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Fuel Pump- Part 3

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Tinster

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OK- This morning I very carefully took
Paul's beautiful rebuilt OEM mechanical pump
apart. I photoed every step.

Nothing inside, clean as a whistle, screens clean,
diaphram fine, nothing remarkable.........

Except I noticed 2 of the six body screws (side by side)
appear to have vibrated loose and I could remove them
with my fingers. The other four required a screwdriver.

I'm guessing this condition might allow some air to get
pulled inside during the suction cycle? This might account
for the trickle of gasoline?

Any thoughts?

I'm putting Paul's pump back together.

thanks,

dale
 
Paul's pump is back together and installed.

Now pumping plenty of gasoline.

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<,

The engine falls apart and stumbles badly
at any rpm over 1500. Not streetable at all.

So I'm guessing it's time to replace the ignition
system as well.

I've got well over 900 miles on the Lucas Sport coil.
I'll install a new coil and see if that corrects the problem.

d :wall: :wall: :wall: :frown: :cry:
 
Just a thought; since you've been chasing fuel system gremlins and the ignition was fine before ... why not start by looking for something restricting fuel delivery between the pump and actual carb jets. I mean, its possible the ignition just chose this moment to develop a strange problem; but with all this messing with fuel system it just seems more likely that a piece of crud, or bad gas, or water or something has found it's way into a float valve or bowl or jet.
 
Dale Don't take the ignition apart!!!!!!!!!!!
As many different people have noted, you seem to have something blocking the fuel line intermittently. I would guess either one of the rubber hoses or a bit of crude got from that nasty gas got stuck somewhere in the fuel line.

Do you have a compressor? you could unhook both ends of the fuel line (gas tank / pump) and blow them out and see if anything comes out.
 
How many BCF member's have tried to fix this car in person? Maybe it's just not fixable? I believe that there really are bad cars in any make and model. Perhaps this is the TR6 one.

.
 
On my TR3A, the fuel pump has 6 screws holding the top to the bottom. I stripped the threads in two of the holes in the lower aluminium housing. So I bought two small "C" clamps for a buck each and sealed it so it wouldn't leak gas anymore. At the time, 1992, I was in Cambridge, Ohio. When I got home, I bought two longer screws and put a lock washer and a nut on the bottom and it's been fine ever since. And no VTR or TRA concours judge can see this non-conformity because it's hidden below the pump.
 
Stirkle said:
I believe that there really are bad cars in any make and model. Perhaps this is the TR6 one.

.
Click to expand...

<span style="color: #990000">Ah Stirkle- ever the wise sage.
And I'm with you but I believe there really ARE bad people
in any race or creed. Perhaps you are one.

d :savewave: </span>
 
Dale,

I wouldn't go in the ignition direction at this time. If you now have fuel at the filter, but are breaking up above 1,500RPMS, perhaps it's time to insure that you are actually getting that fuel into the carbs.
 
Don Elliott said:
And no VTR or TRA concours judge can see this non-conformity because it's hidden below the pump.
Click to expand...
That sounded like a Dare !

Darrell, are you listening ?
grin.gif
:jester:
grin.gif


BTW, they do make Heli-coils that will fit those screws. Don's solution is a lot cheaper and easier, though.
 
Brosky said:
Dale,

I wouldn't go in the ignition direction at this time. If you now have fuel at the filter, but are breaking up above 1,500RPMS, perhaps it's time to insure that you are actually getting that fuel into the carbs.
Click to expand...

<span style="color: #CC0000">Yup Paul, even with what little I know of these cars,
I am in agreement with you. I'll yank the carbs and see if anything
was lingering inside that I might have missed when I cleaned them
last go-around.

d </span>
 
What about any blockage or filtration AHEAD of the carbs?
 
Paul-

Brand new hoses, flushed with carb cleaner spray,
plus they are short enough I could see daylight end to end.
(When installed 110 miles ago.) I'll pull them apart
and check them again when I get the carbs off.

Really humid today- something must have happened
in the States that involved a bunch of rain,
a few days back. Withering humidity today.

d
 
Tinster said:
Really humid today- something must have happened
in the States that involved a bunch of rain,
a few days back. Withering humidity today.

d
Click to expand...

Still happening, you could be humid for a while. :nopity:
 
Dale, could you also check the hoses and lines from the tank?

Reassure us that there are no kinked metal tubing or rubber hose, reassure us that the hoses/tubing blows through, flows, cleanly... Gotta get to the pump before it can be pumped..
 
RonMacPherson said:
Dale, could you also check the hoses and lines from the tank?

Reassure us that there are no kinked metal tubing or rubber hose, reassure us that the hoses/tubing blows through, flows, cleanly... Gotta get to the pump before it can be pumped..
Click to expand...

<span style="color: #990000">Hey Cuz!

Checked the tank to steel line hoses yesterday- AOK
Slid the steel pipe to inflow hose off the pump this
morning and gravity flow brought mucha gasolina all
over my garage floor. Nice even flow, I might add.

Pump to glass cylinder hose new yesterday. Sprayed
carb cleaner thru it before install.

Carb hoses pulled an hour ago, can see daylight end
to end. Sprayed carb cleaner thru them- nothing
came out.

I think we are good/clean from tank to individual carbs.

later gator,

d</span>
 
Well OK!!!

The carbs are off the car and the bowls removed.
No crud observed; nice and clean like they were
110 miles ago. Floats move easily, both are filled
with air. Float fuel valves both work smoothly.
Carb cleaner spray brought no crud out.

I don't know how to get inside where the needle slides
down into. But I did spray carb cleaner into the needle
openings. The pistons the needles in both move properly.
Oil levels are right on correct in both carbs.

I sprayed carb cleaner into the brass piece that centers
the bowls. I got a bit of red/brown color from both.
I suspect there is more inside.

How are these brass pieces removed?? Maybe the problem
lies inside??

Thanks,

dale

carbBowl.jpg
 
If it does end up being junk in the carbs, you might want to blow air backward through the lines, and then install (at least temporarily) filters (a) directly after the tank, and (b) before the carbs, so you can confirm whether it's still coming from somewhere... Easier to replace a filter than to strip & clean your carbs every time it gets gummed up! :wink:
 
Tinster said:
How are these brass pieces removed?? Maybe the problem
lies inside??
Click to expand...
The big brass piece in your photo should just unscrew, using that whopping great slot on the bottom of it.

THe smaller tube visible in the photo, as well as the one exposed when you remove the big one are pressed in and should not be disturbed (just blow carb cleaner through them).

Don't forget the float valve in the upper RH of your photo. Hopefully yours can be disassembled and cleaned; but the ones on my Stag could not and had to be replaced.
 
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