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After at least two years of problems with one of my TR4As, I feel I should repeat a message I posted in a related thread. I probably already covered this, but I'm posting this additional note just in case there's some other guy out there trying everything, but still finding himself stuck in parking lots or on roadsides from time to time. I'm hoping this separate post will make the entire subject matter easier to find.
Here's the problem I had. Hard starting after driving in hot weather. SU carburetors seeming to flood, regardless of float adjustments, needle changes, and mixture adjustments. Numerous "false fixes," when suddenly (and finally) I misled myself into thinking I'd found and fixed the issue with new floats or needles and seats, or some other adjustment--only to stall again at some random, unpredictable time. Replacement ignition coils and condensers did nothing and were a waste. I was thinking that hard starts after driving were electrical problems and not fuel problems. This literally went on for about two years. I have the luxury of owning and driving other TRs, so I guess I let it all drag on too long. Also, I realize others here may be wondering how long it can be before a guy takes a hint or learns a lesson.
But here's the lesson. If you're flooding and stalling in traffic, or if you can't restart after a stop because the intake manifold has been flooding with fuel while sitting idle, or even if you have repeated starting problems when your timing and electrical are all perfect, stop and check the fuel pressure coming out of your fuel pump, and do that even if, or especially if, your pump is new.
In my case, my fuel pressure from two new fuel pumps was almost double the recommended spec. The pressure was forcing fuel right past the float needles and flooding the carburetors--and made proper mixture adjustment impossible. I installed a fuel pump pressure regulator and gauge, and I now have a car that runs great, starts great, isn't stalling in rush hour traffic, isn't flooding, and that is fun to drive again. I also won't need to be hiding my face from the neighbors while being towed back home real soon.
So, if ever relevant, check your fuel pressure and see if a regulator is needed. For a TR4A, you could use a standard Holley Non-Return regulator in the low range of 1 to 6 PSI and set it more like 2.0. If the pump you have is already at spec, between 1.25 and 2.5 psi, you're good.
Hope that helps someone one day.
Here's the problem I had. Hard starting after driving in hot weather. SU carburetors seeming to flood, regardless of float adjustments, needle changes, and mixture adjustments. Numerous "false fixes," when suddenly (and finally) I misled myself into thinking I'd found and fixed the issue with new floats or needles and seats, or some other adjustment--only to stall again at some random, unpredictable time. Replacement ignition coils and condensers did nothing and were a waste. I was thinking that hard starts after driving were electrical problems and not fuel problems. This literally went on for about two years. I have the luxury of owning and driving other TRs, so I guess I let it all drag on too long. Also, I realize others here may be wondering how long it can be before a guy takes a hint or learns a lesson.
But here's the lesson. If you're flooding and stalling in traffic, or if you can't restart after a stop because the intake manifold has been flooding with fuel while sitting idle, or even if you have repeated starting problems when your timing and electrical are all perfect, stop and check the fuel pressure coming out of your fuel pump, and do that even if, or especially if, your pump is new.
In my case, my fuel pressure from two new fuel pumps was almost double the recommended spec. The pressure was forcing fuel right past the float needles and flooding the carburetors--and made proper mixture adjustment impossible. I installed a fuel pump pressure regulator and gauge, and I now have a car that runs great, starts great, isn't stalling in rush hour traffic, isn't flooding, and that is fun to drive again. I also won't need to be hiding my face from the neighbors while being towed back home real soon.
So, if ever relevant, check your fuel pressure and see if a regulator is needed. For a TR4A, you could use a standard Holley Non-Return regulator in the low range of 1 to 6 PSI and set it more like 2.0. If the pump you have is already at spec, between 1.25 and 2.5 psi, you're good.
Hope that helps someone one day.
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