a photo of the pump how can I do that. Thanks


Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
I've not done it on a TR6; but on TR2-4 you need the magic tool


Look closely, this shows it on one of the nuts



Country flag
I use small stuff....1/4" drive ratchet wrench,6 inch extension and what was it .....1/2 or 7/16" socket ?
Now that you have it off, clean the threads and use fresh nuts. Then you can finger tighten the nuts and just use a tool for the the final turn. Removal will be easier too.


Jedi Hopeful
Thanks guys, I going to run a die over the threads to clean them up. Get some new nuts and give it a try.


Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Is it best to use new regular nuts and lock washers, or new narrow nylok nuts, since not a lot of room on the stud for nut and lock washer? Thanks!


Country flag
I don't see why that wouldn't work if you can find nyloc jam nuts; but I still use a flat washer, a lock washer and nut.
If you need more room during installation, you can avoid pressing the pump right up against the engine which will expose just enough of the stud to get the hardware started.
Same technique is useful when mounting ZS carbs on the TR6 manifold.


Country flag
Giving that more thought...it's going to get pretty hot, right there close to the engine.
I'm not sure what temperature nylocs can withstand.


I'm not sure what temperature nylocs can withstand.

See the page linked below.

The standard material used in Nylocks is good to 250 oF. There is a higher temperature material available for special order. Since the exhaust is not near the fuel pump, and the engine should not get much hotter than the coolant, standard Nylocks should be OK for the fuel pump mount.

Nylock Spec. Link
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